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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK heres how I got a rotor off yesterday

You see the 17mm socket on the bar?

I used that and a hammer to shock the 17mm headed bolt off the rotor.

I then used the 17mm socket and bar on the front of the crank with the

handle on the clutch casing to hold it still

and fitted an old oil fiter bolt on the rotor and got my stilsons on it

and screwed it in

It came off quite easily



If I'd had to get to the grunting,involuntary farting,

veins on my head standing out stage with the stilsons

it would have been wise to stop and use a solid bolt

(20x1.5mm pitch)

instead of the OF bolt

as there are limits to what abuse the OF bolt can take



AS soon as I felt the rotor free up I removed the OF bolt

and grabbed the toothed wheel and lifted it off with the starter gear in place

and put it straight in 2 plastic bags to stop the rotor magnets

picking up any metallic debris.

( you try cleaning up one of these when its picked up crap)



Note the needle roller assembly in the centre

this sometimes stays on the shaft, so I removed it and stowed it safe in the rotor as well





When I had the rotor in a cleaner area I gently pulled the toothed gear out

and examined the rollers and shaft

It all looked good and the shaft had no ridging that the 650s especially

are prone to, so I put it back together and stowed it safe



 

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Reg...many thanks for this information. Just what I need. Thanks for the plastic bag immediately idea....I would only have thought about it afterwards.

Johnny
 

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You really need a compressor and an air gun, Reg.




You can go from complete CX to 4 parts boxes and a clean frame in less than 30 minutes with one, with nothing but the main block still in one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You really need a compressor and an air gun, Reg.




You can go from complete CX to 4 parts boxes and a clean frame in less than 30 minutes with one, with nothing but the main block still in one piece.


Oh yes

there are lots of toys I'd love to have but

my bikes are outdoor dogs and having no garage or workshop

means the old van has to act as workshop/storeoom/sprayshop

shopping trolley/kids taxi/moonlight flit machine etc
 

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Well, you could always do this :)



http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff467/stern-69/DSCF5601.jpg

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff467/stern-69/DSCF5602.jpg



Do have a garage, but too much crap in it (about 40 toinns of pipe fitting for work, valves etc) so after 4 years of bugging the wife to get a shed, she finally said I could build one. Waited until she went to work then pounded up the platform for it (8ft X 16ft X 8 ft high). She wasnt too impressed with the size, but now I can clean out the garage and have a shop again lol
 

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The battery powered impact guns and such are an alternative. They work very well, only downside is that they are still pretty heavy when compared to air tools.
 

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Reg...and anyone...I've read the first post on this thread and understand what needs to be done, but I've got a slight problem. I did purchase a proper 20 x 1.5 mm bolt from Bolts Plus ($10). It's threaded into the flywheel/rotor. I've some headway on "pulling" the rotor out, maybe about 1 mm. I've got that gator socket on the funny clutch nut. Trying to screw in the bolt...problem...no resistance on the clutch. Ahhhh, I'm in neutral. Probably need to put into gear so there can be resistance on the rotor bolt and clutch nut. I've looked at the gear selector mechanism and I think I can figure out how it works to select a gear, but I'm unable to move the selector to get into a gear. I've got no way to disengage the clutch as the clutch cable has long been removed. Any recommendations as how to accomplish getting the gear engaged? At least I think this is what I need to do. Gosh, I'm almost there....
 

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You should be able to select a gear without using the clutch. Put the selector lever back on temporally and try to select 1st gear by pushing down. You may have to rotate the output shaft to allow the gear dogs to mesh, but it should easily shift.



