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Discussion Starter #241
Ross,

Thanks for sharing your build pics with us, its much appreciated. One thing i did notice on the pic of the wire routing through the handlebars, it was not deburred sufficiently to not cause chafing of the insulation on the wires down the road and causing electrical gremlins. The edges of the slot through the handlebar (inside and outside) need to be broken/eased/deburred so there is no sharp edges left. You may have done this already, just wasn't shown in a pic. Rock on ?

Cheers
D fresh, i was a bit lazy, now you mention it i will go back and deburr it. I plan to swap in new handlebars later and my approach would be to drill the hole in one go with a larger drill bit and then insert some cheap rubber grommets!
 

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Discussion Starter #242
200215

Current problem is removing the bleed nipple to open rhs caliper to reattach to rotor. I have 2 spare new nipples but i will have to try again to bleed lhs to open the rhs caliper or try the easy out again but it certainly wasnt easy trying the first time!
 

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Discussion Starter #243
200216

Current wiring is all attached to the right places but i will go get some more zipties, waterproof box for the m unit, cable grometts, crimp terminals, new wire and tidy up the excess lengths I have. Not a fan of cutting the m buttons wires in case of later modifications but will give it some time thinking about.
200217

Anyway, about two or three days away from attempting to start. Working from home i can luckily claim it as professional development hahaha perks of a goverment job!
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Trying to get the engine into the frame. While doing so I had the final drive started, got the bottom long 17mm bolt through and one of the top two hangers in and was trying to see if the final drive had more room to go into the universal joint.
200309

After i gently rolled the rear wheel to see how tight the joint was (which i had been doing the whole time and had no problems) i heard a loud pop/crack sound. Now the rear wheel, universal joint and final drive spline dont want to turnmore than 6mm or so. I can hear some thing hitting and stopping it in the rear engine cover. However when I turn the crank manually from the front the rotor(?) with the timing marks spins freely. What have i done? I tried actuating the clutch but it feels like the gear selector is not changing gears...

Any help greatly appreciated!
 

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Just grease those splines, and jiggle it on. It should go with a little persistence.
Of course, you'll need to disconnect that again to replace the torn boot.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #248
Just grease those splines, and jiggle it on. It should go with a little persistence.
Of course, you'll need to disconnect that again to replace the torn boot.

Randall
Yeah i actually have a boot on order from uk that hasnt arrived yet. Will try disconnect, grease and reconnect. You dont think there is anything broken given the spline side is not moving? Thanks for replying!
 

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Could be.
It might be that the shaft is wedged inside the swing arm because the u-joint isn't aligned. Get them separated, and see if things start to move freely again.
 

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I can see in the photo that the prop shaft has been hammered off of the engine's final shaft before. If it needs persuasion again, try using a large, flat-ended pin punch (sometimes mistakenly called a drift punch.)
 

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Discussion Starter #251
I can see in the photo that the prop shaft has been hammered off of the engine's final shaft before. If it needs persuasion again, try using a large, flat-ended pin punch (sometimes mistakenly called a drift punch.)
Randall can you explain this to me some more? I don't understand what you mean by prop shaft and engine final drive shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #252
Okay i have taken it off and it is rotating now. I think there is a gear reduction which was making me think there was no movement. Hope so anyway 🙏
 

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The final shaft is the one that exits the back of the engine. The propeller shaft is what we commonly refer to as the driveshaft (I believe the term goes back at least to the 1923 BMW R32)

Where I come from a drift is a blunt ended tool used for driving things out and a punch is a pointed tool used for marking things. I have no idea what a drift punch would be. Maybe related to a screw nail?
 

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The piece with the visible splines, that's so dry and rusty that nothing will slide on it, is what Honda calls the final shaft. The part through the right-hand side of the swing arm Honda calls the propeller shaft. (I thought "driveshaft" was just an Americanism.)
With the connection only partially made, the u-joint is about a inch behind the pivot axis of the swing arm. If it's in contact with the top of the tunnel in the swing arm, it could be prevented from turning.
Your idea of removing the shocks is kind of on the right track, but I suspect that's more work than needed. But you might need to do that, if you can't push the prop shaft off the final shaft.
 

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Where I come from a drift is a blunt ended tool used for driving things out and a punch is a pointed tool used for marking things. I have no idea what a drift punch would be. Maybe related to a screw nail?
A drift pin is a tapered punch used by structural steel erectors to align holes before bolting or riveting. It's rounded on tip. It's only application here might be to align the holes in the frame when remounting an engine.
The straight-sided, blunt-ended tools in our tool chests are pin punches.
 

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I don't get the issue here.

All I've ever used to refit the shaft is a modified long allen key.

I just put the short end in the bolt hole and drag the shaft forward and onto the output shaft..

The shaft when pushed back actually has the pinion fall behind the gear in the final drive. This will prevent it from pulling forward if this is the case.

Some manipulation and the pulling of the right faces tends to remedy this. Rotate the rear wheel if you need to and put the engine in gear so you aren't chasing a rotating output shaft while trying to fit the shaft.
 

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Now that is an Americanism. To the rest of the world a punch is used for punching marks or dimples into the part.

What you called a drift pin sounds a lot like the tapered end of a mechanic's pry bar.
 

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