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Rear Brake Squeal

13169 Views 55 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  slashfan10
The rear brakes on my 81" Custom squeal a bit. I have plenty of material left on the brake shoes. Anybody have this problem ?
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Arrgh! Those bolts.



Without looking at my bike, can you get to those bolts easily?



What torque are we talking about. Ha ha!



I will slightly give the shaft a clean & regrease.



Job for the weekend. Or even tonight. Wife dependent.



Cheers



Curt
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I use DFT(Dead F Tight)
but I reckon 20 Ftlbs ish.Check manual.
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Ah I see now Shep, the ones I took off just to polish !




Thanks and good idea.
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Ah I see now Shep, the ones I took off just to polish !




Thanks and good idea.


If you sell your present bike this is your next bike as therapy<grin>




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Hmm...it seems like the bike handled better ever since it started squeaking though! Though I definitely will do that trick Shep, especially since I just won a '78 Standard wheel on eBay...though then again, it may be a bit till I can afford the tire haha.



I'm thinking maybe it wasn't aligned properly to begin with, and the shoes wore into being a bit off alignment...then after being aligned either correctly or differently, they're being rubbed on at a different angle or something.
Well the bolts were nice and tight, so it's not them causing the vibration/noise through the brake pedal.



I had a quick look at the rear brake shaft last night, trying to figure out how you remove it.



Do you have to remove the exhaust to get it out? It looks like you have to slide it out to the left, which would hit the H-box.



Cheers



Curt
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I think you do.If it's moving freely I'd just shoot some WD40 down it with the bike on the side stand and then dribble some light machine oil down it and work it a bit.Save all the hassle of taking it off.
I thought as much.



I will try the dribble oil solution first.



Can you take the pedal off? Then I might be able to get some oil down the shaft.



It doesn't sound as this is the reason for the vibration/fizzing noise.



Cheers



Curt
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Yes you can take the pedal off but mark/take a picture of where it sits on the splines.



Also download a manual and have a read,



http://coodie.com/cx/
Thanks for the link to the service manual. I have a haynes manual, but it doesn't cover everything.



This service manual is very similar to the one I have for my CBX750F.



Downloaded and stored.



Cheers
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I have yet to try any of the suggestions in this thread, but came across something interesting:



In the service manual it states to torque the rear axle nut to 40-47 ft lbs on several pages. However, on page 14-8 it states to only tighten it to 22-29 ft lbs. I was going by this when installing the rear wheel, and that's how much I torqued it.



Maybe this is the problem? Is it possible that I undertorqued it?
The manual says to torque the front to 40-47 and the rear to 22-29 in the sections relative to those parts.



But like you said the front of the manual says both axles at 40-47.



Since they are both castle nuts i'm less worried as long as the pin is in there.



The question is what's the gl manual say. I'm going to go look as it should be the same for the rear.
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Looks like honda needed more proof readers. The clymer's manual says 40-47 on both.



But here's the fun fact.

The honda manual for the gl says to tighten the axle pinch bolt to 36-58 pounds.

and then to tighten the axle pinch bolt to 14-22 pounds. Must be the how to snap a bolt manual.



So go for 40 pounds on the axle with no worries.
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The manual says to torque the front to 40-47 and the rear to 22-29 in the sections relative to those parts.



But like you said the front of the manual says both axles at 40-47.



Since they are both castle nuts i'm less worried as long as the pin is in there.



The question is what's the gl manual say. I'm going to go look as it should be the same for the rear.


Ditto.I do mine sensible tight and don't even use my Torque wrench on these.So long as they are tight and I can get the split pin in I'm happy.



My 2 cents
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My rear brakes are sounding much like the sound that comes from a pig when you take him out hunting for "Rocky Mountain Oysters", just like what I've been reading here.



And, it seems, the only solution is to keep taking off the rear tire and sanding the shoes and the drum every time it starts to squeal. Is the problem these EBC brake linings? Just don't seem right.
So, Shep, is your suggestion of loosening those 3 bolts on the final drive and tightening them back up AFTER reinstalling the rear wheel and buttoning it down have anything to do with rear brake squeal, or was that in reference to something else?
So, Shep, is your suggestion of loosening those 3 bolts on the final drive and tightening them back up AFTER reinstalling the rear wheel and buttoning it down have anything to do with rear brake squeal, or was that in reference to something else?


I think that it's supposed to help align the wheel and prevent rear brake squeal and whatnot.
As Cramer says.It's just something I do to make sure the wheel is aligned.It's an old tip of the old Swedish CX board and seems to have worked well for me and I thought may as well do it just in case
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Something has to resolve this issue.......Although, I'm not quite sure how this would or could help prevent brake squeal, because it's the outer housing, and should not have much, if any effect on how the driveshaft lines up with the rear wheel, as there are "U"-joints, or A "U"-joint in there that should compensate for what little mal-alignment may be caused or created by removing/reinstalling of the rear wheel. As the axle rod is solid....oh well.....lest I digress into over analyzing the situation, which I have been known to do upon occasion/s...........All I can do is TRY it...What can it hurt, eh?..............! thing I DO know is:







THIS CASTRATION OF SWINE MUST CEASE!!!!!!!!



I was thinking that perhaps a "softer" brake lining may prevent these squeals and my even give better braking on the rear brake......Or, maybe a harder lining? That would be a study for ones with more knowledge than I to ponder on. I know that EBC makes different linings for the the front discs, although, the oft encountered "glazed-eye" syndrome at Willy-World didn't offer me a choice, and my not knowing any differently till AFTER the fact. I didn't see any different numbers on the rear shoes........So, I dunno!!!!!!



It's gotten to the point that I have even tried to "tap" out a rhythm when coming to a stop........Oh well, it's off to the garage to apply an "Old Sweedish Remedy"..........Lol



Even considered trying to do the drum solo in "In-da-godda-da-vita (baybe)"....but that would require riding side saddle...rofl



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Seriously though, a squealing drum (or even disc) brake is usually happening because the friction surface (shoes or pads) have taken on a glaze, sometimes it can go so far as to extend to the drum or rotor also getting too much of a mirror finish. That's why the final step when you're turning rotors or drums is to put a slight crosshatch on them. The solution is usually as simple as taking some 320 or 400 wet/dry sandpaper and scuffing them back up with a crosshatch (non-directional) pattern again.



There are a few other things that can cause this but you start here.
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