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Before I put that back in the bike I still needed to clean and service the left side controls
Do you use any type of lube for these controls? If so, what type?
 

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What type of lube do you use for this?
On the copper contacts I use a thin layer of dielectric grease. Inside where the detentes are I use an axle grease.
 
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Today was a long day of detailing and getting things ready to reassemble the back end of the motor. Bare with me here. It's almost 11pm and I just finished setting the motor back in the frame.
All the internals were sonic cleaned, and all the fasteners were cleaned and prepped as well. With the flywheel removed to inspect all the components, everything past with flying colors like it was new. Even the starter clutch assembly.

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I tested the cam chain tensioner compared to a new OEM one and they were the exact same when assembled. So the original components went back in the motor.
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With the back of the motor prepped as well as the rear cover, I pressed in a new water pump mechanical seal. A new cam oil seal went in as well.
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Here's all the new seals and O-rings that went back into the rebuild. Yes, they are all OEM Honda.
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New rear case gasket cut and everything assembled ready for the rear cover to go on.
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Rear cover all cleaned and prepped.
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Finally the back of the motor was reassembled and torqued down to specs ready to go back in the frame.
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With the motor back together and sitting in the frame, it's time to call it a night.
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The reason I have worked so late tonight to get the motor back in is because my oldest son called me today and asked me to weld up a partial cut though his daughters catalytic converter that someone tried to steal. It'll be here tomorrow morning to weld up the cut. But I need to move everything out of the way to get her car in for welding. At least now I can roll things out of the way for that project.

OK, see you on the next update. Hopefully it's running again by then!
 

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Are thugs back to stealing CATs again? I know it used to be a thing but didn't know it still is? Or is it like 80's clothing, just keeps coming back around? ;)
 
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I have been watching this forum for 5 years, this is my first post. I am so impressed with your knowledge, work, and willingness to help LadyCrowe, Larry! Amazing!
I have a 1981 CX500D that needs a mechanical seal and fork seals. I would like to go through it like you have with this one. These are great machines.
 

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Larry is Amazing! I think he maybe a little OCD... 😜 I’ve never seen anyone have the attention to detail like he does!
 

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Are thugs back to stealing CATs again? I know it used to be a thing but didn't know it still is? Or is it like 80's clothing, just keeps coming back around? ;)
Yes, at least here in California it's almost as bad as the C19 pandemic! In order to see the top and back side of the cut they made to weld it, I had to tape a mirror the the body and weld the cut in a backwards view. It was a first for me, but I got it done.
 

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OK, I'm back to square one, kinda! Everything is back together and I got it running again, for the moment!!! This is one of those "one step forward stories"! I did have help by the way. I'm sure you remember my bird Maico from the short video a while back. Well, he decided to help me today by sitting on the left controls and singing to himself in the mirror. He does the wolf whistle and another tune I taught him.
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OK, on to the "story"!
So it took a while today but I got everything back in place and hooked up ready to run. Had to go get some oil and coolant first though.This was just before I fired it up.
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With the oil in and the coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water, I filled up the radiator. BTW, I did do a full flush of the radiator and motor case with clean water before I put the motor back together. Anyway, I put the fuel bottle on the carbs, cranked it for a bit until the oil light went off and fired the bike up. All went well to this point. As we all do, after it was running with new coolant in a previously drained system, I looked at the level in the radiator after only 1 minute of running the motor. I could not believe what I was seeing! Not only was the coolant circulating, but it was already warm! That's not supposed to happen till the bike has been running for SEVERAL minutes and the thermostat has opened up!!! I shut the bike off and went to get my digital thermometer just to show you after it had run for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes tops!
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My shop is air conditioned and was about 76 degrees all day. So the motor wasn't warm to begin with. BTW, I didn't notice this the first time I ran the motor because I had not drained the system. So there was no reason to suspect or check the coolant other than making sure it was full. My guess is that either the thermostat is stuck wide open, or, the previous owner has pulled the thermostat out completely! This is the one step forward part! I need to drain the coolant and remove the thermostat cover to see what's going on. I'll get into that after I post this. So you may see another update later. See you soon probably!
 
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Okay, this might be a stupid question and the fact I'm not mechanical at all, knowledge only that it's my bike and I've rode it enough to get the engine going. It would end up being hot like really hot, like through my jeans, make it uncomfortable to ride. Would that have any correlation or is that just rookie stuff? 😂
 

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Corie, The cylinders do get hot enough that when your knees are up against the heads you'll feel the heat especially on a custom model bike. I'm 6'2" and I feel it too if I don't keep my knees away from the cylinder heads.

