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Shep



i think I can get those same ones from eBay just gonna take a while. Can't buy just one though gotta buy ten. :/



anybody need some?



This is what I'm gonna get: (shep let me know if this is what you have)



http://iphone.ebay.com/Pages/ViewIt...l?ViewItem&item=260572910354&autoredirect=off




Yes and or these



http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Temperature-...466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41520b779a



I actually cut off the little spinny thing on these type that my 1st one didn't have just to make them easier to bond on.Don't forget some thermal grease.Just a light smear/blob in the middle like fitting a CPU to a Heatsink in a PC,



http://cgi.ebay.com/Thermal-Grease-...118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad7bbab1e
 

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I bought my theremal switch at a local appliance supply store as in commerical appliance replacement parts not where one would go to buy a washer or dryer. My place was called APPCO. It's also adjustable from 140F to 180F.

I went to a radiator shop today the guy said he'd mount it on the radaitor coils as it woud be hotter there. At the Honda dealer they told me a modern Goldwing runs temps like a modern automobile opens at 220F

Edit; oh yeah my switch was about $16.00

Cheers, 50gary
 

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I bought my theremal switch at a local appliance supply store as in commerical appliance replacement parts not where one would go to buy a washer or dryer. My place was called APPCO. It's also adjustable from 140F to 180F.

I went to a radiator shop today the guy said he'd mount it on the radaitor coils as it woud be hotter there. At the Honda dealer they told me a modern Goldwing runs temps like a modern automobile opens at 220F

Edit; oh yeah my switch was about $16.00

Cheers, 50gary


Check your manual.The thermostat opening temp is in there.It's 82 Deg C/180 Deg F fully open.Don't listen to,"Hearsay" when the facts are easy to see and test in a pan of boiling water with a thermometer.
 

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I have done this mod and I have spoken about it on here in another thread.



I used a small fan off ebay and a 12v switch with a red led to tell me when the fan is on.



I didnt need to cut the end of the camshaft. Dont rush into doing that if you dont need to. If you are using a slim fan there should be enough room. I trial fitted the rad and fan first to make sure the camshaft was clear.



I havent bothered with a thermo switch as I dont trust them (bad experiences
)and with the type of climate we get in Ireland I hardly ever use the fan. I never need it on the move and only in really heavy traffic will I switch it on for a minute.



Good luck with it.
 

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I have a 90-93 ZX6 fan on the way (too bad it's not the whole bike
) ... will report back once I get it on there. Currently with no fan, I have to avoid getting stuck in traffic
 

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got my fan installed on the rad this weekend. Just got my temp switch today. I will be installing Thursday evening.



Will report back after then!


If it's a 75 Deg C one and you want to fully fill the Radiator don't use thermal grease and perhaps slip a small circle of say cardboard between the switch and the Radiator and then bond it.I only fill the rad about 3/4" to an 1" above the cores but some may want to fully fill and is so the 75 Deg C N/O switch will not turn off the fan.

My fans switch on just before the centre position on the temp gauge with the above level of coolant in the system.Doing the above will make the fan come on a little later but should allow it to switch off with a Full Radiator.



See this thread,



http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/1228-mech-fan-came-apart-and-puncured-the-radiator/



In effect adapt to suit your needs.
 

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I ran a 12v+ from the black ignition wire spliced into near the air filter but I would think taking it from the Temp regulator supply is fine.

I normally only fill as stated but because of the recent thread on my claims that in a well serviced Rad and cooling system since the overflow system doesn't get used much if any last Friday I filled my Rad right up.I've done over 150 hard and fast miles over the weekend and my Overflow bottle has still not been used.

All parts of my cooling system checked and are nominal.However this meant my cooling fan was on all the time so I've gone back to my normal inch above the cores level and all back to normal.

My Radiators have been left to soak in a sink full of white vinegar overnight in the past and then mega flushed or as I use now boiled Citrus acid mixture and poured into the sink and left overnight to clean out the cores and mega flushed with clean water.

Even under sustained high speed riding my temp gauge needles sits on or very slightly above the nominal mark even on the hottest days.I NEVER trust the overflow bottle to tell me the level in the cooling system.
 

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Sooooo whats the best way to tell coolant level, besides measuring from dry?


Top up to above the fins.Run engine until thermostat opens,coolant flows over fins.Then top up to what you want.After that just keep an eye on the temp gauge.Once you know your average air-cooled running temp the if the needle is running higher than you know it should I check by taking the rad cap off.This is nothing really to do with the Electric fan or Mechanical fan.

My 1st conversion has been running over 18 months and only once did I have a too low level in the Radiator but it my own fault as I had not secured a Rad hose properly so started a slight leak on a ride which I noticed by my temp gauge reading high after I had done some head work.

Because the Efan is a modification I've become a bit more concious of my engine temps as I know what should be and what should not when the engine's are running sweet.
 
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