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1979, Honda CX500C
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have recently purchased a ‘79 CX500 that no longer has a centre stand. I want to get into the drum breaks but haven’t been able to find any suggestions on a suitable rear paddock stand as the drum offers that wonderful a-symmetry.
Any advice or recommendations would be excellent and hugely appreciated.
Cheers
 

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Unless the stand mount has been cut from the frame the simplest method is to slip the factory stand onto the bike for servicing.

What I have is the stand and a stand pin cut in half with a washer welded to the end that has no flange.

With the bike on the sidestand I slip the stand into place and slip in a half pin from either side. The half pins can be got in and out with twin pipes fitted.

Pull the bike onto the stand as normal. Spring not needed.

I not only do servicing etc on these but have built whole bikes from the frame up. Just need forks and a front wheel.
 
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Unless the stand mount has been cut from the frame the simplest method is to slip the factory stand onto the bike for servicing.

What I have is the stand and a stand pin cut in half with a washer welded to the end that has no flange.

With the bike on the sidestand I slip the stand into place and slip in a half pin from either side. The half pins can be got in and out with twin pipes fitted.

Pull the bike onto the stand as normal. Spring not needed.

I not only do servicing etc on these but have built whole bikes from the frame up. Just need forks and a front wheel.
You're assuming that iamdanoj actually has a stand to put on in the first place!
 

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A used stand may be easier to source than a paddock stand, bobbins etc that will fit the application.

Either way you'd be on the hunt.

Lots of people removing stands.

Some regret moving them on.
 
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I recently asked a similar question, you could use the idea that wyn64 used but this does not allow the rear wheel to be removed.
I followed the direction of this post

They used some longer bolts and a coupling bolt to attach it to the shock mounts.
Hopefully this helps
 

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Did you have to modify those bobbins at all? All I hear is that nobody can get bobbins to fit.
The bobbins are stock standard. I drilled the axle on both sides and tapped thread (8mm) for the two high tensile bolts of the bobbins. There is very little weight on the stand... it is very easy to lift and remove (a one man operation).
 
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this will work for ever and its stable to use






I also use the same

Positioned under the front collector clamps, it lifts the front wheel and under the rear clamps the rear wheel.



Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood



Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle



Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire



Automotive tire Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread






I also use it for engine removal and installation


Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design



Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior



Automotive tire Gas Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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1978 Honda CX-500.. a work in progress
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A used stand may be easier to source than a paddock stand, bobbins etc that will fit the application.

Either way you'd be on the hunt.

Lots of people removing stands.

Some regret moving them on.
I am doing the opposite, removing side stand and keeping only center. Like old race bikes used to do. When done my CX will be lighter and lower by much so should be easy, but the side stand can go back on anytime.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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One point that hasn't been mentioned here: If you use an axle stand you still won't be able to remove the rear wheel.
 

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...emoving side stand and keeping only center. When done my CX will be lighter and lower by much so should be easy,

If your bike is lower after the conversion, it will be much harder to put it on the main stand.

You can already tell the difference between a CX 500 with an 18" rear wheel and a CX 500 C with a 16" wheel: the C is much more difficult to jack up than the Tourer.

A slightly lower total weight doesn't change that, because it's simply an unfavorable mechanical lever.


Second the center stand is significantly heavier than the side stand. And with a sporty driving style, it touches down relatively early and can lever out the rear wheel.

I removed the main stand from my CX motorcycles and lengthened the side stand a bit so that the motorcycle isn't at an angle.

Because the side stand is longer, the motorcycle can be loaded very easily even without a main stand. For maintenance I use the scissor jack.

This allows me to easily lift the motorcycle at the back and front and remove or install both wheels much better than when the motorcycle is standing on the main stand.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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You can already tell the difference between a CX 500 with an 18" rear wheel and a CX 500 C with a 16" wheel: the C is much more difficult to jack up than the Tourer.
Um.... Honda specified a 3.75-18 (theoretical diameter = 25.5") for the back of the CX500 and a 130/90-16 (theoretical diameter = 25.2") for the models with 16" rear wheels. The difference is about 1.2% which should be insignificant (different makes/models of tire of the same size vary far more than that).

I would suggest that any increase in effort required to put the CX500C on the centrestand is more likely because of differences in the frame design.

I agree with everything else you said but if I had the choice of a side stand or a centre stand I think I would choose the centre stand on a 2 wheeler, if only so I didn't have to sit on it while filling the fuel tank and to make checking the oil level more accurate.
(With the sidecar neither of those is an issue so I have removed both stands and carry a jack for emergencies. And yes, I have needed it.)
 

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1978 Honda CX-500.. a work in progress
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Good points, though the plan is not for the bike chassis to be lower but the seating height is by about 3 inches. Raised a bit in back and 1 in on forks. Do not want to drag hard bits, but this will be more of a Roadster than full on Cafe, so might be OK, I like the idea of making a quick fit factory center stand so may borrow that and put the side stand back on. Road test will be fun!
 

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I think something is wrong with the estimation of diameters.

They equate to circumferences of 80.11 and 79.16 inches with a differential of 1.01%.

I don't think that this would give a differential of 500 RPM in top.

And yes, I have both bikes and the 16" inch wheels do look a little small as fitted to the bikes compared to an 18.

The centrestands also differ in length by 10 mm suggesting this may relate to the difference in radius..
 
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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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With the stock tire sizes the difference in RPM should be negligible (certainly less than the tolerances of the tach and speedo and differences between different makes/models of the same size tire or even a new tire and a worn one).

Again I suggest that the difference in the stand length is due to differences in the frame, not the wheel & tire.
 

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60 km an hour on either of my customs - one with a BT45, the other with an ... I'd have to check but not a BT45 - is 3,800 RPM. It is 3,200 RPM on my bikes with 18" rear wheels and any other CXs I've had here to work on and test ridden. It's not an anomaly. This discrepency remains uniform at all speeds in top.

I will put a dressmakers tape on a few tyres tomorrow.

Not nitpicking but the difference has to be more than 1.1%.

If it was speedo error between models I would have speeding tickets from riding the Cs by now. an extra 500 RPM would be about 10 km. over the speed limit. I never picked one up in 10 years with my blue one or the last 10 months that I've been using the white one. Unless there's a strange synergy of consistent error between the tachs and speedos.
 

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Dressmakers tape .... taylors tape? It is a fibreglass tape measure. Soft and supple and will conform to most shapes. The perfect thing to drag around a tyre to take the circumference. I think mine is 60 inches.

Product Rectangle Font Material property Tire
 
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