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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I guess it is official, this has turned into a real project now.

I was mainly going to use this as a parts bike, but I've been convinced to actually get it up and running real proper.

I've gone through the first few steps of getting it to run. Oil in the cylinders, boroscope the cylinders, New battery, new battery cable (OP had used an alligator for one end of a fuse holder), crank engine and verify spark.

At this point the engine doesn't run, which is pretty obvious when you see the bike (on the right in profile pic) . When I got it, the bike was partially disassembled. it came with most of the parts, including a box with the removed fasteners and hoses. Other than that nothing major was missing.

The carbs weren't properly hooked up, only one of the throttle cables was attached and all of the fuel lines were removed.


So... time to rebuild the carbs

82 carbs on my 79 - Copy.jpg

As you can see, the carbs were from 1982, if I've interpreted the list correctly. And you might have noticed the non-JIS attachment hardware. By the way, does anyone know if this is a complete set to buy or just trial and error?
Carb bolt set - Copy.jpg


I ran into some "issues" lots of rust
Rusty Air valve.jpg
Both Carbs - Rusty  air valve.jpg

But otherwise not a lot of problems. I spent a lot of time with Larry's book and the ultrasonic cleaner. There was rust on some of the external parts of the carbs and the adjuster screw (black knob) for the idle was bent. internally, the carbs had been sitting for a long time and all jets and tubes were corroded. These were cleaned up and either replaced with stock (jets) or reinstalled. I also replaced all the rubber parts (acc. pump and air valves, etc).

here are the old parts.

Old Carb parts - Copy.jpg



Put everything back together and while cleaning things up i noticed this note.
Left Intake flange - Copy.jpg
Maybe they got tired of figuring it out where each one went.


Lubed the cables since they were really stiff and cleaned out the run switch, since I was in there already. :) connected the new battery.
Added a makeshift fuel tank and filled the carbs.... and leaks.

Seems like I've got a bad needle valve. Won't let this stop me, so I clamped off the fuel, cleaned up the gas (still smells like gas in the garage), twisted the throttle a couple of times and hit the start button.

The bike coughed a couple of time and wouldn't start. So I waited a few moments and tried it again, and it started right up.

Some things I noticed right away, the right cylinder exhaust isn't hooked up (missing a nut) so I was getting a leak. and the oil light wasn't going out. So I shut it down right away.

At this point I was super happy it ran and it sounded healthy. I was a little concerned about the oil light, since when I was testing it previously the oil light did go out when I spun the engine with the starter. So I checked the oil level and it was fine. Try again?

Sure why not.... turned the key off and pulled it out, reinserted it and turned it on. Made sure the kill switch is in the run position and pushed the start button. Started right up and the oil light went off right away. So I let it run for a few minutes, enough for both exhaust pipes to get warm to the touch.

I looked for smoke from the rear and didn't see anything, so I revved it a few times and no strange noises (ticking, clattering, etc) and it all sounded good. So I shut it down and disconnected the battery. Happy the engine runs, but annoyed that the carb leaks. I'll look at this weekend.

Oh, and we have decided to name this bike "Mr. Ugly." :D
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So couldn't wait until the weekend and jumped into the garage and fixed the carbs. Installed the previous float and valve and then bench tested it. no leakage.Time to install on the bike.
Everything is easier the second time around. or is it "if you have time to it twice, then you have time to do it right?" anyways, no leaks on the bike. Decided to let it run for a while make sure the carbs idle fine and that it revs a bit. Also wanted to see it get up to temperature.

Discovered a few things.
- Temp gauge doesn't work
- Idiot lights are intermittent (Neutral and Oil)
- Fan is making an awful racket, like a jet engine whine almost.
- Turn signals dont flash
- leakage from the Weep Hole
- Front tire is 20 years old
- Can't tell how old the rear tire is, some very old bias ply tire.
- No fluid in the braking system (MC or otherwise)

I'll have some pics this weekend. I've got some planning to do. I'm not sure what direction I plan on going with this thing, as it needs a lot of work. However there is only 11k miles, which might mean that there is a good starting point for some customization. The bike is pretty neglected in the looks department (hence the name), so not worried about keeping it stock. We'll see how it goes.
 

