[Deathbike]

I replaced my rear brake shoes today and have everything put back together but not torqued. I'm experiencing what was described in this post from a decade ago, where after torquing down the axle nut the brake cover is locked down to the hub so it can't float independently. In other words, if the brake torque arm is attached then the wheel won't spin freely in neutral. I also notice that the left end of the axle sat a couple of millimeters proud of the swing arm clamp in the photos I took before disassembly, but now the end is almost flush.

The factory manual says on page 14-8 to torque the axle nut before tightening the axle fixing bolt, but that gets me to the current condition. It seems based on the advice from the post I linked above that I should snug up the axle nut to remove free play, but then torque the axle fixing bolt before final torque is applied to the axle nut.

Does that sound right, or am I missing something serious?

UPDATE (since I hate it when searching for answers in posts like this and they seem unresolved): Turns out I was making a big deal of of nothing, or better put, misunderstanding what I was seeing when putting the rear end back together. Thanks to everyone who responded. I did follow the Swedish method but really what I needed was a fresh day and fresh pair of eyes. Everything works fine even if the brake cover plate doesn't spin freely once the axle is fully torqued. Of course it helps to connect the torque arm to the brake before torquing down fully.

 

[bahn88]

I replaced my rear brake shoes today and have everything put back together but not torqued. I'm experiencing what was described in this post from a decade ago, where after torquing down the axle nut the brake cover is locked down to the hub so it can't float independently. In other words, if the brake torque arm is attached then the wheel won't spin freely in neutral. I also notice that the left end of the axle sat a couple of millimeters proud of the swing arm clamp in the photos I took before disassembly, but now the end is almost flush.

The factory manual says on page 14-8 to torque the axle nut before tightening the axle fixing bolt, but that gets me to the current condition. It seems based on the advice from the post I linked above that I should snug up the axle nut to remove free play, but then torque the axle fixing bolt before final torque is applied to the axle nut.

Does that sound right, or am I missing something serious?

Torqueing the "pinch bolt" on the brake hub side is the last step....
else the axle wont move freely as you torque the axle nut......

 

[reclinedrelic]

Deathbike are you aware of the so called Swedish method? Read through this thread. final drive replaced

 

[Deathbike]

Deathbike are you aware of the so called Swedish method? Read through this thread. final drive replaced

Thanks, that seems to be the way to go. One other thing though, is that my '82 doesn't have the cotter pin features on the axle or nut. Does it seem like a good idea to use the Swedish method, torque the axle fixing bolt, then apply final torque on the axle nut so it stays put? In retrospect that appears to be how the previous person left it for me.

 

[Deathbike]

Torqueing the "pinch bolt" on the brake hub side is the last step....
else the axle wont move freely as you torque the axle nut......

Thanks, but my issue is the full torque on the nut locks everything down so the brake cover is fixed to the hub. It would be metal on metal if I tried to ride it that way.

 

[bahn88]

Thanks, but my issue is the full torque on the nut locks everything down so the brake cover is fixed to the hub. It would be metal on metal if I tried to ride it that way.

There are 2 spacers..one in the final drive...and a little collar near the brake hub..are they there?

 

[Deathbike]

There are 2 spacers..one in the final drive...and a little collar near the brake hub..are they there?

The "distance collar" is inside the drive, and the tapered spacer washer is there against the brake hub.

 

[bahn88]

See #7 here...(in the drive)

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500-1978-australia_model16524/partslist/F13.html#.YdTzmGhByUk

#2 here

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500-1978-usa_model1065/partslist/F++12.html#.YdT0QWhByUk

the model bike used is to show you the parts...

 

[Deathbike]

See #7 here...(in the drive)

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500-1978-australia_model16524/partslist/F13.html#.YdTzmGhByUk

#2 here

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500-1978-usa_model1065/partslist/F++12.html#.YdT0QWhByUk

the model bike used is to show you the parts...

Yes, those are both there.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

When you get to that final torque, be aware there's a typo in one of the FSMs (I don't recall which model, off hand.) It gives the axle bolt torque value for the pinch bolt.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Backing off the final drive bolts, per the "Swedish Method," might allow enough slack to eliminate the binding.