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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, this is not good!

So I'm headed to bed and double checking the doors and such. Including the garage and this is what I find.
Why is this light on in the garage.jpg

As you can see the tail light is on. It wasn't on when I closed up the garage. :eek:
Spooky darkness.jpg

And as you may notice, keys are not on the bike.
Keys are hanging up.jpg

You'd think I'd notice that the the big ol' light was on. At least this might make it a little easier to diagnose the problem. Seems as if the tail light is hooked straight to battery. Hrmmm? I wonder how that happened.

Anyway, y'all have a good evening. And stay tuned for more exciting adventures of the now "Haunted, Mr. Ugly"!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, it looks like I fell for the "Leave the ignition in Park and drain your battery" routine. Thanks nolimitz, seems the mistake was mine.

198653

I wasn't aware that you could remove the key while in the Park position. Interestingly, the front lights didn't come on while in Park mode.

And more curious, is that the light didn't illuminate until after I had left the garage. So for some reason it isn't turning on right when the switch is put into the Park

position. Corrosion causing a bad connection with enough resistance to result in some type of delay maybe?

This got me thinking, what is the condition of the handlebar switch? Even though the rears work, the fronts are acting like a ground isn't happening .
198654


So this might explain some things. :eek:


And a close up of the switch itself.
198655



I'll clean this up and put it back on the bike. It might help with the headlight/low beam issue. But one item at a time.

And just so I'm not crazy, the fronts are supposed to blink as well correct?
 

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When in Park, only the tail light is on. Something else I found on my bike is that the accessory power that is under the seat is also powered on when in Park.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
OMG. Self Inflicted wounds are the worst.

So, the saga of the non-working front blinkers have been solved. And the culprit is robotdog in the garage with a screwdriver (JIS).

Seems that this is an important ground connection.
198690


This is the ground in the Headlight bucket that eventually ties back to the front blinkers. If you don't ground this part of the circuit, you''ll end up chasing your tail for awhile.

So I pulled the bucket off to make it easier to work on the cluster of wiring, as you can see it was pretty cruddy as was the loom/bundle itself. So I pulled the headlight, and bucket off the bike and cleaned up the wiring. This was my big mistake.

The way that I found this was I was trying isolate the "Park" circuit and I happened to touch the O/W wire to the ear where the bucket bolts to. A single flash is all it took to make me realize that I was the architect of my own undoing.

The second, although minor issue was the intermittent tail light that wouldn't light up in the "On" position, but worked consistently in the "Park" position. Again, another happenstance helped track this one down. I was turning the key from the Park position to the On position and the tail light flickered. Aha. The ignition switch has always been a little suspect from the beginning. It was a bit sticky when going through each of the positions. So I pulled it off the bike. And as par for the course, found some more spider webs hanging out around the barrel and triple clamp. In that little plastic "cover". Not sure why that would be a good place to have a spider web, but there were several old egg sacks there, so it had been a home for awhile.

Anyways, the ignition is back together after cleaning up the ignition barrel and putting some dielectric grease on the connector. Problem solved.

And just in time.... the tires arrived.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Tires installed.
Nothing special here, no real issues, aside from the rear end was a little rusty. I don't think that the grease was ever changed. So I cleaned up the old grease and removed as much of the surface rust as possible. Didn't see any real impact, mainly surface blemishing.

The rest of this post mainly just pics.


Here are the original tires, off the bike.
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Here is a pic of the flange, cleaned up somewhat.
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Tires have been installed, cleanest that they will ever be...
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the back tire installed.
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And the front tire installed
198727
 

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What size rear tire is that? It looks beefy.
 

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130/90-16 Tourmaster from the photo.
 

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I've got a '78 and the rear almost looks like a moped tire compared to modern bikes... :p The 16's definitely look wider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Relic is correct.

Shinko 230 Tour Master 130/90-16 Rear Tire

Shinko 230 Tour Master 100/90-19 Front Tire

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I had to let the air out in order to install it on the bike.

They were recommended on the forums, hope the work out well.

At least they will be better than the 20yro tires the bike had on it. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
It's been a bit, but rest assured the bike is moving forward.....

We are mostly back together....
198977


Here are the left over fasteners that I have to find a home for...I'll put this into another thread since I'm gonna need some help identifying where they go
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I'm also missing some fasteners, like all of the tank bolts

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sides --
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And the rear fender bolts (as well as the hold down bracket that goes underneath)
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One of the screws(bolts) for the air box clamp is being used for the battery hold down pin....

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Do you think that this air filter is still good? I'm thinking I could scrape of the old sealing foam and glue some new stuff back on. Should be good right?
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Biggest remaining task is to clean/flush the tank. It really wasn't too bad and the gas that came out of it was still usable (lawnmower) . I've filled it with Vinegar and will then go ahead and seal it with some POR 15. Mainly for peace of mind.
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As you can see there are a couple of dents and the paint is a little rough, but until I decide on the final direction of the bike I'll reuse this tank.
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After this is done, I'll do a shakedown run and see where she's at and go from there. So I'm hoping next month to have it inspected and registered. And then the fun can begin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
A quick peek inside the tank before I started the sealing process (have to wait 4 days, or so)

199005


Looks pretty good in there.

