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Discussion Starter #221
Continuing the rear cover removal initial photos,
199937
199938

Plenty of black sludge i dragged out of the case ?? i am glad to have the nitrile gloves on hand literally.
199939

I believe this is the rear of the flywheel/rotor (?) Starting to forget already.
199941

So after removing the cover plate I reached the business end of the bypass. You can clearly see where the chain was eating into the casing, vlaidating the effort to replace the chain with new?. How long would the chain be expected to last? Any cx gods able to give a km estimate?
199942

One of the guides...and the other
199943

I didnt replace these so if anyone thinks I should have please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #222
The chain removal and replacement was not easy! Very tight fit (which is good for the bike i suppose hahaha)
199945

After removing the mech seal I was very pleasantly surprised to find I did not need to reem out the engine recess it sat in! I dont know why, perhaps a previous owner did it. Anyway it was able to fit the new aftermarket seal i purchased, measuring at 28.3mm approximately.
199947

So being saved that worry I installed the new one as per the motofaction guide which was again invaluable ???
199949
 

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Discussion Starter #223
So continuing with the bypass,
199951

I made sure the weep hole was clear with a small wire.
199952

Lining the markings up was very difficult, i used a few rulers but a laser line would have been much better!
I found I would get tired through the process and with important times like lining this up it was better to take a break and come back refreshed. I had no workbench or quality tools so it was mostly dead eyeing it which required a lot of patience as i double checked, checked a third time and then a fourth because as I understand it, the engine is an interference fit which is damaged if assembled incorrectly.?
199955

Here is the bolt and socket setup i used to push the mech seal into place. Mine had blue sealant on the actual seal handily.
199956
199957
 

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Discussion Starter #224
Continuing the bypass...
199958

You can see its blue sealant squishing out under the tight fit.
199960

The impellor took ages of cleaning with my basic brass brush ?
199961

This is just before reassembly with the new parts and orings.
The gaskets were cleaned off with brass brush and contact cleaner. It took for freaking ever! Apparently workshops have hot spray machines designed to do it very quickly. Anyway done now.
199963

This is a photo of me learning how to use a torque wrench ??‍♂ Then i learnt not to try use two helicoils in one hole hahahaha much pain and time later i had it all drilled out, retapped and one helicoil sufficed to fix.
Again an excellent lesson learnt. Hahaha when i saw the second helicoil was just coiling inside the first i was like OMG ? how the freak will i fix this...
199965
heres the oil orrifice jet i replaced?
199966

I believe this is the tacho drive housing and im not sure what else its for. My helical gear drive was in good condition.
199968
 

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Discussion Starter #225
Continuing the bypass
199976

Replaced the thermostat (because an aussie member gave me one in a large parts sale) and pipe orings, no problems observed except the socks and thongs travesty
199977

Moved on to the heads and found this mess I was glad that I decided to service them.
199978

However they were in good condition for the most part. Heaps of antifreeze to remove from the water gallery around the cylinder
199979
 

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Discussion Starter #226
After heaps of work scraping gaskets off I ended up with this.
199980
199981

Found the copper gasket spray excellent to work with.
199983

I think the liquid in the last photo was excess contact cleaner which was removed before reassembly.
199984

Only a small snippet of the wiring I decided to completely remove and re wire... more on that to come
 

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Discussion Starter #227
199985

Decided to powdercoat while I was already 90% dissasembled... hahaha
199986
199987

Then i decided to paint the engine too... so first was paint stripper. Aerosol paint stripped, varying success with different brands but I would strongly recommend the full eye protection, gloves, facemask i used and (unlike me) long sleeves because I did get small chemical burns on my arm. Its nasty stuff! Glad my family wasnt around when i did it.
199988

199989

The two etch prime coats.
199991

Satin black very high tempersture engine paint.
199990
 

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Re: "Heaps of antifreeze to remove from the water gallery around the cylinder "
Why didn't you just open the cylinder drain screws on the front of the engine? (this is mentioned in the cooling system section of the FSM)
 

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Discussion Starter #229
200001

Resoldered some broken handlebar controls and prepped for the m button
200003

Note yes i havked the handlebars centre hole a bit messily.
Also i didnt put the button through this hole i had to rip everything out and go from the rhs bar end hole in a sequenced process detailed on a webpage i have lost sorry.

200004

Chopped rear fender for temporary solution to bobber look, hoping it works out!
Also wired load side electrics ready to terminate at the motogadget.
200005
200006
 

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To answer a question from a few posts back, chain longevity depends on frequency of service. A slack chain will wear faster than one that's kept in adjustment. Retention it with every oil change, when you adjust your valves.
To comment on another earlier post, I have doubled up a helicoil for extra depth, but I don't recall what hole it was in. The trick is to insert the first to full depth, and insert the second in front. You won't be able to push the first any deeper with the second. Murray recently commented that snapping the excess from the bottom of the helicoil can leave a bur that can catch on the bolt threads. I didn't notice that, but maybe I got a lucky snap.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Re: "Heaps of antifreeze to remove from the water gallery around the cylinder "
Why didn't you just open the cylinder drain screws on the front of the engine? (this is mentioned in the cooling system section of the FSM)
Hey bob, i did, i dont know why it didnt come out ?‍♂
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Looking to put black stainless steel braided brake lines on the bike and possibly just replace the whole brake system. Any suggestions for front brake solutions?

With regards to the rear, is measuring and replacing the brake shoe if required the only maintenance required?
200078
 

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Discussion Starter #236
Lube all of the pivot points right back to the pedal, including the pedal shaft.. This includes the cam spindle where it passes through the brake plate.

Do the stands while you're at it.
Ill have to look up where those points are but i think i know! Cheers
 

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If there is any hint that the pedal is not returning to its proper rest position when you release it or you have any suspicion that it may never have been done before it may be wise to remove the pedal from the shaft, disconnect the linkage from the other end of the shaft and remove it so you can clean the shaft and the tube it runs in and re-grease them.
If it seems to be working OK you can get away with applying a bit of oil on the ends of the shaft.
 

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A halfarsed method I've used is to remove the pedal and push the shaft 30 mm to the left. This allows some grease to be daubed on the bearing surfaces on the shaft. By removing and refitting the shaft a few times while applying grease you can get the grease to work in.

Cleanup can be done by looping a kero soaked rag over it and pulling back and forth.

This avoids having to move the exhaust.

Then there's the link to the pull rod; The front end of the torque arm. {dismantle, clean and grease is best, otherwise oilcan}

The spindle going through the brake plate tends to run dry. I use copper grease or 30% moly here.
 

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Ross,

Thanks for sharing your build pics with us, its much appreciated. One thing i did notice on the pic of the wire routing through the handlebars, it was not deburred sufficiently to not cause chafing of the insulation on the wires down the road and causing electrical gremlins. The edges of the slot through the handlebar (inside and outside) need to be broken/eased/deburred so there is no sharp edges left. You may have done this already, just wasn't shown in a pic. Rock on ?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #240
If there is any hint that the pedal is not returning to its proper rest position when you release it or you have any suspicion that it may never have been done before it may be wise to remove the pedal from the shaft, disconnect the linkage from the other end of the shaft and remove it so you can clean the shaft and the tube it runs in and re-grease them.
If it seems to be working OK you can get away with applying a bit of oil on the ends of the shaft.
Bob, i will do this because the pedal is a little resistant to returning cheers mate 👌
 
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