[ScrapMetal]

OK, so work has begun. Tonight's 2 hour adventure was unfortunately simply removing the front end from my 1980 donor bike. I thought I would try the fork swap on the parts bike first to see how everything went and make my mistakes there. Well, day 1 and already I've got a few questions:



1) Allballs. I've read the posts, visited the website, and know the numbers. My question is do I need the allballs tapered bearings? I have the original 1991 CBR 600F2 set, and magically still have all the original balls from the CX. My thought was that the allballs makes the stem fit properly as when I attempted to attach the CBR stem I could still see about half of the ball(s) and the top didn't come through enough because of it.







2) CX fork issues. Now, when I do this on the '79 bike I won't have this issue, but WTH! I had to unscrew the hex cap to get the forks off. Good thing I was using a wrench as the cap popped off due to the springs! I removed the air valve first, but there was no way that hex cap was going through both sets of clamps. What forks are these from? I don't think they were standard issue 1980 CX500C forks.









3) Oh yeah, it was friggin' cold! Even with my heater, my garage being uninsulated made for lchilly work tonight. About 45 inside.





Looks like I'll have to order the balls before I continue with fork swap, but I can disassemble the real bike in the meantime now that i have an idea what I am doing.



Tomorrow's project, work on tank stays for the deluxe tank to be put on the custom frame.

 

[Blindstitch]

OK, so work has begun. Tonight's 2 hour adventure was unfortunately simply removing the front end from my 1980 donor bike. I thought I would try the fork swap on the parts bike first to see how everything went and make my mistakes there. Well, day 1 and already I've got a few questions:



1) Allballs. I've read the posts, visited the website, and know the numbers. My question is do I need the allballs tapered bearings? I have the original 1991 CBR 600F2 set, and magically still have all the original balls from the CX. My thought was that the allballs makes the stem fit properly as when I attempted to attach the CBR stem I could still see about half of the ball(s) and the top didn't come through enough because of it.







2) CX fork issues. Now, when I do this on the '79 bike I won't have this issue, but WTH! I had to unscrew the hex cap to get the forks off. Good thing I was using a wrench as the cap popped off due to the springs! I removed the air valve first, but there was no way that hex cap was going through both sets of clamps. What forks are these from? I don't think they were standard issue 1980 CX500C forks.

3) Oh yeah, it was friggin' cold! Even with my heater, my garage being uninsulated made for lchilly work tonight. About 45 inside.





Looks like I'll have to order the balls before I continue with fork swap, but I can disassemble the real bike in the meantime now that i have an idea what I am doing.



Tomorrow's project, work on tank stays for the deluxe tank to be put on the custom frame.



Pics coming in a few minutes. OK. Pics not working for me tonight. I'll try to fix tomorrow.

 

[Blindstitch]

The caps on your forks are aftermarket. The forks look right.



Here's a link to where the pictures are.

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/sbk155/1979 Honda CX500C/Cafe Project/



Whatever code you used or tried to use looked like crap and was confusing itself. I thin I saw 3 sets of image codes in the one.



Usually what I do is go to SHARE..... More Options.... Get Link Code... and Copy the one that says large image.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Got it, thanks. I'll try to go in tomorrow and fix it.



AFtermarket caps? Wow, well, I can say for certain they were a PITA!

 

[Blindstitch]

Oh I guess I didn't answer anything.



The all Balls or tapered bearings is a good solution. I suggest using them because it's maximum efficiency. I would get new because in order to use what you have you will have to remove the bearing races from the head stock and put those in the other bike.



The ball bearing solution isn't bad but this is one of those things that you really only have to do once so you could put old tech into a system or go the way everyone else does now.



I'm also not a fan of chasing balls around the garage floor.

Sometimes a big magnet doesn't find them all. And if the races are notched then you're not fixing it.





The stock caps have a hexed 17mm head. But what you have will work fine.



Can you remove the inlet/nipple?

 

[ScrapMetal]

Stitch,



I have already removed the tubes by removing the cap and watching the spring jump up. I actually have the entire front end off so now I was getting ready to attach the CBR triple tree, followed by the CBR forks, so I don't think I understand your question.



Also, I was very careful about the balls as I have read many, many posts about pinata type situations. I think a total of 3 hit the ground (cycle cover placed under the stem).



Sounds like I'll order the balls sets and move on.



Thanks again and let me know if I am not understanding your advice.

 

[Blindstitch]

The fork cap has what looks like a threaded nipple on it that might come off with a box wrench. Just an observation. The other front ends going to be a pretty nice upgrade.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Oh, yeah. I took those off before and still couldn't get the cap through the triples. The hex corners protruded beyond the fork tubes. Crazy, right?



Ordered the Allballs today so forward motion in progress.



If you take a look at the first pic in my first post you'll see an upward shot of the stem tube. Does that look right or is there a another piece that needs to be removed? Like a ring/race or something inside the tube?

