[smuryof]

Hi everyone,



Now that my carbs are performing fantastically, thanks to various folks on here and a week of patient step-by-step following of instructions, I'm ready to tackle my machine's OTHER major problem.



Ever since I've had it, it has always run on the edge of the Red Zone. Under load it would go past to the H. Not smart, yes I know, but I had tried everything I knew and really wanted to drive it.



I'm starting to suspect crystallized coolant after reading several posts, so I want to be sure I have the procedure correct.



I plan to:



* Drain and remove the radiator

* Drain the engine coolant via plugs on the front of the engine, that is, IF anything comes out.

* Remove the thermostat

* Put system back together and fill with 100% white vinegar

* Run the machine until it is well in the Normal zone

* Shut it off and let it sit overnight

* Drain and check for crud

* Repeat until no more crud reveals itself on draining

*************************

* After it drains crud-free, replace thermostat & re-fill with new 50/50 mix.



Is that about right?

 

[ramprat06]

Before I put in the real coolant, I'd do a few rinses/runs with just plain water to make sure no residue of the vinegar was left. I can't remember if running the engine while the vinegar is in there will harm any other internals, but doubt it. Unless you had some other area that leaked coolant into places it's not supposed to be. Water pump seal? Don't know if that would affect it or not.



You might also take a check on your 7 volt regulator for the temp gauge, those can be faulty and give bad readings.



Joel in the Couve.

 

[DanCX500]

I like Joel in the Couve's advice about checking to make sure your heat gauge is telling the truth! Harbor Freight sells an inferred thermometer fairly cheep. You could check the running temp with that.

 

[Blindstitch]

I second the heat gauge and sometimes 7volt regulators cant be trusted.

 

[Shep]

Click here,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=257



and for rad flushing,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Coolant.htm

 

[smuryof]

So I bought the IR temp sensor - VERY cool unit, by the way, especially for $40 bucks - and I got different readings from different parts of the engine.



The cooling line coming up from the right-hand cylinder read about 160-170 degrees as the gauge was creeping up on the red zone.



The cylinders themselves read roughly 150-190 depending on where I measured.



The hot spots, though, were above and inward from the exhaust ports. Both sides read over 200 degrees. Is this normal?

 

[smuryof]

So I'll say it again, you guys are awesome.



I just measured 9.5v on the little green wire going to the temp sensor under the T-stat.



I'm going to email marshallf3 and get the regulator kit & put it together, and in the meantime I'm not going to worry about temps, assuming the 200 reading was because of its proximity to the exhaust port, & also taking comfort that the two spots were the same on both cylinders.



An aside, I picked up an automotive stethoscope for $5 while I was at Harbor Freight getting the IR gauge. That thing is cool - I can hear every click and clack. I think my valves on the RH cylinder need a little adjustment.



Cheers,

-Jim

 

[Shep]

So I'll say it again, you guys are awesome.



I just measured 9.5v on the little green wire going to the temp sensor under the T-stat.



I'm going to email marshallf3 and get the regulator kit & put it together, and in the meantime I'm not going to worry about temps, assuming the 200 reading was because of its proximity to the exhaust port, & also taking comfort that the two spots were the same on both cylinders.



An aside, I picked up an automotive stethoscope for $5 while I was at Harbor Freight getting the IR gauge. That thing is cool - I can hear every click and clack. I think my valves on the RH cylinder need a little adjustment.



Cheers,

-Jim

It wasn't for you to know but unfortunately Marshall has passed away after a battle with illness

See my link above as it's quite easy to make a voltage regulator.

 

[anemptygun]

Just wanted to say thanks! I had been having trouble with my bikes temp gauge, even though it seemed to been running fine I didn't feel like I could trust it. It would be redlining after 5 minutes of riding. Made a new 7v regulator and installed it, my temp gauge is working great now. I think I spent $10 total. Cheers to Reg for making that write up!