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I gotta agree with nolimitz on this. It’s just a simple and common radiator cap. Not rocket science. Just because one person didn’t research enough and ordered the wrong one doesn’t mean it’s a bad idea to search and buy the right part online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I appreciate the suggestions and comments. I actually started with Motofaction, then went searching Amazon, EBay, chain retailer sites. I found that my local auto parts stores had 13 psi caps that were either too small for the rad opening, or caps with RV's, or were rated for 16 psi or higher. These were all < $10 choices. It would have been much quicker and easier to spend $20 more for a Honda cap.

I did find one 13 psi cap that fits, but it doesn't have "ears" like the original. So it lacks turning leverage; not an issue on the bench, but on the bike I don't think I'd be able to remove it if necessary. That said, I'll probably use this one.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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It is slightly easier to remove the caps with the "ears" but the hexagonal or octagonal caps work just fine and you normally don't need to remove the cap except when replacing the coolant or draining the engine for major work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thank you. I know the famous weep hole has been mentioned or discussed many times. I dont plan on dropping the engine, but I haven’t located this feature on my bike. Is it behind this small 10mm bolt? If not, exactly where is it, and what does this 10mm bolt do?

Also, when I reassemble the cooling system, what sealant is best for all the joints?
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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1) If you haven't already done so go to the CX Wiki (link in my signature) and download the Factory Shop Manual for your model.
2) Read through all of the maintenance information in the FSM.

You should have learned long ago that that bolt is for adjusting the camchain tensioner and that it is imperative that you regularly adjust the tensioner.

The weep hole is on the other side. You have to look up behind the water pipe next to the water pump cover to find it
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Well this is embarrassing. I loosened and then tightened that bolt. I guess this would be a good time to do my first cam chain tensioner adjustment. Should I follow the steps in the manual or is there something special that needs to be done?
 

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Follow the steps in the manual.

Basically set engine to TDC compression stroke, left cylinder. Loosen the bolt a couple of turns. Retighten.

The left is now ready for valve clearance adjustment.
 

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Thank you. I know the famous weep hole has been mentioned or discussed many times. I dont plan on dropping the engine, but I haven’t located this feature on my bike. Is it behind this small 10mm bolt? If not, exactly where is it, and what does this 10mm bolt do?

Also, when I reassemble the cooling system, what sealant is best for all the joints?
First and foremost get the cam chain adjusted properly, but what coolant joints do you want to use a sealant on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Follow the steps in the manual.

Basically set engine to TDC compression stroke, left cylinder. Loosen the bolt a couple of turns. Retighten.

The left is now ready for valve clearance adjustment.
There's a bolt behind the 17mm cover below the fan - this is used to turn over the valve train? And TDC compression stroke is found when both inlet and exhaust rockers are loose?

200560
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Today: Adjusted cam chain tension and set valve clearances "with a little help from my friends". Valve adjustment lasted about four hours. IMO this activity can teach you patience.

Waiting for parts. Be well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Today: Adjusted cam chain tension and set valve clearances "with a little help from my friends". Valve adjustment lasted about four hours. IMO this activity can teach you patience.

Waiting for parts. Be well. View attachment 200585
Almost a year later and I’m just getting round to putting the cooling system back together. New o-rings all around. The long chrome cooling pipe (return to radiator) has a double ridge on the end that goes into the engine block. OEM shop manual and other schematics show one o-ring. Should there be two?
 

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One o-ring, in front of the first bump.
Others will be along soon to tell you the opposite.
 
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