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Rear Brake Squeal

13164 Views 55 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  slashfan10
The rear brakes on my 81" Custom squeal a bit. I have plenty of material left on the brake shoes. Anybody have this problem ?
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I can only suggest this,

Note:When tightening the bolts on a rear wheel that has been removed I slack off the bolts/nuts on the drive box,tighten all the rest and then tighten the drive box bolts last.I got this tip off the old SwedishXX CX board for making sure the rear wheel aligns.It has served me well as I've never had any rear end,"Crabbing".
If this helps cure it then the tip above serves two purposes
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Drive box bolts ?? I've taken my rear wheel off a few times, trying to figure which ones you are referring to ?

The ones that secure the drive shaft outer housing to the drive box.I started using this tip around 6 years ago after I had done a rear wheel service and got,"Crabbing" .Since using this tip I've never had any rear wheel problems.I do not know if it helps but as I've had a 100% success rate in rear wheel servicing since I doubt I'll change this method now as it takes very little to do
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Drive box bolts?? What, where, how?

So taking the brake pedal shaft out and cleaning and greasing up won't help then.


That will help as well.They,like anything,need cleaning and servicing and re-greasing if corroded/rusted up.

As for drive box bolts/nuts numbers 15 on here,
I use DFT(Dead F Tight)
but I reckon 20 Ftlbs ish.Check manual.
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Ah I see now Shep, the ones I took off just to polish !

Thanks and good idea.

If you sell your present bike this is your next bike as therapy<grin>

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I think you do.If it's moving freely I'd just shoot some WD40 down it with the bike on the side stand and then dribble some light machine oil down it and work it a bit.Save all the hassle of taking it off.
Yes you can take the pedal off but mark/take a picture of where it sits on the splines.

Also download a manual and have a read,
The manual says to torque the front to 40-47 and the rear to 22-29 in the sections relative to those parts.

But like you said the front of the manual says both axles at 40-47.

Since they are both castle nuts i'm less worried as long as the pin is in there.

The question is what's the gl manual say. I'm going to go look as it should be the same for the rear.

Ditto.I do mine sensible tight and don't even use my Torque wrench on these.So long as they are tight and I can get the split pin in I'm happy.

My 2 cents
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As Cramer says.It's just something I do to make sure the wheel is aligned.It's an old tip of the old Swedish CX board and seems to have worked well for me and I thought may as well do it just in case
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Well, I got everything snuffed up with the aforementioned "Old Sweedish" remedy, as suggested, (14mm btw), and now, to start the "proofing" process. I know it won't squeal right now, as I also sanded down both shoes and drum, but, shall see just how long this will last, or not last.

So, OFF to the wind!!!!!!!!!

Any news?
I've always used the,"Swedish" tip and have never had rear brake squeal.When I do a rear end service I clean the Brake drum assembly and put a really thin smear of Moly paste on the Brake actuator.

I fully strip the lot 1st and clean and 500 wet and dry any corroded surfaces and Carb/Brake clean all the parts.I also use AFC50 to lube where needed but of course nowhere near the shoes.I also always give the shoes a quick 180 Grit to take glaze off them and do the same to the Hub inner.I then re-pack the drive splines with Moly grease after fully removing any old grease.

I also treat and re-paint any parts that are showing corrosion like the torsion bar and rear brake adjuster arm etc.

I do this as a matter of course every other year.Maintenance prolongs the life of components and is cheaper in the long run<sic>
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