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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a little advice on shortening cables. I heard you can solder the ball back onto the cable. But what about getting the old off AND what about cutting the jacket? I'm looking at a set of cables that are new, in my price range, but I already know they are 10 inches to long.

Looky looky
 

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Larry's words - Eurovee's pictures



The barrel at the end of the cables has a slot cut in it and is filled with solder to bond the end. I melted it out with a small tourch set at low heat, and used an air hose to blow out the solder. After mesureing the exact length I wanted to shorten it, I pulled off the threaded end, pulled out the cable part way, and cut the houseing and the cable the SAME lenth, adding 1/8 inch for the cable end so it could be fraid over inside the barrel end slot before soldering it back together.

The key point next was to try to find the right flux to clean the cable and barrel with so the solder would flow and bond. After several different types that didn't flow, I remembered that muratic acid is what is used to soldier galvanized metal flashing for roof jacks, rain gutters, etc.., so I tried it, SURE ENOUGH, it worked. I pressed the threaded end back on the housing, threaded the cable end thru the hole in the barrel end and let it soak in the muratic acid till the bubbleing stops. It will clean between each cable strand without heating it up like you need to do with paste flux. Brush it off with a fine wire brush to clean off the residue and put the end back in the vice, Fray the very tip of the cable out about a 1/16 of an inch to the left and right, so it lays to each side of the slot in the barrel.

Putting the end in the vice acts as a heat sink so the heat disipate and does not melt the cable or the barrel fitting.

Make sure the cable is straight before soldering.

You don't need to use much heat, but make sure you heat the barrel from the side and don't heat the cable directly. It wouldn't take much heat to break down the strenth of the cable or melt it. The solder will flow very well into the slot binding the cable together with the barrel. I had to file it smooth a little to get rid of the excess solder so the barrel fitting turned smooth in the carb end after installed.

I did a couple practice runs with the leftover cut off end of the cable to make sure of the flow and bondability of the process. I would suggest you do the same before the final fit of the cables your intending to resize.

It works great and I don't have excess cable hanging out any more.

This works on the clutch cable as well. Just make sure you know the length you need and go for it.

Muratic acid is cheap. You can get it at any pool supply shop or hardware store for a few bucks. Just make sure you clean up any spills and get the rags out of your garage and into the trash after you do the job. The fumes and evaporating spills will rust any metals in the area if you leave it sit without cleaning it up.

I hope this helps someone thats tired of eccess floppy cables.

Good luck and ride safe











 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry. I spoke to soon. Needed to read it again. Thank you for finding this! Pin it? I found it to be really helpful!!!
 
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