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There is a chance that the mechanical seal will seal again after a bit of running.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is a chance that the mechanical seal will seal again after a bit of running.
Thanks reclined, that is my thinking as well. I'm going to keep an eye on it, but it will be a couple of months before I can get this on the road due to the sad state that it is in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good oil and bad tires. redeux? redo??

Thanks reclined, that is my thinking as well. I'm going to keep an eye on it, but it will be a couple of months before I can get this on the road due to the sad state that it is in.

Surprisingly the oil (and coolant) are at good levels and have the proper color.
Oil looks good - Copy.jpg

Next step is the brakes MC and caliper rebuild with fresh pads along with new tires.

The old ones are pretty, well .... old.
Made in 1999 - Copy.jpg

Anyone ever hear of this old Dunlop model? I heard Dunlop makes the best MC tires, so these might still be good right?
Old Dunlop tire - Copy.jpg

And... this ancient Bias ply (4 ply, btw) Made in Taiwan specimen. ;-)
Bias play tire - rear - Copy.jpg

Time to search the archives for tires and brake parts.
Y'all have a Merry Christmas or in the very least enjoy some time away from work.

-RD
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Master Cylinder Rebuild part 1

Hi everyone, hope y'all had a good holiday break. I didn't spend much time on the bike, had to pay my dues with the family. Need to earn those "garage credits" somehow. ;-)

Anyways, this past week I've been working on the Master Cylinder. This bike hasn't had fluid in the braking system for the last 3 or more years, nearly I can figure out.

Here is the MC on the bike, the brake lever was all floppy because the piston/valve was locked solid in the bore of the MC body.
MC looking rough - Copy.jpg

And here it is on the bench, the paint is flaking off, the reservoir screws are rusted and the piston is not moving due to no fluid.
MC on the bench - Copy.jpg

The first item on the list was to get the lid off the reservoir and see what we were looking at, not looking forward to this.
reservoir cover removed - busted screws - Copy.jpg

Two of the screws came out reasonably well, however they seemed a little bent or maybe, resistant to turn. the other two were next level effort. The screws were stripped and rusted. I was going to have to drill them out.
And break off the heads.
reservoir with busted screws - Copy.jpg

At this point I was able to pry off the plastic reservoir from the MC body. It is a tight fit including an O ring, which in a pinch might be serviceable. However it was a mess inside. The fluid had turned to powder and I had a heck of a time cleaning it out.
reservoir up close - Copy.jpg

After cleaning out the larger portions of crud, I disassembled it and stuck it in the Ultra Sonic for an hour.
Here is the complete disassembly.just before the ultrasonic.
Master cylinder disassembled - Copy.jpg

I cleaned up all of the rust from the outside of the reservoir cover and any where else I could see, including screws and plastics. I used scotch bright and WD 40 on the chrome surround and top cover. Seemed to work well but it had already pitted pretty bad.

I used a dremel with a scotch brite or brass wire attachment. this seemed to get everything out of the inside of the MC body.
Cleaned up - finally - Copy.jpg

I've ordered the rebuild kit and it comes with all of the parts on the inside of the MC, piston, cup, spring, bellows, o rings. So I'll have a quick update when I get that back together.

and this will be part 2 of this little mini saga.
caliper next on the list - Copy.jpg

By the way, if you have any suggestions on cleaning/rebuilding/repairing/tips on this part of the build, please let me know. I'd hate to miss something obvious and have to redo my work.
 

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Get a can of Pb Blaster for those rusty, stuck nuts and bolts. It's great stuff. WD40 is pretty worth less. Just my 2 cents (and many disagree) but I would not bother to rebuild a MC. the cost of a kit and the time and effort is about the same as a new replacement?? I would get new seals for the caliper rebuild and cleaning. If the piston is pitted replace as well. reusing 35 yr old rubber parts just aint worth it. Also get rid of that brake line. Most replace w/ braided SS lines
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Get a can of Pb Blaster for those rusty, stuck nuts and bolts. It's great stuff. WD40 is pretty worth less.
I use PB for breaking things loose. I also have some Liquid Wrench, which works just as well. WD works on certain scenarios, especially where there isn't as much rust/corrosion, it seems to be gentler.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
How come you don't notice the broken things until you start to put everything you just fixed back together.

