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Can't remember if I asked here, but is there something to put on a pinstripe decal that is lifting from the edges to help it lay down so you can glue it or seal it?
 

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What mark do you speak of?
Most tires have a mark stamped on the sidewall (AKA "balance dot") where the lightest point is. It can be a white or yellow dot, a circle or even a number (the Shinko 240 I installed recently says "0.3"). Since the valve assembly (or the part of the inner tube near the valve if you use tubes) is heaver than the small amount of metal missing for the hole it goes through, it is assumed that the valve stem location will normally be the heavy point on the wheel so you put the dot next to the stem so that the tire's light spot and the wheel's heavy spot cancel each other out.

BTW: If you have tubeless tires and have rubber valve stems you should always replace the stems when replacing the tires, especially if you don't know how old the stems are (I've seen them get hard enough to crack and leak). If you have tubeless tires and "permanent" metal valve stems it isn't a bad idea to replace the rubber seals in them periodically.
If you use tube type tires you should replace the tubes if you don't know how old they are and then at least every couple of tire changes.
 

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Can't remember if I asked here, but is there something to put on a pinstripe decal that is lifting from the edges to help it lay down so you can glue it or seal it?
Maybe careful application of a heat gun to soften it and coax it to curl in? Not sure what adhesive to use after that. Auto parts store might have some sort of badge cement, if it's not too thick.
 

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It depends on what material the pinstripe is. You might try thinning a bit of contact cement (usually mineral spirits will do), applying it to the back of the stripe, transferring some to the surface by pressing the strpe into place gently, then pulling it back off and letting the cement dry before pressing it down firmly.

FWIW, the stripes on my GoldWing are pinstripe tape and I used a heat gun to warm the surfaces I applied them to so they would conform to the surface better. Over time they have lifted in a few places (usually where they cross convex surfaces like the edges of the side covers) and when this happens dirt usually ends up stuck to the adhesive before I notice the lift so I end up replacing a section of the tape. (It might have stayed stuck if I'd clear coated but that makes touch ups harder and I used to drive on gravel a lot.)
 

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Maybe careful application of a heat gun to soften it and coax it to curl in? Not sure what adhesive to use after that. Auto parts store might have some sort of badge cement, if it it's too thick.
Thanks Randall. I have a paint stripper heat gun I use making pottery. I wonded if acetone or if some other solvent would work/ Experiment!
 

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Thanks folks, gentle heat it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Welp, I ended up getting the tires done professionally this time around, but will build an apparatus to break the bead for my next bike. I am looking I to getting a Dual Sport next season, so probably a good skill to have.

So, on Sunday, I jacked the bike up and removed the front and back wheels, loaded them into the truck and took them and the new tires over to the shop on Tuesday morning.
201432

I was unable to remove the front axle from the wheel, and I tried everything, even going trough a couple of tanks of air (21 gallon) with my impact driver. Nothing was getting it off. Even the shop couldn't get the axle off. But, they balanced it the best they could.

I gotta say, allowing the shop to do this allowed me to discover that they are also a motorcycle recycler. They happened to have disassembled a wrecked '82 Silverwing Interstate. I forgot that I needed to replace my bent rear brake pedal, and I was able to pick it up from the. Also, they had a box of rear view mirrors. $3 each, or 2 for $5. Two of the mirrors were Honda mirrors. My right mirror had some minor rash on it, but the mirror itself was slightly convex, which allowed it to be a magnifier more than a mirror, so I was glad they had them. That, and the stems were a couple of inches longer than the Silverwing mirrors I had, so probably from a different Honda model, around the same era. These couple of extra inches allows me the position the mirrors to view completely past my arms, and gives me much better visibility, so I am glad I got them as well.
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Today, I mounted the wheels, new mirrors and rear brake pedal. Cleaned her up, and took it on the first 17 miles this bike has had since I owned it.
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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
I do have one question though...

Is it normal for the bike to be revving at 3800 RPMs at 35mph in 4th gear? Maybe it's just me, but that seems high. Of course, my Vulcan 1700, at 60mph in 5th gear is revving just a hair over idle, so maybe that's just what I am used to.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thanks Randall. I guess I just need to get used to it.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I found someone 50-miles from me selling a few motorcycle seats, and this one came up for $50
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So I drove over there and picked it up.

The cowl has a couple of cracks in it, but I figure some epoxy and some plastic reinforcements should take care of that. I'm not great at painting, so I think I will just sand it down and paint it black. I did that on my last silverwing (funny enough, the one I got for my red Silverwing was silver), and it looked just fine.
201463


Dan
 

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Plastifix works wonders
I bought a new seat from Paul @april2007. I cracked and broke chunks out of the old one. Thanks for the Plastifix advice. I want to repair it so someone else can use it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I couldn't find any Plastifix locally (I think I will order some to keep it on hand though), and I was hoping to get this project done over the weekend, so I purchased some of this stuff:
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I prepared the surface, scrubbed the entire cowl and scraped away the area to roughen it up. I also purchased a clock for the garage today, and the little plastic think that keeps the clock on the package was warped to the point where it matched the curvature of the inside of the cowl, so I stuck it on there for extra reinforcement.
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The Honda logo got some fresh decal adhesive too
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Discussion Starter #78
Then, removed the pinstripe with my heat gun and some Goo Gone. Then I sanded the surface down really good, then applied two coats of primer then two coats of matte black Rustoleum for plastic. I gave it a few hours to dry, and cleaned up the seat and grab hand;e in the meantime. Once I put the cowl on the seat and added the Honda logo, I placed it on the bike. I love that look so much better than the trunk.
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I would have preferred this in Silver, but I know I never would have matched the paint, and my paint skills are lacking, so I decided to make it match the seats. I did this with my first bike, and didn't mind it, so I decided to do the same. If I ever find a cowl in silver, I'll purchase that and sell this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
While I was waiting on the cowl to try, I really wanted to mount the trim piece for the horns. I was never able to locate the bracket, but I had some aluminum bar stock in my shop, so I made a crude, but workable bracket, which I gave me an end result better than looking at the horn brackets and wires.
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It's not perfect, but it'll do for now. I want to pick up a sheet of thicker aluminum and make a better bracket out of it, but the trim hides it all, and I think it makes the bike look much better.

I also raised the handlebars a little more to make riding the bike a bit more comfortable. I am still considering swapping the bars though. I saw a set of 1978 CB750 bars that I like. It looks like it'll give me the same height, but I think my hand position will be much more familiar, and it looks like I won't have to change any of the cables.

Dan
 
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