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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We all hate it and are all to familiar with it. Last year I polished the center part of my starter untill it looked chrome. Then I used adhesion promoter, followed by many layers of clear coat. A year latter it looks like... rust. Right now I have it hanging, all cleaned up, but this time I have a few coats of rust treatment on it. Which turns black. Guess there goes the polished look. I really need help in this area. If any of you have some magic beans or deep secrets on getting rid of this cancer, and keeping it away for at least a few years, I'm all ears!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you ever use a wax like protection like Mothers?
Covering rust isnt enough as far as I know. Pretty sure it needs to be treated with a chemical. Not sure if mothers does that. I know you paint a lot stitch, are you saying that Mothers has been good to you to prevent rust from forming under paint?
 

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I am wondering why it would have rusted with the clear coat. Maybe the adhesion promoter didn't like the base metal? Or maybe the clear itself reacted. Might be a good time to plate it.



As far as killing the rust, heat will (but cooks windings, too!) and there are some chemical methods as well. Wire wheel it then follow with a torch. Just make sure the delicates are removed first!
 

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Not to cover the rust. If you polished the item and left it bare then it would rust. Polishing everything up with mothers should extend the shine 6 months to a year. Then do it again.





As for rust if you can sit it in a pan evaporust will take care of it and not eat the metal.
 

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I think you will find that if you use Mothers or some other wax or silicon based product, your paint won't stick to the surface.

You'll end up with a mess of fish eyes.
 

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Once metal has corrosion that corrosion is then built in.All you can do is slow it down unless you take enough metal off.Clear coating will not prevent it re-appearing unless the corrosion is ground out and even then moisture can get under clear coat or even through it depending on the type of paint used.You can treat the metal but you then cannot polish it.If you do polish it you then remove it's needed adhesive qualities for painting.

Most professional bright metal clear-coating is an expensive procedure requiring specialist equipment and cannot be done at home.

Paint it Satin black or as I do on some of my Starters Plastikote 665 Satin silver high temp radiator paint.



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Plastikote-Ra...ial_Paint_Varnish_MJ&var=&hash=item791305b2db



It's quick drying,robust and I use it on my engines as well,







This is good stuff as well but may not be as bright,



http://cgi.ebay.com/Rust-Oleum-High...178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35acc9ecba





Note:If you try and clear coat these types of aerosol they will dull to a,"Gun Metal Gray".









My main work is in the Aircraft industry as a Painter so I know all about metal corrosion in Alloys and even steel is an Alloy
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I should use a rust treatment on the corrosion (once sanded) on my engine before paint? Darn, I just cleaned mine up good (sanded) and primerd and painted. Should have asked about that one. Found that red high temp gasket maker (RTV) matches pretty well for touching up dings in the paint.
 

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Very easy answer, polishing steel and then CC does not last..CC is not designed to etch into steel so it will depending on the conditions it's exposed to, could come off after a day even, that is why you have primers...




The best you could do is,remove ALL the rust,make surre the surface is CLEAN then Prime there & then.Once Primed you ok, BC you can apply at anytime. If you want a smooth finish on the Primer I use a 2K Primer, then BC and 2K CC but the 2k stuff is not so "healthy" so read the instructions when using 2K material.



Being a frame I usually do a total strip down and sandblast then Powercoat+CC...works like a charm.
 

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So I should use a rust treatment on the corrosion (once sanded) on my engine before paint? Darn, I just cleaned mine up good (sanded) and primerd and painted. Should have asked about that one. Found that red high temp gasket maker (RTV) matches pretty well for touching up dings in the paint.


Can't say.Too many variables.You may have done a great prep job and it will last.If you live in humid or salty areas it may not last as long.If the roads you use have lots of stones and grit same applies.

See how it goes,it's only paint
 

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I use the SOS pads with the soap built in to remove lightish surface rust, if you keep the pad wet it won't scratch the chrome, just go over it as lightly as possible, it doesn't take much to get rid of light surface rust, then use a good chrome polish and it won't come back if you keep it on there, I've done it to my luggage rack and most of the rest of my chrome and it works well, but you have to put something on it to protect it or the rust will come back quickly
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all for your thoughts on this matter. So get down to clean clean metal and keep it protected. That sounds good but Ive always seen rust come back up through the paint in relativity short order
Am I not cleaning off enough metal? I get it pretty shiny. Maybe it wouldnt be so bad, but it always gets rained on. I suppose I need to get a bike cover. Any recommendations?
 

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Me over achiever.Don't think so<grin>.Cheap paint,easy to spray and touch up.Dries in no time and can get it from my local Supermarket or DIY store.Me don't like polishing much




When you have machine polished the fuselages of Tristars polishing somewhat loses it's flavour
 
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