[Sammee3]

Story time!

Decided to do something about the mechanical seal on my bike. Dropped the engine, opened her up, extracted the old seals...

Couldn't find a replacement rear cover gasket. Bad timing, I suppose.

Not to be discouraged, I decided to check a few other things while waiting for a listing. Snapped a couple bolts while replacing the clutch cover. Cried. Still couldn't find a gasket.

Winter... came (California winter). Put everything away for about 8 months. Cried a bit. Acquired a new bike in the meantime ('08 Ninja 250 that I hate working on...).

Finally located a gasket and bolts. Pulled everything together over the past month, alternating between sitting on my butt waiting for parts and completely neglecting my personal health to get everything back together.

Engine is back in the frame. New stator, new seals, new gaskets, Rae San Pickup (not new; did that a few years ago). Fluids replaced. Carbs are doing their jobs. Compression is good. Timings adjusted.

No spark, either side. Tried searching for help; Motofaction seems to be a dead end, Haynes manual is mostly irrelevant with the new pickups, forum threads all seem to be about CDI bikes and/or replacing the ignition coils with 'Ignitech' pieces. Mine is TI and I'm using the stock coils.

I've stuck a multimeter in various places, checking for continuity and resistances in logical places; everything seems to be wired up correctly. Obviously not, though. Shutoff switch is working correctly, and yes, I do have it turned on.

I'm probably missing something obvious here. Or I just need to sleep on it. Possibly both.

Any help and advice will be appreciated; I'm at my wit's end here...

Thanks in advance,
Sam

 

[Sammee3]

Spoiler: Edit: Pics

 

[Tombat]

Have you run through Ray’s troubleshooting flowchart? Helped me.

 

[Sammee3]

Have you run through Ray’s troubleshooting flowchart? Helped me.

Unless I'm looking at the wrong one, the solution to my problem (no spark) is to swap the GY-6 modules... which I don't have. So... dead end?

 

[nolimitz]

just curious why you put a hall effect in a Ti? Was your pulse generator bad?

#6 here:
Honda Motorcycle 1982 OEM Parts Diagram for Water Pump / Pulse Generator | Partzilla.com

 

[Sammee3]

just curious why you put a hall effect in a Ti? Was your pulse generator bad?

#6 here:
Honda Motorcycle 1982 OEM Parts Diagram for Water Pump / Pulse Generator | Partzilla.com

It's been a few years since I did the swap, but yes, I remember testing the old pulser and learning that it was bad. I'd been having intermittent problems for about a year, and I eventually traced it to the pulsers. Problem vanished after the swap.

 

[nolimitz]

contact Ray here via PM. you may have a bad hall plate. It happened to a friend here and Ray sent a replacement. He is very good about failed units and providing support

 

[Rayman]

confused as to why the NEC modules are still present -
do you have the metal box TAI version, or the all in one PCB-hall pickup in the rear of the engine -
are the lights flashing on the hall board -
if not thne no power to the hall unit.

Rayman

 

[Sammee3]

confused as to why the NEC modules are still present -
do you have the metal box TAI version, or the all in one PCB-hall pickup in the rear of the engine -
are the lights flashing on the hall board -
if not thne no power to the hall unit.

Rayman

Unless I'm seriously mistaken, I believe I have the all-in-one version. I received an aluminum rotor+magnet and a PCB. When I tested it engine-out, the lights were all turning on and off at the appropriate intervals. If I need to, I can attempt the fabled engine-in check tomorrow...

The NEC modules are still present because I wasn't sure if I should remove them, and even if they're not needed, there's no point cluttering up my already limited storage space with pieces that I can leave on the bike without penalty. Is there a legitimate reason to remove them?

 

[Rayman]

no need to remove them - just needed to check they weren't in use in some strange way

 

[Sammee3]

Okay. New day, decent sleep. Didn't magically fix itself overnight, which is probably a good thing.

However, before I go trying to remove the pulser cover with the engine in the bike (looks like fun...), I thought I'd try something easier:

Spoiler: Multimeter Tests, Take 1

Let me know if this is helpful or if there's something else I should test.

 

[reclinedrelic]

I would think that voltage readings would be more informative than resistance readings.

 

[Sammee3]

Can do.

Spoiler: Multimeter Tests, Take 2

 

[Rayman]

why does the balck wire / white stripe show two different voltages - it should be powering the hall pickup - but is showing 0.11 V
that would be a problem ...

Rayman

 

[Sammee3]

why does the balck wire / white stripe show two different voltages - it should be powering the hall pickup - but is showing 0.11 V
that would be a problem ...

Rayman

If you're referring to the 12.48V reading in the top row, that's just the system voltage at the battery as reference. As for the Red-Black/White connection (0.11V), that had me suspicious, too. Is there something I can do to test the system further without pulling the bike apart again?

 

[Rayman]

the black with white strips should be the ignition power circuit for the bike and should all be connected - from the kill switch -
maybe check coitinuity and the fuses to start with - it looks like there isn o power to the hall pickup from that - but theres not a lot to work from.

Rayman

 

[Sammee3]

I'm probably missing something obvious here. Or I just need to sleep on it. Possibly both.

Spoiler: And the winner is...

Runs like a champ now. I'll have to finish testing tomorrow after I finish putting everything back together.

Thank you all for the help anyway,
Sam

 

[Rayman]

ah ha !
good to hear.
Rayman