[trpchops]

I’m reinstalling my rear wheel after having a new tire installed so wondering the cleaning/replacing the grease? I don’t know how old the grease is so:
1-should I completely clean out both gear sides?(not sure the respective names)
2-or should I just reapply the lithium based grease to what’s already there?
3-if I should clean out the old first, can I just wipe,it,out or should I clean out with gumout or brake cleaner?

I did replace the brake shoes and springs and relubed the brake cam and pivot points.

Sure appreciate suggestions on this. Thanks in advance.
It’s a 1981 cx500D.

 

[obo515]

I think you are on the right track,, the last tire change brake job on my 650 I just ragged off the old grease and put a fresh coating of lithium base moly fortified hi temp, extreme pressure grease. I did replace the large oring in there also as old one was broken, got one from the machine supply here by matching it in the store. The grease I use is valvoline, spec GB-LB. I dont pile up a large amount, but amply coat splines, some in and out. Solvent cleaning may be advised if any metal is evident, mine had none and grease was not hard, just a bit dirty looking, possibly due to the broken oring.

 

[obo515]

I've never lost a final drive using that procedure, Honda or BMW. The only thing with moly grease is it always looks dirty the red lithium type of same spec is fine too, I just hear moly gives better protection from wear.

 

[obo515]

I've also been using multi vis synthetic gear lube in gear case, always ride bike until its warm before draining completely, fill to bottom of filler hole. Shaft is soooo superior to chain in many respects, I've never track raced, but changed enough sprockets, chains and output seals to have an aversion,,,?

 

[Sidecar Bob]

The FSM says to use NLGI No.2 Lithium based grease with molybdenum additive. This is ordinary moly/lith grease that you can get at any auto parts place. You can use the same grease for everything else on the bike except where silicone grease is required (e.g.the brakes).

Unless you have replaced them recently and know they are good I recommend replacing the o-ring on the hub (inside the spline flange) and the one on the final drive's gear (at the base of the splines) with new ones because if one of them breaks it will let dirt into the grease that will quickly wear the splines away again.

It is very important to follow the correct assembly procedure. Whenever you have the wheel off loosen the final drive nuts and re-tighten everything in this order:
1) axle nut (this will pull the wheel and final drive splines into alignment)
2) pinch bolt in left side of swingarm (if you do this before the axle nut you will pull the ends of the swingarm together when you tighten the axle nut)
3) final drive nuts

 

[obo515]

Out curiosity I looked in Clymer manual and the description of procedure is the same as mentioned above. I may remove the wheel again and look for the other oring that I did not replace, I dont recall seeing it, and cheap insurance to change it anyway.

 

[obo515]

I've been searching on here for final drive orings and found three sizes listed, 138, 154, 230. Which size is for drive flange on wheel, and does it have to be removed to change oring. I changed the obvious one on gear box splines.

 

[obo515]

The oring on driven splines (wheel) will probably be obvious on close inspection once removed and cleaned some, I'm hoping.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

I'm not sure of the sizes off hand. I would recommend looking it up in the parts drawings on your local Honda dealer's website.

 

[obo515]

Good idea! I found the oring on the driving spline, not broken but loose in the groove, will replace tomorrow after trip to Honda,, ,plenty greasy in there?

 

[Sidecar Bob]

FWIW, I bought the sizes my bikes need in lots or 10 on eBay (price for 10 about the same as Honda charges for one) so I can change them every time I change the tire.

Note that Honda specifies the Inside Diameter and the wire (cross section) but some sellers list the Outside Diameter and wire so if you buy them anywhere else make sure to take that into account.

 

[obo515]

Speaking of tire,,, I had forgotten that to get mine to clear the bottom left shock bolt has to be removed and shock pulled outa the way, could be the 140/90 tire I put on, but easily done. I also had to remove the left aftermarket muffler to pull the axle. The brake stay bolt hadn't been tightened enough, but the safety clip saved me. Honda has given me some free stuff in the past, and been helpful in a couple of other instances, so I won't feel bad giving them a few bucks,,

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

If you let the air out of the tire you can probably get it on and off the bike without removing the shock. I have to let the air out of my 130/90-16 tire to remove and install.

 

[obo515]

Since you mention it I think it was deflated when I first installed? I do like the big tire, not that I'm willing to lean far enough to use it all,,,

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

Believe it or not, the skinnier tire will corner better than the fat tire. Most people go with fat tires for the looks while not realizing they’re hurting performance.

 

[obo515]

It does look kool ? and I'm hopin the tread is thicker in the middle, because that's where mine wear out!

 

[obo515]

My 73 Norton Commando roadster had tyres that looked like these fat tire bicycles, but it was the bike I leaned over the farthest of any. Large diameter wheels, skinny tires, isolastic suspension,, took it to Daytona in 2000, what a ride!?

 

[trpchops]

Have everything lubed up and loosened the final drive nuts to install tire. Can’t seem to get the wheel/tire in place. I have it jacked up with a scissor jack to help. Wondering if the tire is to big-130/90 B16? The left muffler seems to be really stuck in place and I’m not able to remove it(ideas for this as well) it obstructs the shock mount bolt for removal. Earlier post recommended deflating the tire but will I be able to reinflate? I do have a compressor.
You all have been a huge help. Thanks

 

[obo515]

Deflate tire. You can get it in there, spray some armor all on to lube if required. Once it's in reinflation is same as checkin pressure. You are close, patience and perseverance rule! ?

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

Agree with above except for the lube part. I wouldn’t want anything slippery on my tires. Let the air out and it will go and you will have no problems inflating it.