Seems as if the brake caliper bracket is rubbing on the rotor (disk).
Bracket interference - noctice the gap.jpg

This is from the backside, notice the shiny part of the disk.
Bracket backside - better.jpg

I checked it with caliper attached and without...
Bracket and no Caliper.jpg

Just to make sure I didn't screw anything up. Besides not noticing that it was dragging.

On this bike the brakes never worked, in fact the brake lever was just flopping around on the bar. So I never even glanced at the caliper, just assumed that I would be rebuilding it along with the MC.

Anyways... looks like I'm going to have to take the wheel off and see if the OP improperly reinstalled it.

If you look at this thread, you'll see that Seadoobie has a similar problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your pictures don’t show up. They do on your previous posts but not your last post.
thanks Doug, should be corrected. However, not sure how to excise the overly large attachment. My apologies to those on smallish devices.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wheel and Brake problems

Well, I've found out what the problem is with the caliper bracket. The PO didn't install the wheel properly, it is missing the washer #17 in the diagram I think. However I don't think that is the whole story. There is a notch on the Speedometer Gear housing that interfaces with a notch on the Fork. This allows you to move the wheel closer to the fork, which makes room for the disk in the caliper bracket.


Notch on the Speedometer Gear Housing.
Speedometer Gear with Notch - Angle.jpg

Locating tab on the fork.
Fork with Notch - close up.jpg

I've tested fitted everything and we are good to go, however I can't leave it in this condition. Time to repack the bearings with new grease before it all goes back together. I'm sure that this grease has been in there for multiple decades. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Front brakes are complete

The wheel/caliper are on and everything seems to be functioning properly. The disc doesn't touch the bracket and the whole operation stops the wheel when it is spun by hand. I don't have any leaks but I think I need to bleed it some more. It is a little soft compared to my other bikes lever feel. However, that really isn't a fair comparison. ;-)

Quick shot of the caliper, and yes it needs some paint. First I need to get it on the road.
Caliper close up.jpg

The Master Cylinder went together without any issues and holds fluid, still using original O-ring for the reservoir.
Master Cylinder close up - level full.jpg

However, now that my attention is been focused on the wheel/brakes, I've come to notice that something is a bit off. See if you notice it.
Crooked Fender - or wheel.jpg

Here is a second look, in case you didn't notice at first. ;-)
Crooked Fender - close up.jpg



To me it looks a bit crooked. The Fender that is. Since I'm going to have to replace the tires, I'll take a look more closely with the wheel off. I'm hoping it isn't the wheel, but I couldn't really tell with that crappy 20 year old tire.

time to research some tire options and then dig into the electrical issue. Turn signals/flashers don't blink.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In post 2 I outlined some of the items that needed work, including the fan and intermittent oil light.

Last weekend I pulled all the bulbs in the dash and replaced them. Just on principle. One of them was opaque, surprising that it still light up. since these looked original it was cheap insurance. Still didn't correct the intermittent light. Since this was affecting my peace of mind, I needed to get to the bottom of the issue.

The outside of the sensor was kind of corroded which probably affected the ground, which I discovered while testing on the bike. If I loosened the sending unit and touched the threads it seemed to produce proper readings. Touching the body, would give unpredictable results. So I pulled the sending unit and started bench testing it. I hooked it up to the multi meter and a syringe. Cleaning up the outside of the body and repeated cleaning out the orifice seemed to produce more predictable results. However, I still ordered a replacement... for peace of mind.

The "fan noise" on the other hand, not fixed. Turns out it is the tachometer. Makes a hell of a racket. That unit is totally FUBAR'd. The temp sensor inside never moved while running the bike but I'm chalking it up to the 7v regulator, since it is in two pieces. The outer cover has come off and was just zip tied together by the PO.

