Rear Brake Squeal

I had a bit of a squeal with my ebc fronts but used anti brake squeal on them and it removed the vibration.



As for the rear that's it's own question.



I bought these said to be stock but they aren't shoes from a dealer and they are hard. They don't squeal but they are also just short of useless for stopping. You can stand on them all day long and not lock them up. The ones I took off the bike were worn but I could lock up the rear tire under any condition.



The ebc should be similar to that. As long as the wheels drum is cleaned and the pins are greased making things function just right it should only be a matter of break in.



I also only keep a bit of play in my foot break. Every other bike I have ridden has more play.

I've noticed with mine that around the same time it started, I could never get the adjustment right. Where it is now has a about half to one inch worth of play more than what I like. But if I turn the nut one click up, even though the pedal feels fine, and I don't hear any squeaking when going down the road, if I spin the wheel when on the centerstand I notice that the wheel is dragging. The wheel also will get super hot, and I determined that it was the reason why my gas mileage went down about 4 MPG.



Maybe I glazed it by having it too tight or something, and now I can't fix it.



Though when I had glazed shoes before they only made a "creaking" noise. That's why I bought these new shoes, and they have the "castrating pig" noise but only at lower speeds. Once I switch my new wheel on I'm going to double check everything and sand everything down as well. These new shoes never squeaked or creaked until removing the wheel to get my tire patched.



But I also realized that it was pouring down rain when I did it. I covered everything on the bike with a plastic bag, and everything else I brought inside...but maybe some water splashed up or something.



Either way, the new wheel will determine what happens.

What this does, is make a matching arc on the brake shoes, tailors a custom fit of the shoe face to the drum.



I think that refers to the old habit of trying to mate the surfaces batter. In the old days of drum brakes the drums weren't always perfectly parallel with the axis of rotation; they also weren't perfectly flat thus the sandpaper trick was used to try and get them closer to each other. Of course nowadays you simply turn the drum - easy on a car or truck, easier said than done on a motorcycle.



'Stich, I'm really looking forward to seeing how these new EMGO slotted rear brake shoes hold up as far as noise, one thing I do know is that from close inspection they were very well built and the semi-metallic compound used is closer to that used in ceramic pads as you can see the decent amount of copper/bronze dispersed in the friction material. They seem to have gone up in price though however TAS is an authorized EMGO dealer and is looking into stocking their full line for all our CX/GL variants:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...6602028QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yep, the rear brakes were "quiet as a mouse" today. That makes for a happy camper.



Marshall, I seen those cross-slotted brake linings and it got me to wondering: "Whatever happened to "rivited" linings?" I would imagine that ANYPLACE for the expended brake lining & drum could go would help to keep it from becoming a "polishing" compound upon future braking applications. I mean these glued on linings with NO place to escape is just begging to create that "mirror-like" finish (which was exactly what mine looked like).



Stitch, My brakes are what yours are like. I could STAND on the brake pedal and not lock up the rear wheel. If I didn't know any better (and I really don't.....lol), I would speculate that these linings are probably MORE suited for an hydraulic brake system, and not for mechanical brakes such as we have on our bikes. I would presume that a "softer" material would enhance the braking to a point where they MIGHT even be of SOME benefit for stopping......Lol Of course, they probably wouldn't last as long as these current linings do, and may have to be changed every 3 er 4 years as opposed to 7 er 8 years, and one MAY end up having a bumpy ride due to the myriad of "flat-spots" on the rear tire, which with these current linings there is NO fear or threat of (rofl)....But, THAT is something I think I would just have to adjust to....IF there ever became a world with a brake lining that actually STOPS a rear wheel for a mechanical braking system.



Got my mind racing.........hmmm.......slave cylinder welded to the swing-arm might work...................NAHHHHH....the drum is too thin and would probably crack.........THEN you'd REALLY be screwed.



Ya, softer linings.....that would be the ticket.

Awesome! When I put on my standard wheel, I'll be sure to do the "old Swedish" trick then. What an awesome name for a trick .



I'm also going to get the drum turned, and probably sand my shoes too since it's going to a different drum and everything.

I've always used the,"Swedish" tip and have never had rear brake squeal.When I do a rear end service I clean the Brake drum assembly and put a really thin smear of Moly paste on the Brake actuator.

I fully strip the lot 1st and clean and 500 wet and dry any corroded surfaces and Carb/Brake clean all the parts.I also use AFC50 to lube where needed but of course nowhere near the shoes.I also always give the shoes a quick 180 Grit to take glaze off them and do the same to the Hub inner.I then re-pack the drive splines with Moly grease after fully removing any old grease.

I also treat and re-paint any parts that are showing corrosion like the torsion bar and rear brake adjuster arm etc.



I do this as a matter of course every other year.Maintenance prolongs the life of components and is cheaper in the long run<sic>

One addition to this thread, off topic but closely related.



Sometimes perceived rear drum brake squeel can also be caused by the brakes resonance passing into something capable of vibrating at a very high speed.



Sometimes the culprit is the bolts for the brake torque arm and the arm itself as these joints are designed to always have movement.



These should be greased at least occasionally and can give off a squeel just like the brake if bone dry.