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I have heard of using air pressure thru the sparkplug hole to hold the valves against the seat. Also using a rope threaded into the sparkplug hole to fill the combustion chamber and then carefully move the piston up by hand. I have not tried either method, and cannot attest to either working or one being better than the other. You would have to develop a keeper remover and installer too, but than could be a slotted piece of pipe.
 

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I imagine that would be a real trick. I have seen the valves removed and every time I watch a valve fitted with the spring compressor I like to have my face protected. Preferable with a decent amount of room between me and the workpiece.



I imagine there is a way but it seems like you would have to make your own tools to compress the spring again.
 

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Can I remove the valve springs without taking the head off the engine? I want to check for broken springs.
Blue and Don are out of my dimensions,but the answer is no.if you try without,protect your eyes
 

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It's pretty easy, I've done in many times but never on a CX. Looks like there's plenty of room.



The valves are pretty small, so a tool like THIS ONE would probably work well.



If you have a compressor, you can use the line of a compression tester that fits the CX plug hole, hook your compressor up to gauge end and keep the cylinder pressurized with the valves closed. Give the tops of the valves a few good raps with a plastic or rubber mallet before you remove the keepers.



If you don't have a compressor, rope will work too, a slick rope, like nylon works well IMHE and fill the cylinder with it before TDC, then hand crank the last few cm to TDC to shore up the valves.
 

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Well I guess you learn something new every day.



So you fill it with rope and crank it up to tdc and the rope holds the bottom of the valves.



I almost wonder if there is a video on youtube showing this.
 

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Blindstitch does it again. You never seem to amaze me when it comes to solving problems. Billrod
 

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Blindstitch does it again. You never seem to amaze me when it comes to solving problems. Billrod
I learn something every day on this forum. I have seen some of the lever tools for valve springs, but the tool from Amazon actually looks like it would work and not kill you. Good luck.
 

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Blindstitch does it again. You never seem to amaze me when it comes to solving problems. Billrod




Credit actually goes to Blue, Cobram and Reg. I just found a video.
 

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Well the video sure as hell answered the question for me as to how, and if, it works. Thanks for finding it. Billrod
 

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As the others have said, it can be done. A word of caution, if you use the compressed air method, be careful when you reinstall the spring and retainer. If you inadvertently bump the valve hard enough to break the seal, the valve can drop into the cylinder. Don't ask how I know.




Is there any specific reason that you are wanting to pull the springs beyond an inspection?
 

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As the others have said, it can be done. A word of caution, if you use the compressed air method, be careful when you reinstall the spring and retainer. If you inadvertently bump the valve hard enough to break the seal, the valve can drop into the cylinder. Don't ask how I know.




Is there any specific reason that you are wanting to pull the springs beyond an inspection?
I have used the rope down the spark plug hole on several types of engines, but I haven't ever tried it on a CX/GL.



Just make sure that you are at top dead center and don't put too much pressure from the backside of the cylinder ... or you may break the seal and pop the head anyway. As I don't think you can get the rocker arms off without pulling the head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As the others have said, it can be done. A word of caution, if you use the compressed air method, be careful when you reinstall the spring and retainer. If you inadvertently bump the valve hard enough to break the seal, the valve can drop into the cylinder. Don't ask how I know.




Is there any specific reason that you are wanting to pull the springs beyond an inspection?


I wanted to check for a broken spring.
 

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Another reason to pull the springs would be to replace the stem seals.



Has anyone actually tried one of these tools with our engines? Are there any complications given the presence of both inner and outer springs?
 

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I wanted to check for a broken spring.
ok,you think there might be an issue in the top of the motor.no matter whats been said about getting one spring free.and the issues you might encounter.geez,for the sake of 2 head gaskets,pull the lot.no risk,no flying collets...just do a de-coke,check all your springs,and nail it back together
 

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I used this tool to remove the springs when I replaced the valve guide seals on my car:



http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=Zmh2TZyeAouO0QG314DlBg&ved=0CEMQ8gIwAw#



(EDIT: I didn't buy the tool, I borrowed it at Advance Auto... for free)

And I used the rope method to secure the valves. Very low-tech and fail safe. It's been used for decades by mechanics everywhere on every type of engine.



It's also the preferred method for securing the crank shaft when you need to remove the nut on the harmonic balancer. But if you use "the rope trick" to hold the engine, make sure you're at the top of the *compression* stroke so as not to damage the valve. (not an issue when you're just using it to keep the valve from dropping in the cylinder, but if you're putting pressure on it, you need to be careful.)
 

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ok,you think there might be an issue in the top of the motor.no matter whats been said about getting one spring free.and the issues you might encounter.geez,for the sake of 2 head gaskets,pull the lot.no risk,no flying collets...just do a de-coke,check all your springs,and nail it back together


I agree.Way easier and safer in the long run.Also when releasing or fitting valves I turn the head over onto a rag so the valve springs are facing away then if they shoot out very little chance of damage to myself.



My 2 cents.
 
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