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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 1 or 2 areas which I can't seem to fix rust. One is a used headlight ear. It seems to almost be rusted through (luckily on the inside/unseen part of the ear)

For the minor rust, I've been using WD40 and steel wool (works great)

The problematic areas, I've doused with rust dissolver, several other methods, nothing seems to work.
 

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You don't say what kind of rust dissolver you used, but I've had good luck with De Oxit. If the rust is very deeply set, you may not get it all, but the rusting process will be halted by multiple applications of the De Oxit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You don't say what kind of rust dissolver you used, but I've had good luck with De Oxit. If the rust is very deeply set, you may not get it all, but the rusting process will be halted by multiple applications of the De Oxit.
which stuff? I don't see anything from De Oxit on ebay for rust removal...



i used some crap from pep boys. it's by "naval jelly" and it's pink. I've used some stuff in the past (from a marine store) which was MUCH more powerful.
 

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which stuff? I don't see anything from De Oxit on ebay for rust removal...



i used some crap from pep boys. it's by "naval jelly" and it's pink. I've used some stuff in the past (from a marine store) which was MUCH more powerful.


THIS



I'm kind of lucky we use this stuff at work, so I can get my hands on it free. I'd send you some if the hazmat cost wasn't bad.
 

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I have had good luck with it. Can't say I've had any really hard rust to try it on, but what I have had, it did a bang up job. I'll check into what it might cost to ship to Jersey. I have to get to work now, but I can check in later if you want to PM me your addy. I'd be happy to send some for shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have had good luck with it. Can't say I've had any really hard rust to try it on, but what I have had, it did a bang up job. I'll check into what it might cost to ship to Jersey. I have to get to work now, but I can check in later if you want to PM me your addy. I'd be happy to send some for shipping.


that would be awesome. sending a PM now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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I think so, just slower and maybe more suitable for small parts. Some research will provide answers from people who have experience with the method.
 

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Electrolysis is the way to go. It saves the most amount of metal possible and is real easy to set up. I have a tank at my house right now and have cleaned up some brake bolts with it. They came out amazing. I will be using it for a fender and the tank soon. You will need a decent size battery charger. I only have a 1 amp trickle charger and bigger stuff than bolts overheats it and it turns off. Supposedly 10 amp is fine but I think I am going with a 15 amp version. Parts tends to flash rust after this treatment. Be prepared to wash and dry right away (use air or alcohol to dry). You can leave the part in an indefinite amount of time, electrolysis does not erode any metal and the part will not rust in the bath.



The other easy options are acid. Phosphoric is usually the best and is the active ingredient in naval jelly. You can get very strong phosphoric cleaner in the paint department of home depot. Picked up some this weekend. The one I went to had Klean-Strip® Phosphoric Prep & Etch although the website shows another product. I paid about $14 and it needs to be diluted before use but should work much more quickly than naval jelly. It will strip paint. Phosphoric acid leaves and iron phosphate coating which is black and will not rust again. This can be painted over. When I use this I let the acid soak for a while (15 minutes to an hour depending on part and acid strength), rinse and then grind out the loose stuff with a wire brush in a cordless drill or on my dremel.



Another option is oxalic acid, supposedly will not eat paint or chrome but I have not tried it. Oxalic acid isn't too dnagerous to skin but is very toxic if ingested. You can get it from tanning suppliers - http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/Search.aspx?k=oxalic acid . Its commonly used by those who restore vintage bicycles.



With either acid you will want to rinse the area very well with water. Water and baking soda is better as it will neutralize the acid.



Good luck,

Clay
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Electrolysis is the way to go. It saves the most amount of metal possible and is real easy to set up. I have a tank at my house right now and have cleaned up some brake bolts with it. They came out amazing. I will be using it for a fender and the tank soon. You will need a decent size battery charger. I only have a 1 amp trickle charger and bigger stuff than bolts overheats it and it turns off. Supposedly 10 amp is fine but I think I am going with a 15 amp version. Parts tends to flash rust after this treatment. Be prepared to wash and dry right away (use air or alcohol to dry). You can leave the part in an indefinite amount of time, electrolysis does not erode any metal and the part will not rust in the bath.



The other easy options are acid. Phosphoric is usually the best and is the active ingredient in naval jelly. You can get very strong phosphoric cleaner in the paint department of home depot. Picked up some this weekend. The one I went to had Klean-Strip® Phosphoric Prep & Etch although the website shows another product. I paid about $14 and it needs to be diluted before use but should work much more quickly than naval jelly. It will strip paint. Phosphoric acid leaves and iron phosphate coating which is black and will not rust again. This can be painted over. When I use this I let the acid soak for a while (15 minutes to an hour depending on part and acid strength), rinse and then grind out the loose stuff with a wire brush in a cordless drill or on my dremel.



Another option is oxalic acid, supposedly will not eat paint or chrome but I have not tried it. Oxalic acid isn't too dnagerous to skin but is very toxic if ingested. You can get it from tanning suppliers - http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/Search.aspx?k=oxalic acid . Its commonly used by those who restore vintage bicycles.



With either acid you will want to rinse the area very well with water. Water and baking soda is better as it will neutralize the acid.



Good luck,

Clay


excellent suggestions. I will try some of the phosphoric cleaner this week.
 
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