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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed my fork to replace the oil and do some cleaning. After reassembly, I no longer have any indication of power. I didn't disconnect anything electrical, but i assume There was force put on the some of the wires behind the headlight when I was re-routing the air hose and had the handlebars off to give me room to work. Could anyone point me in the right direction to start troubleshooting? I assume I will need I should go out and get a multimeter or at least continuity tester. Are there any connections that tend to be weaker than others that I should start looking at?



Thanks,

Tim
 

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I had a problem that was exacerbated when I removed my forks to upgrade to a Taper roller bearing kit.It was corroded contacts in the main multi-pin connector block that pushes into the Ignition.A couple of the spade connectors had corrosion so cleaned/scraped gently with a small screwdriver and electrical cleaner.My power would go off at full left lock.All cured after the above cleaning.





Check main fuse as well.



HTH
 

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im doing my forks soon as well and i have some dodgy wiring so ill be following this troubleshoot



good luck!
 

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Two Honda’s..1982 GL500 & 1993 ST1100
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Ran into a similar issue yesterday after I R/R my headlight bucket. Starter button and headlight would not work. I traced the wiring harness from right handlebar grip and found an unlocked modular plug behind the headlight bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There doesn't appear to be any plug behind the headlamp shell. Do you literally mean red or is RED a specific plug? It looks like some of the wires in that are wrapped in electricians tape rather than heat shrink or rubber housing like I would expect. Perhaps it's under there.
 

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There doesn't appear to be any plug behind the headlamp shell. Do you literally mean red or is RED a specific plug? It looks like some of the wires in that are wrapped in electricians tape rather than heat shrink or rubber housing like I would expect. Perhaps it's under there.
My GL500 has a flat metal bracket support for two modular multi-connectors behind the headlight bucket. Both modular connectors have a black rubber covering. Trace the large black wiring harness down the right handlebar (starter button side) to the area behind your headlight bucket( remove headlight bucket) and you should see it on the left side (standing in front of bike) of the bracket support.
 

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start by checking the main fuse near the battery you may have shorted something and blown it



even if one plug was loose you should have some power going up front



so check the main fuse or if its the old tyoe do the main fuse mod then check for power at the ignition switch plug then put the plug back and check



for power thru the ignition switch and on down the line



make sure the plug from the fuse panel on the handle bars is plugged in by following it down the wires to where the plug is
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I found the fuse box. When I removed it from the box, I found two terminals and what looked like a strip of metal between them. It was flat and torn, and it said 30A on it. Was this the main fuse?
 

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I replaced the old fuse box with a blad fuse box. Now, when I turn the bike on, the main fuse immediately shorts.


You mean blows, right? A fuse is supposed to be low resistance, and be a short circuit. This implies the rest of the circuit is drawing too much current.



with a good fuse, I'm getting a reading of 12.5v from the positive terminal to the ground under the seat.


When do you see 12.5 volts? When the key is on or off? That doesn't sound too bad.



I have lightbulb in the fuse holder now. When I turn the ignition to the on position and hit the start button, the bulb dims.


Are you saying that when the bulb is in place of the fuse its bright?



The brightness of the bulb wired in series will increase as the current drawn through it increases. It will be brightest when one side is at +12 and the other is connected to a ground.



Take a look at the electrical section of the wiki:



http://cxgl.wikispaces.com/FAQ+ELECTRICAL



and find the wiring diagram for your bike follow it like a roadmap to try and find out where the problem is. Ask questions if needed.



TF
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, I meant the fuse would blow.



I see 12.5 (well now, 12.3. I need to get my battery tender charger back from my friend) with the key in the on position and with no key.



The bulb is always bright when the ignition is on. It dims when the started button is depressed.





One other thing, when I jump the solenoid, the bike starts. Does this add anything? Could this mean that there isn't a short, but rather a bad starter solenoid?
 
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