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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the front brake fixed, so I thought I would finally drive it down the block. Put it on the center stand and saw a small drip. It appears to be comming from the left side of the water pump impeller. Any thoughts on what may be a common cause? I know, now I get to take everything off of the bike I just put on!
 

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Make sure its not your coolant tube leaking were it goes into the pump first.
 

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Gary,

Fill up the gas tank and wheel the bike out into the yard, put it on the centerstand and run the bike and let it go. After sitting a long time mechanical seals are prone to leak and then fix themselves after being ran. Or change the mechanical seal using the shep method. But I would run the bike first. It needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Decided to try Blindstich's method. Much easier! Went out for a short 2.5 mile ride. Did not do more because: the bike would not do over 35 mph and it was starting to snow! Man---was it cold! The leak seemed to slow down some. I let the bike run for 45 minutes in the driveway. I assume that the carbs are the problem for the restricted speed. I was running without an air cleaner. Maybe it was too lean. Have to get some oil for the K&N filter and put that together.
 

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restricted to 35mph in which gear?



There was hints of white stuff over here but then again when you get off work at 5:15 and it's pitch black nothing matters. I did start the bike briefly today but didn't do any more than that. Damn work and weather getting in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was third gear. Just bogged down. Had to back off the throttle to keep it going. Down shiftting did not seem to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I let the endine warm up until I had an indication on the guage. When I reved it up, it would only go, smoothly, up to 5,600, then would bogg and decrease rpms. If I applied the choke, it would go to 9,000. Thought I should do this before the snow hits!!
 

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Odd. Usually if a engine can break the 5,000 rpm barrier then carbs or coils would be blamed. Under that cdi and stator are blamed. An ignitech cdi would figure out which is the problem quickly. I have one on my bike and have used it to diagnose others bikes too.
 

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I let the endine warm up until I had an indication on the guage. When I reved it up, it would only go, smoothly, up to 5,600, then would bogg and decrease rpms. If I applied the choke, it would go to 9,000. Thought I should do this before the snow hits!!
if it will easily rev that high with a bit of choke[and not without]it points to a carb issue.i suggest an indepth clean and service of the carbs.this will help you.http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=140
 

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Sorry, I have to agree with Bandit. The issue sure points to carbs, sterilized or not. Also double check that you have the jets in the correct towers. The large number goes in the brass hex fitting. Did you ultrasonic the carb bodies? There are lots of little passages that can get gummed up, and even a ultrasonic sometimes won't clear them. Just make sure that you can squirt carb cleaner thru all passageways, and then follow with high pressure compressed air.



Sometimes it takes 2-3 times cleaning to get acceptable results. Hang in there, you'll get it.
 

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I took the carbs appart and steralized them! Removed all of the jets.
gsting,surely you can see,if by introducing the choke to your bike,you can easily rev to the redband than it must be a fuel delivery related issue.i cant think how it could be anything else.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Right now I am on a "make it pretty" campain. I have the valve covers off to be sandblasted. Also, on a non related matter, I assume that to take the clutch cover off, you have to drain the oil. True? I want to blast that also. I will ponder the suggestions for when I get it back together. I have 112 mains in it. I have 115. Should I try this? Right now, I have to fire up another engine. The one on my snow thrower! Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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If you are just taking the round clutch cover off, you shouldn't have to drain the oil. It should be below the level of the bottom of the cover I believe.



You may not be happy with the result of sandblasting the covers. If you actually use a sand mix, you will end up with a abraded surface that you won't be able to polish without considerable sanding and buffing. I have not tried a glass bead or walnut shell blasting mix, so I'm not sure of the final results using those. The originals were polished with a very tough clear coat on top. You can remove the clear coat with a paint stripper and then sand with 400 - 1000 wet/dry and then buff to a mirror shine. The clutch cover is easy because it doesn't have any ridges or grooves. The valve covers are more fun. But hey, you have all winter, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I dripped some when the cover was removed. Let some of the oil out to stop this. Did tear up the gasket getting the cover off. Now I need to order a $7 gasket!!



I found a place in town that will let you glass bead blast yourself. $1.25 a minute. Think I will go that route.
 
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