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Discussion Starter #1
My father gifted me his '83 GL650I, which has sat unused pretty much since 1998. I am just starting the process of restoring the bike (successfully cleaned the carbs and got the engine to start), but I've run into a snag. I replaced the old battery with a 12-volt AGM, but the new battery died on me after a few cranks. I trickle-charged the battery (outside the bike), then after connecting the positive cable, I got a spark and the starter engaged when I touched the negative cable. (Needless to say, I have not actually connected the negative.) Not sure where to start on the diagnosis and repair of this problem.

Thoughts from the experts?!

Thanks,
TP
 

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It sounds as if the starter solenoid has stuck in the 'operated' position.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, both. The key was in the off position, so I'll investigate the solenoid. I saw a link on this Forum about a solenoid with a built in blade fuse. Can that replace the main fuse (as I cracked both F links -- original and "spare" -- when inspecting the main)? I'm excited to do the main fuse mod but won't do it since I'm replacing the solenoid anyway.
 

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I bought a couple of the cheap ones but when I posted about them on Naked GoldWings I was told that they were unreliable. (I should mention that I was one of the first to replace the original "dogbone" fuse with a fuse in a holder; That was back in the '90s before blade fuses were common so I used a glass tube type. ) By thenI had bumped a wire on the blade fuse holder and broken the ring lug and installed the eBay special. It seemed to work OK for me but I had another problem a couple of weeks later and fixed & re-installed the old one in the process of troubleshooting so I can't say how well it would have lasted.
 

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I should mention that the guys on NGW recommended using a CBR600 solenoid. From the photos of them online the only difference between the ones i bought and the CBR unit is the price but they could be better inside...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, I did the main fuse mod last night, reconnected everything, and did not have the "stuck starter" issue. In fact, after a few attempts, she fired up! I may replace the solenoid anyway, but for now it looks like I'm over the hump.

I need to replace all of the fluids and other such maintenance, but it looks like, after 20 years in the back shed, my dad's old bike remembers what it is to run.

Any tips or suggestions for taking a bike out of long-term storage would be much appreciated. . .
 

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Any tips or suggestions for taking a bike out of long-term storage would be much appreciated. . .
New tyres for starters. You don't really want to be riding round on them if they are 20+ years old...
You have the new battery, so now new oil (+filter), coolant, brake fluid. Before you change the brake fluid, you might check to see if the brake master cylinder is all corroded up (quite likely), and the calipers might be too (as they've been unused for 20 years), so it's worth stripping/rebuilding them - provided you know what you are doing.
Check the air filter, as that might be mucky too, and replace if doubtful about its condition - a clogged filter will often cause poor running, even if everything else is OK. Lubricate all cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, guys, for the help!

Do you recommend a Haynes manual for a novice like me? I am comfortable around tools and basic mechanic work, but none of this will be done without "guidance."
 

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Haynes is good. Before forums like this it was the only way to learn how to make some of the special tools yourself instead of paying big $$ and waiting for them to arrive :D But download the FSM too. You will find that the more you do the more you use the FSM. I have all 3 but I always refer to the FSM first and the others if i need clarification.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the tip, gents. i got the FSM but will probably wait until I have the Haynes before starting the major work.

Question: I inspected the tires, and they look great! Seriously, really good. Is there a way to test for unseen/non-obvious wear/breakdown, etc. I note that the bike has less than 5000 miles on it, which may account for the good condition of the tires.
 

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As you drive down the road the rubber of the tire flows around the irregularities of the pavement to grip it. As tires age they loose their ability to flow like that and one day you will be leaned over for a turn and it will slide out from under you.

6 years is about the limit for tire age on a bike that leans and 10 years is pretty much the oldest you would want on a sidecar outfit.

How to determine when a tire was made
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bob, I'm going to owe you tuition before I'm done. . .

Thanks.
 

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As rubber ages and goes through heat cycles it get harder (durometer) and looses it's flex which also causes it to lose grip with the road surface.
 
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