Now that the fan isn't broken, I can cross that off my list right? ;-)
 

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You have braided lines so your front brake should bleed up with a rock hard lever with minimal movement to engage the brakes. None of mine have any excess travel.

More bleeding. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You have braided lines so your front brake should bleed up with a rock hard lever with minimal movement to engage the brakes. None of mine have any excess travel.

More bleeding. ;)

Yep, I've taken the lazy way out. I've used a bungie cord to hold the brake lever overnight. Surprised at the difference it has made already. For now, it is going to have to be good enough. The bike isn't ready to move off the center stand.

Need to move onto the electrics....starting with turn signals/flasher.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Chasing the blinking lights

So, today I've started the process of getting the lights/electrical up to snuff. Current issues mainly stem around the fact that the only light that blinks is the left rear. It also makes the dash light blink as well. So that part of the circuit is probably working fine. The Right rear never comes on and the dash light stays lit. I've also have an issue with the low beam circuit and the tail/brake light. First things first however, lets see if we can figure out the blinker problem.

First thing I check was the flasher, it is pretty old and the PO had it secured with zip ties. In fact everything had a zip tie around it for some reason, ugh. Nothing says "look for problem here" more than a zip tie. The flasher was pretty old and had some corrosion on, however it allowed the left rear to blink and 12 volts was getting to the rear, so it is not the culprit.

next step was to pull the bulbs and check to make sure that they worked. All bulbs were good. So.... crap. At this point I'm chasing a ground/wire issue. So I started with the easy parts and in the general area of the problem. I disconnected all of the wiring from rear turn signals and brake lights. If your not familiar, it is very easy since there are only a half dozen wires to worry about. My thinking is that I needed to see if there was power (12 volts) getting to where it was supposed to be. The left side was working and as you can imagine power was getting to the appropriate connection. I used a test light for quick verification and then followed up with a DVOM. I also checked for continuity as well, even though it wasn't needed. This was all as expected.

On to the right side. I hooked up the test light and the bulb was very dim. Aha! A clue. Since I had started with the ground side it had to be isolated to that part of the circuit. I checked the black wire (power) to that side and the light was bright. Verified with DVOM as well, battery voltage. OK. so now we know that the problem is between here and the ground. I used the DVOM to check for continuity and it was very inconsistent, depending on where I tested in the circuit. It was fine up until the bulb and problematic after the bulb. I noticed while testing that the inside of the bulb holder/connector had some rust/corrosion, so I pulled the taillight assembly out and took it all apart.

It turns out that the inside of the housing and the washer/spring had a bunch of rust.
Rusty bulb connection - Copy.jpg

I'm sure that this is what was causing the most of my problem. I used some PB blaster to get out as much as I could. then took a dremel and a wire wheel (very small) to clean out the remaining corrosion. I put it back together adding some dielectric grease to applicable places and bolted it back up to the bike. Test light and continuity testing looked good. Seemed to have fixed that part of the problem

Here is what the inside looked like.
Rusty inside the housing as well - Copy.jpg

So now by this point, the rear signals work properly and the lights on the dash correspond with the turn signals. However, the front lights still aren't working. The go dark when the turn signal is turned on. At least I know where to focus now. I had to pull the headlight. I was going to have to anyway, because the low beams weren't working either. But before I dove into the "mess in the bucket", I wanted to make sure that the rear was buttoned up properly. This meant testing the tail light/ brake light.

Pulling the front lever didn't turn on the brake light as expected. I haven't looked at the rear brake switch because I know it sin't working since I saw it dangling near the rear tire previously. First things first, however. Check to make sure the switch in the MC is working. Checked the black for power, test light glowed. Plugged in that wire to the switch and tested for power on the other terminal. No light, as expected. I then squeezed the lever and the light comes on. So, switch is working. So again, there is a problem a ground. Need to look at the connections at the rear. Well, it was pretty easy to find. Seems I hadn't connected the tail light ground up when I was finished testing the blinker problem. connected it up, squeezed the lever and voila.... there as a brake light. I also checked for "running lights" which is what I'm calling the DIM lights when the bike is in the ON position. All seemed good. We'll worry about the rear brake later, when I actually put that part back together.:rolleyes:

Ok, now that the back is done. focus on the front.

