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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
while i was waiting for my brake pads i thought i would double check if i still had a coolant leak. i brought the bike to the center of the drive way and started it up. after 10 min. of running the tstat opened and yes sirie! coolant leaking in multiple locations. i tried to seal it up with the high temp silicone i got for this but it was still leaking. also when the cooling fan engages it draws enough power to stall the motor unless the rpms are up. still didn't stop me from wanting to take it for a spin. took it for a little test drive down the block and things were great there. until i pulled back into the driveway and all the burning coolant began to steam up on me. while i let it cool off i found a puddle of gas under the bike. i'm pouring fuel out of the left side overflow.


so from being 1 part away from being done i now have to pull the carbs and the radiator and cross over pipes back off. replace the fan with a smaller one, seal all the leaks and figure out why the damn left side float decided to stick.
 

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Try and concentrate on one issue at a time.I'm a bugger for trying to fix multiple problems all at once and then letting myself down.Floats sticking many times will settle in when enough fuel has been pulled through the carbs e.g enough miles ridden so concentrate on the cooling leaks and the the Fan.







As for the Fan stalling the engine that's a sign that there's a fault with the charging system.This can something as simple as an old crappy main fuse and holder,bad battery.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27



My,"Bitsa" CX would flatten batteries until I changed it not long after building the bike.I also found a semi-broken HT(High Tension/thick ground strap from the battery so bought a length of Car earth strap and made a new connection to the frame at the Regulator/Rectifier making sure it was a good ground point and not insulated from the frame.
 

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Fan - sounds like you've adapted an electic fan. Are you sure you haven't used something that isn't frawing more amperage than the charging system can handle?



Coolant leaks: For the cost of the o-rings, just replace each and every one of them. Replace the one for the thermostat, and replace the o-rings in each of the tubes that go to each cylinder. I wouldn't mess with silicone. There are a total of 5 o-rings for all of the coolant tubes (counting the one that goes to the pipe coming out of the waterpumo housing). They're all the same size. The size is critical, and you might still have leaks if you use something that is "close enough". Spend the extra $$ and order them from Honda - you'll be glad you did, and that should take care of your coolant leaks - assuming you don't have leaks at the head gasket or around the waterpump housing too.



Fuel leak: As already pointed out, you have a sticking float, or these is some debris under the needle valve in that carb. Sometimes tapping with a rubber mallet will help, too. Worse case scenario is you'll have to pull the carb, remove the bowl, and clean it out a bit, not forgetting to clean the needle valve.



Agreed - tackle each problem one at a time. You'll get it conquered....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i dug into it a little bit more this morning. some of the coolant leaks appear to be my fault from reassembly. the tstat was turned in the housing blocking the offending port. also when i took it apart one of the o rings didn't go back in and the cross over pipe on the left side went in backwards. i found the o ring on the shop floor and it slid right on and sealed tightly.



the cooling fan was an aftermarket off a honda civic. when i shopped for it i only looked at the diameter of the fan to make sure it fit. this fan draws about 7-8 amps at engagment. in the world i'm used to making stuff for 8 amps is nothing on a system. i need to think smaller so i scavenged some small cooling fans out of a computer case that i was going to throw out.



the fuel leak is the one that i'm stumped on. it was a very big leak that i cannot drive on to hopefully get the float needles to seat. i'll have to pull the bowl off and check if theres something jammed in there. this gives me an opportunity to fix some things i was going to let slide as far as the asthetics of the tank and the carbs. as well as the mounting of the radiator. i had to get a little creative with the mounting because this rad. is smaller than the original and the fan was deeper and would rub against the camshaft.



i am pretty happy with the test drive though. i learned that i can think on the fly and correct or bypass any little issue that comes up at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i did the math. its an 80 watt fan and a 12v system. 6.66 amps. i just nabbed 2 pc fans that together are less then 1/2 an amp. fingers crossed the air flow will be enough. god i wish this bike was air cooled
 

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i did the math. its an 80 watt fan and a 12v system. 6.66 amps. i just nabbed 2 pc fans that together are less then 1/2 an amp. fingers crossed the air flow will be enough. god i wish this bike was air cooled


If it were,"Air Cooled" for it's displacement it would have about as much guts as a C90<grin>




My pal's T140 V 1976 750cc Air cooled Bonneville only has 46 Bhp.Our CXs have 50 Bhp




I can leave him standing well up to 70/80 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i know it is just frustration to have a system with so many freakin' problems.

i got the radiator remounted and the coolant pipes reattached and sealed. i have enough clearance at the top of the radiator to mount the fans with the radiator still on the bike. at some point i'll get a different radiator thats made for this model year so tuesday once i get the brake pads i'll turn my attention to the fuel tank and carb to see where its leaking from the tank and why the float valve is not doing anything. still looking to be done on Thanksgiving.
 

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i know it is just frustration to have a system with so many freakin' problems.

i got the radiator remounted and the coolant pipes reattached and sealed. i have enough clearance at the top of the radiator to mount the fans with the radiator still on the bike. at some point i'll get a different radiator thats made for this model year so tuesday once i get the brake pads i'll turn my attention to the fuel tank and carb to see where its leaking from the tank and why the float valve is not doing anything. still looking to be done on Thanksgiving.


Don't get despondent.Many of us have had frustrations.It's par-for-the-course with older bikes.Once you get all the kinks ironed out I'm sure,if you are riding in next year in good weather,you will get your,"Moments of Zen" as I have and many have.

You will be riding along and a sudden feeling of it all coming together will come over you and the satisfaction of riding a bike you have worked on pays off.That feeling cannot be bought!

Then of course there's the conversations these bikes start from other bikers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i've had this bike just about a year. its come a long way but its still got a ways to go. most of the people i work with give me shit on a daily basis like i'll never get it done and i've spent too much time and money on it. its irritating because i am reasonably proud of the progress i have made on this having absolutely NO experience working on motorcycles or anything carbuerated. i get frustrated easily when i can see the finish line but then i get thrown into reverse gear. i'll keep plugging away at it and hopefully soon have something i can drive to work and give them all the finger about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fuel leak: As already pointed out, you have a sticking float, or these is some debris under the needle valve in that carb. Sometimes tapping with a rubber mallet will help, too. Worse case scenario is you'll have to pull the carb, remove the bowl, and clean it out a bit, not forgetting to clean the needle valve.


didn't consider tapping the carb to clear the debris.

about an hour ago when i pulled the fan off the radiator i had to cut the ties that held it on. after i reassembled everything i filled the radiator and saw some coolant trickle out of the spots the ties were run thru. i'm going to keep going forward on everything. if it continues to leak i'll try some stop leak in the radiator.
 
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