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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Went to auto parts store today to get M14-1.5 bolt (male wheel lug), antifreeze, radiator flush, radiator cap, thermostat. Bolt will allow fan removal. Is it possible that existing fan is original?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
In pics 4 - 6 below the fan, is the black cap with wires coming out of it the oil pressure switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Fan cracks for sure.

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I'm hoping this looks worse than it is.

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Cleaned up the area a bit. This is the tach drive housing, or is there something here that I should take care of while I'm in here?


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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yes. Figured that out after cleaning up the area. How bad are the cracks in the fan and are replacement fans available. Also l'd like to pressure test the radiator - how would I go about doing that?
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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The cheap & easy way is to put the rad cap on and tun the engine up to temperature and see if coolant squirts out somewhere or moves to the recovery tank. If it only moves to the tank all is well.

Apparently the same fan is still used on a Honda generator so new ones should be available for quite a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Before disassembly I had no overheating (rode 200 miles on back roads in 80 F last weekend) and no obvious leaks. Some of these pics might show some? Also, How does the radiator look? Should I give it to a radiator shop? Do rad shops still exist? It's been decades since I was this far into cooling system issues.

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Yes. Figured that out after cleaning up the area. How bad are the cracks in the fan and are replacement fans available.
It seems that those cracks in the fan hub are to be expected and may not be the cause of fan failure. This thread is interesting reading. Broken Fan Blades
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Trying to find a replacement rad cap. Original one seems okay but it appears to be original. So I think using a new one would be the better move. Found one at an auto parts store, but it is rated for 16 psi instead of 13 psi, like the original. Since the system was designed for 13 psi, I'm thinking a cap rated to operate at approx 23% higher pressure could cause problems. Is this correct thinking?
 

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I would look for a 13 PSI one. They used to be the most common rad cap around until the makers started using those small ones so it shouldn't be too hard to find.
 

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The problem with searches like that is that there are 2 sizes and they both look the same in the pics. I found that out when I bought some on eBay and they didn't fit (I thought the size meant the opening it went into, the seller thought it meant the diameter of the outer part).
 

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Bob a little bit of part # research goes a long way before going to the store. Just saying. A rad cap is not rocket science even during covid. Why buy parts you know you dont want to use??
I did think I did adequate research but I learned different. I wanted a new cap each for both bikes and a couple of spares (they were about 1/4 the price shipped directly from China as bought locally).

I didn't say you couldn't find caps from a search like that, just that you have to be careful. The ones I'm using now were found on Amazon.
 
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