An alternative is a strap wrench on the flywheel. Even something as simple as a old leather belt clamped and twisted around a long rod. Don't forget to tap on the bolt head as you get it tight. That helps with the release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Reg...and anyone...I've read the first post on this thread and understand what needs to be done, but I've got a slight problem. I did purchase a proper 20 x 1.5 mm bolt from Bolts Plus ($10). It's threaded into the flywheel/rotor. I've some headway on "pulling" the rotor out, maybe about 1 mm. I've got that gator socket on the funny clutch nut. Trying to screw in the bolt...problem...no resistance on the clutch. Ahhhh, I'm in neutral. Probably need to put into gear so there can be resistance on the rotor bolt and clutch nut. I've looked at the gear selector mechanism and I think I can figure out how it works to select a gear, but I'm unable to move the selector to get into a gear. I've got no way to disengage the clutch as the clutch cable has long been removed. Any recommendations as how to accomplish getting the gear engaged? At least I think this is what I need to do. Gosh, I'm almost there....


Johny

If I'm reading this right

you have the bolt in the rotor to pull it off the taper and

as your mentioning the clutch I think you may be getting a wee bit confused?

I use a 17mm socket on the front cranshaft bolt to hold against the rotor puller

Not the clutch

hang on, will take a pic with that damn shitty camera



talk amongst yerselves while I'm gone

smoke em if got em and all that



Right. heres how I held the crank while screwing the bolt in

to lift the rotor off the taper

HTH

 

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There's always the trusty BFH method: Thread the bolt into the rotor by hand until it makes good square contact with the end of the crankshaft. Then give the head of the bolt a solid thump from your hammer. Hand tighten again, and repeat until it's free.





R
 

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Boy...all three of these excellent responses can easily work. I get it now. Will let you know how I make out tomorrow. Thanks.

Johnny
 

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Ok...got the rotor off....finally!!! But now a few questions on my observations and also how to remove that timing chain! I do appreciate your patience with me, the "non" mechanic. Thanks.



I ended up using a strap wrench (thanks Blue Fox) to hold the rotor while I "screwed in" the puller bolt. Here's a pic of that lovely $10 bolt in place.





SO....here's what happened next...as the rotor was removed, a small little cylinder - offical name is a roller - and and little metal sleeve - offical name is a cap - came loose from the back side of the flywheel/rotor and tumbled off...leaving a little spring exposed. I studied the back side of the rotor/flywheel and noticed 2 other sets of rollers and caps that were still intact and in their correct position and reassembled the loose one. Slid the cap back on the spring, compressed it and set the roller back into it's little housing. There are 3 sets of these at 120 degress apart. One thing I noticed, that loose set had a much weaker spring in comparison to the other 2 sets and is probably is the reason it fell out of place. Should I replace that spring with a stronger one...assuming I can actually get it out? I placed the rotor into a large plastic bag to avoid any debris being picket up by the magnets (thanks Reg).



I went back to the starter gear and noticed it spun freely now in both directions. Before it spun freely but only in one direction. I noticed what Reg had referred to in his previous post about the starter "ridging", and that 650's were expecially known for this. I didn't know what in the heck he was referring to....but I do now! I've taken the next pic of what I believe is that ridging.Now I will say this pic below seems to indicate large ridges on the starter gear shaft, HOWEVER they are more visual than real. I would estimate they are no more than 1/3000th of an inch in depth...maybe only 1/5000th of an inch. You can bearly feel them when you rotate your finger around that shaft. I gather the ridging is caused by those "cylinders" I mentioned in the above paragraph that are located in the flywheel which slide slightly out of their respective housings and "lock up" against the starter shaft when the starter motor starts spining. That's why I could only spin this gear in one direction. When I spun in the direction to simulate the actual starter motor engaging, well it "locked up" just as it was supposed to with those little cylinders. What is acceptable "ridging"...and at what point would you need to replace or correct this...if you can correct it? I'm thinking I do not need to replace this part? Correct?





.

Lastly, how do I actually remove the timing chain? I have removed the little metal cover and also removed the automatic tensioner. I can't seem to remove the chain guide on the opposite side. The two bolts holding it come out easy, just that I can't seem to budge this guide at all? BTW, the automatic tensioner guide looks to be in as new condition. So, how do I get the chain off?