Pulled it apart, disconnected the wiring while looking for signs that the PO had been inside. The only thing I really noticed was the 7v regulator was attached with a "bread wrapper tie". and that it was in two pieces.
Vultage regulator held on by bread tie - Copy.jpg

Aside from that , there were no signs of chicanery from past owners, so I cleaned up mess by disconnecting everything and cleaning the 40 years of crud off the harness/wiring. I ran a jumper wire to the ground wire that is normally connected to the bucket, just to make sure I have a perfect ground. LOL. However at this point I was hungry and left it as it was and went and got dinner. While I was out I picked up some new bulbs (1157 - brake light, front signals in a pinch) and a new flasher, ideally something that wasn't over 20 years old. None of the stores had 1073 or 1034 bulbs, so I'll have to order those online. Since I checked each of the bulbs for continuity, I'm thinking that the problem is elsewhere. It is also interesting to note that the "Park' position doesn't turn on the lights as well. And to double check, I did insert one of the 1157 bulbs into the front signal but no change. Time to stop and pick it up later. Gotta take my successes where I can. :cool:

At this point, I still need to diagnose/debug the front turn signal circuits. Since it is affecting both left and right and "Park", it should be pretty easy to find.

I have a couple of questions however.

First, I'm assuming that when in the Park position the rear signals don't illuminate. Is this correct?
Second, does the tail light illuminate? from reading the schematic it looks like it does. I think that I still have an issue with the tail light (brake light seems fixed)
Third, can someone point out if there is any connection or what the point of this connector is? (It is the brown wires coming together in a single connector, on the right side of the picture) The Schematic has it related to the tail light (only Brown wires), however I don't understand the need for the connection.
Brown wire and broken green - Copy.jpg

Also, it looks like the green wire (ground) should be part of the that existing ground connection (middle of picture).

Y'all thoughts would be helpful here, otherwise I'll have to stumble around, poking and prodding until I get it to work. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Side note, since I'm moving along fairly well with the project. I ordered some tires. I went with the general purpose type that wasn't too expensive since I'm not sure where I'm going to take this project.

Shinko 230 Tour Master 130/90-16 Rear Tire
Shinko 230 Tour Master 100/90-19 Front Tire

I'm fairly confident that theses are the correct sizes.
I paid $130 USD for the set and should be here later in the week.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Punch list items

This is mainly just a running tally of things left for me to do. The short term goal is to get the bike safe to ride and then pass Texas inspection. At that point, I'll mess around with it and decide what to do next.

  • install tires
  • Fix front blinkers
  • Fix rear brakes, including brake light switch
  • investigate/fix "howling tachometer"
  • Verify the temperature gauge works, fix if broken
  • Install air box and attach "box o' bolts"
  • Buy and install horn
  • Fork seals
  • Need to get a mirror and install
Not sure, but I don't think these bikes came with a license plate lamp. Wonder how that will go. ;-)


BTW, here is the criteria for the Texas Inspection (if curious):

Items of Inspection for a Motorcycle and Motor-Driven Cycle
05.07 Inspect Every Motorcycle and Motor-Driven Cycle For: (listed in suggested order of inspection)

* Check for evidence of Financial Responsibility

1. Horn
2. Mirror
3. Steering
4. Brakes (system)
5. Tires
6. Wheel Assembly
7. Exhaust System
8. Tail Lamp (1)
9. Stop Lamp (1)
10. License Plate Lamp
11. Rear Red Reflector (1)
12. Head Lamp (1)
13. Motor, Serial, or Vehicle Identification Number

Definitions:

Motorcycle: Every motor vehicle having a saddle for the use of the rider and designed to propel itself with not more than three wheels in contact with the ground but excluding a tractor.

Motor-Driven Cycle: Every motorcycle with a motor which has an engine piston displacement of not more than 125cc.
 
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