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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(late night edit!)If anyone could tell me if out ignition switches interchange with another bike(the GL's look the same?)please let me know. Mine is shot and in need of replacement. If that doesn't work out, is there some cliffsnotes on what goes where to by pass it? Dang it, i'm going to enjoy the fall one way or another...







Bike went down in the driveway. Bars, front signals and whatnot are being replaced. I've decided to go that race-y feeling i've wanted to go for, not quite cafe,but speedy lookin'. I've got much lower and narrower bars on there now(still waiting on my new bar-end mirrors and turn signals)and i'm considering other stuff to do. One thing that gets me constantly is peg/foot clearance when i'm out having fun. I'm considering moving the pegs up and back a bit using a waterblasted or cut piece of plate that would use the already exsisting peg mount style on the '78(the one bolt, and frame support), but also using the larger horizontal swing arm frame tube that's a bit up and back from the current mount to brace a relocation plate. This in theory should allow for that single mounting bolt to still hold. After that my choice of aftermarket pegs and setups are much higher, but so is my ground clearance! I don't think the move would be so much that it would require a funky, multi-linkage shifter, but instead one that is just properly bent or fabricated. I'm sure the break lever could also easly be modified for this.





Has anyone tried this before? Sometimes i'm not sure if i'm talking gibberish and no one gets what i'm saying or not. But yeah, it would be giving the bike more of a sportbike riding position, and a lot more peg/ground clearance.



NOW WITH ADDED, PROBABLY NOT AT ALL HELPFUL GRAPHIC MADE IN MSPAINT!



Sorry for the horrific quality.



Imagine the red filled in area is the stock 78 peg bracket(the round circle on the bottom being the peg, and the round circle on top the mounting bolt), and this would give you an idea of the new position i was looking at. At that, it's a bit drastic, and i would probably move that down and forward about an inch. The bit part of the idea was using that swingarm tube(the external part, not the nut or anything)as a bracing area for the plate.









Another idea, this time i would use some sort of sportbike peg or non-drop style that just bolt on, represented by the red circle.



 

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I just bought a GL ignition switch "base" that's the white nylon part They make two basic, either the five blade prongs or the six bladed. My CX500 1978 has six blades. It was $11.00 from the bay. The entire switch with two keys can be had for just $35.00 from EMGO.

I'm also going to do the reatset conversion I have some used auction sourced R1 foot controls, it shouldn't be too difficult to do just going through the fussing and welding. I'll just make a Z shaped extended shift lever. no fancy linkage. I'm going to weld on some fabricated brackets on the "C" shaped engine mounts to bolt the aluminum R1 brackets to. On the brake side I want to convert to a hydraulic disc brake this will be alot more work. I've got the matching foot controls and brake M/C and caliper. I have machined off the brake drum, now to make the adaptor part. This will be the hard part, money and machine work. I also think the side stand will have to be moved to another location? See how it goes one thing leads to another.

Cheers, 50gary
 

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50gary, you need a build thread. That's some stuff that a lot of people would be interested in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
50gary, you need a build thread. That's some stuff that a lot of people would be interested in.




Agreed, you should have a build thread on this. Personally i was sticking with more of an old, rat-bike look, so i was considering making my brackets from raw, proper grade aluminum, give them an old hand finished look(cause i would be doing it mostly by hand, anyway.



Have you considered the weight of the shifter, as well? This is something that bothers me seeing as the roads here aren't the best, i wonder if a good bump would be enough to drop a gear....
 

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I've gone to lower bars on a couple 750's. finding, making proper length brake, throttle and clutch cables have been the PIA issue. Speedo Gonna be an issue on the CX as well. Last one (93 750 nhawk) I also welded a small exstension on the steering stops on the steering tube to keep the bars from banging the tank... Ironically, I just went to stock bars on My CX. The PO put on low bars without shortning the cables. It was the work of a real "Artist". the controls were baggy snd the clutch could not be adjusted correctly.



I have also added about five pounds of shot inside of bars as vibe dampeners and this seems to work for me.



Here in Cajun Country, we make rat pegs out of railroad spikes... and throw away our speed "thermometers".



from your pics... one sugg. I'd lube and check that swingarm pivot bolt.



J
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've gone to lower bars on a couple 750's. finding, making proper length brake, throttle and clutch cables have been the PIA issue. Speedo Gonna be an issue on the CX as well. Last one (93 750 nhawk) I also welded a small exstension on the steering stops on the steering tube to keep the bars from banging the tank... Ironically, I just went to stock bars on My CX. The PO put on low bars without shortning the cables. It was the work of a real "Artist". the controls were baggy snd the clutch could not be adjusted correctly.



I have also added about five pounds of shot inside of bars as vibe dampeners and this seems to work for me.



Here in Cajun Country, we make rat pegs out of railroad spikes... and throw away our speed "thermometers".



from your pics... one sugg. I'd lube and check that swingarm pivot bolt.



J


You know, i thought the cable thign was going to be an issue, too. Turns out? Not really. Last night i rerouted them around a bit, and the clutch cable was the worst. I do intend to replace that one. But looks like i'll get away with the throttle cables, brakes and speedo. But i'm at what is probably the limit. Anything more in any other setup, and they would all be way too long.



I was able to confirm the speed with GPS and a friend following me on his bike. We'll just say it's, well "accurate to a perfectly sane, and wholly legal" limit






The clutch cable is about 3-4" too long now. I was able to gently reroute this under the gas tank in a gentle loop, and give it a bit of adjustment and it's working just fine. A shorter one is necessary as, i don't expect this cable to work very well say, next spring when i take it out of storage.









Here's what she looks like with the bars on. Still waitin' on my mirror and turn signals. The stockers are going, as is the position, i've decided to go with some handlebar mounted ones. I'm not sure if this will lead me to remove the headlight bezzel and modify that, or maybe just find/make a cafe style fairing, i'll have to decide how i like 'em when they get here.



The winter is going to give me a good excuse to pop the engine and refurbish the frame. and probably find many many more ways to take all my money. and put it in to this funny old bike i like so much. But it'll be mine, one of a kind, *and* a CX! Take that, established motorcycle communities!
 

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The winter is going to give me a good excuse to pop the engine and refurbish the frame. and probably find many many more ways to take all my money. and put it in to this funny old bike i like so much. But it'll be mine, one of a kind, *and* a CX! Take that, established motorcycle communities!


Same here.
 
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