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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed all nuts and screws but can't get the cup to budge.Any ideas?I will probably have to replace it.Thanx,Mike
 

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Mike, are you referring to the rubber cup that the starter solenoid sits in? It just pulls straight out from the metal bracket - there is no hardware holding it in place. I'm not sure what you mean.



 

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Do you mean the older round type solenoid?

No need to fiddle with yer nuts


To open it up remove the two screws

(blue arrows)

Unclip the cable from the brace

(yellow arrow)

Cut the outer sleeving back to allow you to feed the yellow/red and green/red wires

through the black plastic top section as you withdraw the 'cup'



Having said that, your options are limited when its opened up

and there's a test you can ( should?) do first.

The resistance between the Y/R and G/R wires should be about 3.5 ohms

if you get a dead short or significantly higher readings then the coil may be knackered and you'll need a new one



just opened one of mine to show you

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the replies.This is the older solenoid like the pictures in the second reply.

the resistance check produces no reading on the tester.It just stays at 1,which is where it is before testing.I think a new one is in order.I seen them on Ebay at $23.I shall attempt to find a local source first.

Thanks again for the help!Mike
 

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touch the multimeter probes together - what reading do you get?

if you get a "1" then you might need a new meter -but check your cables first - maybe even a new battery in it ?
 

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Try hooking 12 volts to the two small wires and see if the solenoid snaps when you make contact. If it does, you should be able to renew the internal contacts. The center contactor bar can be removed and turned upside down to present a new surface. The two battery contacts can be removed, dressed and positions swapped. That should give you another few years of use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have not been able to stay on this project consistently timewise.The Solenoid on this 1981 GL500 is similar to the second one pictured but not identical.The metal "cup" cannot be removed from the top which is plastic.There are not 2 wires as in picture two.

The resistance readout does not change from the 1 when read between g/r and y/r wires.

When the start button is pressed the solenoid clicks but the output voltage to the "motor" wire (starter) reads about .25 volts.

The starter works fine when the solenoid is bypassed.

I guess the solenoid is therefore defective.

Thank you all for your reading this and being patient,Mike
 
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