Thanks...Johnny
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Johnny the LH guide is a wee bit fiddly but if the bolts are

out you should be able to wiggle it off



To remove the chain you need to remove the 2 10mm headed bolts

on the spocket and pull it off along with the sprocket

BUT

I usually get mine to TDC on the LH hand compression stroke and ready to fit new

before I do this part

It can help avoid confusion



I've fitted 3 timing chains today

Same engine, I just wanted to take comparison pics of

new, used and shagged chains and the positions of the tensioner

and retainer ball for library purposes and future reference.

heres the new chain

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Johnny

Interesting to see the ridging effect on the starter roller thingy

I'd heard of it but not seen it

Another pic fot the library. Thanks.

The same part on this 500 motor was smooth as a babys bum

they dont seem to suffer like that



Edit:

Not sure, but I seem to recall someone had one of those

gear wheels breaking away from the roller part

Owww !
 

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Way to go, Johnny. I don't think I would worry about the "ridging" on the shaft. It doesn't appear to be serious. Mine was similar and I did order new springs and rollers from Honda, but didn't do anything else. Those rollers and springs will fall out even with new springs, so just be careful when you put it back together.



I would turn the camshaft gear until the bolts that hold it are horizontal, and the keyway on the crankshaft is at about 11:00 o'clock position. There are guides in the manuals as to exact reference positions for these two items. Then remove the two bolts holding the cam gear and the chain and gear will slide off towards you. Slip a new chain on, check the positions of the cam gear and crankshaft, put a little blue Locktite on the cam bolts and torque to specs.
 

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Reg & Blue Fox...the timing chain is off! Thanks for your help.



While I wait for a few new parts (my rewound stator should arrive Monday) I'll look to servicing my starter and polish up the aluminum. I've got to remove the old stator connector in the wiring harness and replace as it was not in the greatest of shape. Also, got to work on other stuff, like change the main fuse to the automotive type, get a new horn, look to replacing the dash lights...possibly looking to go LED. And mostly cleaning etc.



My next challenge will be the clutch. That will come out once I get everything else back in place.



I'll call it an end to this rotor removal thread.



Thanks again!



Johnny
 

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Keeping an eye peeled on this work, as I think I will be ready to pop mine off this week end if all goes well (have stator and chain, just waiting for mech seal). I will also take some pics as Im curious as to how the insides look on a bike that sat for 29 years :) ... and also so I dont screw up reassembly lol Gathering all the wifes freezer bags (dont tell her), plastic garbage bag for rotor, and some markers, tags etc so I lable everything as i get it off.
 

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Gathering all the wifes freezer bags (dont tell her), plastic garbage bag for rotor, and some markers, tags etc so I lable everything as i get it off.
I recommend that you consult the parts manual while you disassemble. On each label, include the page and item number. It will help immensely later on.





R
 

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Yea, plan on doing that, just have to check out the 3 manuals I have to see which best fits my bike (have to check to see if one shows TI, as I think they all show CDI). Will have to check the polo mint, as I did have this out when I originally did the bike and didnt know the faces were different (alas, wish I had found the forum BEFORE stripping down my bike lol).



Also want to see if I can drop out the engine and still leave the carb attached to the air box. Those airbox connections are the hardest thing I have done on my bike and last time it drove me nuts lol (took over 2 hours to get them both in the box).
 

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Yea, plan on doing that, just have to check out the 3 manuals I have to see which best fits my bike (have to check to see if one shows TI, as I think they all show CDI).
Download the '82 CX500C parts manual from GoogleDocs.



While you're there, if you don't have it already, download the CX500 Factory Service Manual, either as one file, or by chapter (a better scan, I believe.) It's much better than any of the aftermarket manuals. Be sure to check the '82 Addendum in Chapter 25.



Also want to see if I can drop out the engine and still leave the carb attached to the air box.
Disconnect the carbs at the heads. Some guys leave them in the frame, but I prefer to remove them first (but leave the boots attached to the airbox.)





R
 
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