now that you have removed the air box the next thing you need to do is immediately put it right back on the bike and punch yourself in the stomach. i pulled mine off last year and just now got the bike to run correctly. are you planning on putting in air pods? if you do get the uni pods. the cheap ass generic ones are too loose and let through too much air which is the battle i just got done fighting. did you just take the box off to get the to the carbs? you need to take the manifolds loose at the head then loosen the band clamps that hold the rubber ends to the carbs then you can pry them off. I don't think you even needed to pull the air box to do it that way
Just because you cannot adjust the carbs properly does not mean that it cant be done.
There is no magic in carbs. They are rather easy to understand. Here goes;
This is how most carbs are affected by the 3 main controling components
The idle jet just controls the idle. Off idle it contributes a tad but not much. Most jet kits do not even include a larger idle jet.
Tapered needle, controls the mid range. In order to provide more fuel shims can be added to bottom of needle or it can be moved by relocating the needle clip if it has one. Main jet, controls anything over the midrange.
One must keep in mind that all of the above components overlap each other to varying degrees so a main jet change also changes the midrange and idle.
First thing to do is to perform a base run. Run it up to redline in second and shut the engine off with the kill switch. Check plugs for color. Tan is good white is lean black is rich. Adjust main jet to compensate.
Midrange, run it in midrange shut off engine and check plugs. Adjust needle with shims or needle clip.
I am running 38mm Mikunis' on my CX with no issues and soon they will be replaced with 40mm Mikunis flatslides and I will not have issues with them either.
