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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my way home the bike did not go back to 1100 rpm but stayed at about 3 to 4k at a stop light. I checked the throttle and it's connection all work fine. Checked choke operation and it is working. I checked for intake air leak to carbs and checked connections (can not see or hear loose connection or air).



Anything thing like this happen to you?Any ideas of what to try next?
 

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this is what happened to me while re-installing my carbs... well after I RE-reversed the Throttle pull and close cables to their proper places
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I am not sure which one affected the, but my cable stop nuts were all loose as I had not done the required checking myself twice procedure.



I thought my choke cable had pulled out of it's stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shep,

I checked the A and B cables with engine off and they work fine, they move and return the round part they connect with very well. I can not find a binding problem. That is why I was looking for air leak (boots). I am not having luck there either. with air leak I should have a start problem which I don't.
 

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Shep,

I checked the A and B cables with engine off and they work fine, they move and return the round part they connect with very well. I can not find a binding problem. That is why I was looking for air leak (boots). I am not having luck there either. with air leak I should have a start problem which I don't.


Loose 10mm lock nut on the A Pull cable at the carb?



As for boot leak,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=110



Also had a thought.I suppose it could be a stuck Advance and retard
 

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any recent work done lately to your bike?



disconect both throttle cables,mmm yep choke as well.....whats your idle now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First light, I shall 1) do 10 mm A cable nut at the carb; 2) do Shep's air leak boot test; 3) disconnect A/B cables and choke cable and see if it idles.

Will let you know outcome.
 

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First light, I shall 1) do 10 mm A cable nut at the carb; 2) do Shep's air leak boot test; 3) disconnect A/B cables and choke cable and see if it idles.

Will let you know outcome.
simple system.disconnect all cables.problem still exists,its the carbs at fault.[or something that needs digging into]

put your cables on one at a time....
 

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I had a similar problem last year, but it wound up being my own doing. Carbs were out of sync, so it would idle fast, I was feathering the clutch or turning it off at red lights!



Sync'd the carbs and all was much better!
 

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lubricate all the kinkages - probably binding up somewhere...cables can return properly but wiggle them and see what happens.



anyone also played with your idle adjustment - just to piss you off ??



 

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Not too long ago I ran out of gas. After a trek to the nearest gas station, etc, I put some gas in the tank it started up right up but idled at a lofty 5K. I thought WTF, what did I buy--jet fuel? After investigation, it turned out to be a throttle cable locknut that had vibrated loose and prevented the carbs from returning to idle position. Just a coincidence that the two events happened at the same time. I hope the solution to your problem is as simple as this was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, the results are in.



Turns out that what was causing the problem was that the throttle was not stopped by the top of the idle adjustment screw put was stuck to the threads of the screw.



It was a slight misalignment (from last remove and cleaning) of the carbs. The chances of this waiting months to get stuck will cause me to buy a lotto ticket.



Thanks for walking me through this strange problem.
 
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