It wasn't really bad to begin with, though I started with 3 gallons of White Vinegar (Extra Strength - 9% vs 5%). I let that sit for 3 days. It really cleaned out the big stuff. I was surprised with all of the rust and junk that came out. I then went through the POR-15 process which involves some more "Degreasing" and the Metal Prep. I rattled some nuts in there while it was working its magic. By the time this was finished, it was pretty clean inside. So after applying the POR-15 sealer, I just have to wait.

This is the last thing before I roll it out to the driveway and see if it will scoot under its own power down the street.

One thing that I found inside the tank but wasn't expecting...

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That is a stone.

It took me quite a while to get it out. It was wedged in there pretty good.... didn't make a sound. I wouldn't have know it was in there, if I hadn't decided to pull out the boroscope . It finally came loose while I was drying out the inside, I think the hot air caused the tank seam to expand a little. And maybe the sunny day. :)

Here are a couple more pics from the inside.

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and second one, further inside.

199008
 

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I know a lot of people talk great about POR-15 for sealing a tank, but I've also heard of and seen pictures of it failing. What a mess and looked aggravating to fix. Granted, probably wasn't installed properly but I don't know for sure. I just wouldn't do it unless it was a last resort to making a tank usable. I don't think it was ever intended to be used for extra protection, it was to make a rusty tank usable and hopefully not get worse. My 2 cents. I'm sure others disagree.
 

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My experience is limited but I Por15 lined my 500C tank 12 years ago and it's still good. More recently I lined the thingys tank with the rest of the can. That's a good shelf life for an open can.

Having said that I agree with Doug.

Everything has risks and consequences which says to me if you don't need to take an action - don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hey Gents, great information. I agree with you, after I cleaned up the tank I probably didn't need go much further. It did look super clean and that was probably because I worked extra hard to make sure that I got it as clean as I could. Now with that being said, I am confident that the fuel tank will not be a part of any future system issues.

If I've "installed" this modification/upgrade correctly, it should enhance the performance of the project going forward. I believe that 40 year old machines can be helped by the latest in technology and techniques in order to improve the enjoyment of the end result. All part of progress, I guess.

I can definitely recommend the product/process so far. It was easy to follow with good directions, allowing me to focus on getting the inside as clean as possible. We shall see if I'm happy with it a few months from now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well....
< INSERT HERE: cool "walk around" video of running bike in driveway>

as noted above, the bike is up and running. I've driven around the neighborhood for about 4.5 miles and it hasn't dumped me off or broken down or exploded.

There is still some more work to do, such as adjusting the rear brake and brake lever. Bleeding the Front brake (not happy with the overall stopping performance), Adjusting the clutch. Synching and adjusting the carbs , adjust the headlight (way out of adjustment), change the oil, replace/fix the tach, fix the temp guage (7v regulator) and revisit/tighten all of the bolts/ screws/etc.

It still needs some mirrors and the "horn stay", which is the horn bracket.

Once I have finished the maintenance and add the last two items , it will pass Texas inspection. So when appropriate, I'll get it registered for street use.

At that point, we will determine the next direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Ok now the bike is roadworthy, at least as far as TX is concerned. I've passed the state inspection. I've put about 23 miles on the bike, if the ODOmeter is to be believed. I'm not trusting the speed indicated by the speedometer though. It seems very slow to respond to speed increases. I haven't verified any of this yet.

The temp gauge saga was the biggest hurdle. Turns out the 7v regulator is good and the sending unit is fine as is the gauge (accuracy not verified). All tends to run on the cooler side which I've double checked with a IR thermometer.

The real culprit has been the wiring harness itself, who'd a guess that. The infamous green/blue wire had been mysteriously cut.


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Once I realized that the green wire had a stripe (it is very hard to see when it becomes this faded), I knew right away what the issue was. So i grafted on a stock wire (green) with bullet connector, plugged it in, fired it up and voila, working temp gauge.

Throwing in the wiring diagram, in case it helps anyone else in the future.
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Changed the oil, and bled the front brake. installed a horn (had to locate a horn bracket from ebay). added a couple of poorly functioning mirrors, they are two short to be useful, especially since you can't adjust them.... much better to turn your head.


I've had it over 50mph. well, at least I think that I have. It was run in top gear around 6,000 RPMs, so I'm figuring that should be a good estimate. That and the speedo said 55 and I was getting passed by cars on occasion.

The front end needs some work. Forks most likely don't have any fluid and there is some clunking from the triple tree area. I may wait on this and see if I can score some more modern forks. I hear that GXSR front ends fit pretty easy. It would be nice to have something from this century. :)
 
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