 

[Blindstitch]

I believe they are both still in there. Two races are in the head and the other two on the triple.



#6 and #7 on the diagram are the ones probably still in the head. You want to knock them out with a drift.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...le-cx500c-steering-stem-horn/o/m9596sch404620

 

[Scudman]

I am not sure if you are putting the F2 front end on the CX by your post or if you are just changing the stem bearings. Either way the All Balls is the way to go. If you are changing to the F2 front end the wheel bearings need to be replaced with a larger ID bearing and all the spacers if you wish to use the stock 19" wheel. The top nut cannot be used on the F2 stem as the stem is short. The brake calipers will need brackets so that they will fit the stock disks. I used F4 disks with the F4 calipers but I used the F4 forks which are dimensionally the same as the F2. This setup required making adapters to fit the disks to the wheel For suspension setup on the F2 front end try 10W fork oil with a 100mm air gap. The front end must be at its lowest position in the tripple clamps or the stock wheel will hit the radiator. Handling is much improved and the brakes are strong enough to lock up the front with a 2 finger squeeze of the lever.

 

[ScrapMetal]

hey scud, yup I'm replacing the entire front end. While I would like to keep the stock wheel I'll probably just go with the f2 wheel this next season. I'd have to farm out a dual disc Whee

 

[Scudman]

hey scud, yup I'm replacing the entire front end. While I would like to keep the stock wheel I'll probably just go with the f2 wheel this next season. I'd have to farm out a dual disc Whee

I have the front wheel with disks. Keeping the F2 front wheel is the easiest way to go but the disks are not floaters and the calipers are 2 pots each. BTW I have the calipers and master cylinder as well. Leftovers from my track bike. I also have 2 CX front ends one with a dual brake setup

 

[ScrapMetal]

So what are you saying here? Is the non-floating going to cause issues, cause I'm digging the idea of more braking power. I think I'm just not fully understanding. Probably because I've been trying to fix my computer for the past 10 hours!

 

[50gary]

mis fire

 

[Scudman]

So what are you saying here? Is the non-floating going to cause issues, cause I'm digging the idea of more braking power. I think I'm just not fully understanding. Probably because I've been trying to fix my computer for the past 10 hours!

No issues with the F2 brakes as they are worlds better and lighter than the stock heavy brakes. I chose to fit the later brakes with the original wheel because I had them and the 4 pot calipers worked with thhe F4 disks. One thing leads to another. Way overkill on the bike that will not see 100mph but they look cool. BTW your speedo will be accurate with the F2 speedo drive and the F2 cable will bolt right up.

 

[ScrapMetal]

That's good to know, thanks! I'm almost done staring at my computer ( and swearing ) so back to work onthe bike as soon as the balls arrive.

 

[ScrapMetal]

OK, so looooong COLD winter, but I'm back at it!



Tonight's episode:

I practiced swapping my forks around (without the new bearings) just to get an idea of what will need to be cut off, shaved down, removed, redirected, and spit on. Luckily I have a spare frame to work on. Here is the bike as it sits tonight:





And again without the headlamp:





I also did some tank work. I think I have successfully cut up the rubber spacers for the deluxe tank, here is the difference; they fit perfectly inside the C-slots without hanging out, so I hope that was the goal.





Need to get the shoulder bolts to alter. Anyone know the size I'm looking for?

 

[ScrapMetal]

OK, so a little more work, and a great gift from Fed Ex! A friend came over and helped out with the seat frame (inspired by Steve). Early days yet, but progress none the less.



This is showing the mock up of seat on frame (more work needed of course) with tank, etc.





This is the start of the seat frame. I ground down some of the frame "lip" by the tank "lip" to allow the frame to sit slightly further forward and as a result a little higher. I want it higher because I'm 6'3" and could use an extra inch of leg room

Here are the tank nubs ground down and the rubber discs cut to allow the deluxe tank to fit on the custom frame. This was found on the general info sticky. Thanks forum!





I'll still need to cut/grind out a little from the tank "lip" in order to fit the rubber mount, and also to allow the seat frame to get that extra inch.

 

[ScrapMetal]

So a small change of plans. Thinking of going with these CB900F forks (39mm) in lieu of the 91 CBR F2 forks (41mm) simply because I want to keep the Comstar wheel and do it easily but still go with dual discs. However, I have a few questions that maybe some of you can answer:



Why does only one fork have an air valve?

What are these things and are they easy to get off?

What brake caliper is this to? I thought it was a CB900, but clearly the bracket doesn't fit! Maybe it is the Custom and not the F???

Other than that, using these forks will probably allow me to keep most of the wiring and fuses as is to start with. Naturally as the bike progresses I'll want to move them, but it makes it nice to be able to ride it for a while and then work on it some more.



Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[americanclassic]

The forks only have one air valve because they connect to each other via a hose. The holes pointing towards the camera are where the hose connects.



Dont know...



You need to use the stock caliper bracket, but that caliper will likely bolt up.