OK, My theory and guess didn't hold water. Pun intended. There is a thermostat in the system, and doing the test in a heating pan of water on the stove proved that it indeed started to open at 190 degrees. So the parts will be vapor blasted, cleaned and sealed when I put it all back together. Maybe I was being paranoid and have never stuck my finger in a system to check the temp soon after I started a fresh motor. Either way, I'd rather be safe than sorry. At least the entire cooling system will have new O-rings and a fresh sealing.
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You can see it opening at this point.
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See you tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Okay so that's what I'm struggling with being a new rider. In class, they teach you to hug the tank with your knees when you turn so you have better control, which happens to be right next to the cylinder heads. I guess I just have to scoot back in the seat or something, just practice.
 
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OK, here's the next chapter in the "story". Sometimes things come to mind at the strangest times. Just as I woke up this morning I remembered the warm feeling of the container of mixed coolant and the sweet smell of it as I was pouring it into the radiator. This turned a light on in my brain! So, after coffee, I poured concentrated coolant in a container, and distilled water in another. Both were at room temperature of 74 degrees. When I mixed the two, the temp instantly rose to 84 degrees! There's obviously a chemical reaction going on here. I'm thinking that the faster rise in temp as I started the bike may have accelerated the reaction even more. Most of the motors I have done would have had the coolant poured in and had sat for several hours or even overnight before they were started. The reaction here was due to mixing and pouring it in right away and then starting the bike up since it was the last liquid to be filled.
This time the coolant has already been mixed and will sit for a few hours while I assembly the thermostat components. I'll check it's temp just before I pour it in, followed by a temp check with it running. BTW, this is the first time in a long time I have mixed my own 50/50 in quit a while. I've been using the premix for the last couple years. For some reason I decided to go back to mixing my own.

Coolant by itself.
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Distilled water by itself.
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And, seconds after they were mixed together.
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On the upside, at least the thermostat system will be clean and freshly sealed!
 

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What coolant are you using? I ask because I just redid the front end of my new to me custom and I used peak brand green premixed but have always used Honda blue on my wing.

Also I've been following this thread since I joined and props to you Larry.
 

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What coolant are you using? I ask because I just redid the front end of my new to me custom and I used peak brand green premixed but have always used Honda blue on my wing.

Also I've been following this thread since I joined and props to you Larry.
I am using Prestone Dexcool without silicate. Most coolants have silicate in it and are intended to keep the internals of an automotive engines system clean with the particals scrubbing the metal as it flows through the motor. In the CX/GL series bikes with a mechanical water pump seal, the silicate can cause premature ware on the seal causing it to start leaking.
 
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After getting the thermostat system sealed and back on the motor this morning, I needed something to do to keep me from being tempted to pour the coolant in before the sealer I use on the O-rings had cured enough. An easy one was to get the motors Honda emblems cleaned up and repaint the black that had peeled off. After an email with Corie, I decided to paint them with a purple pin striping paint. After all, the bike's name IS Rosie right!
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Next up was to get the seat ready for the new OEM style seat cover. So I put the new cover out in the sun to soften up and make it easier to stretch and install. Then I pulled the old cover off. As luck would have it, there was a crack in the pan on both sides. And, the back of the pan had been twisted and bent on the right side at the rear.
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OK, this will kill some time for me! I pulled out the tig welder and repaired the cracks. Fun stuff with such thin metal I tell you. It's not pretty, but it's solid again.
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And the twist and bend was straightened.
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I know what I'm about to tell you will come as a surprise to some of you. But I have decided not to listen to my inner OCD and decided just to spot paint the welded areas and some of the rusted spots. I will NOT be listening to my inner self and bead blast the pan and paint it. I know, it's not normal for me! I'm just going to spot it in here and there...
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OK, maybe the bottom that you may see.... damned OCD anyway.... But I definitely won't do the top under the foam!!!
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OK, I give up. This must come to a stop Mr OCD!!!
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Well heck, now I have to wait till the paint dries before I can put the seat foam and new cover on! What to do now! OH yes, the coolant in the motor and get it running again!
OK, I'll see you later.
 

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I am using Prestone Dexcool without silicate. Most coolants have silicate in it and are intended to keep the internals of an automotive engines system clean with the particals scrubbing the metal as it flows through the motor. In the CX/GL series bikes with a mechanical water pump seal, the silicate can cause premature ware on the seal causing it to start leaking.
The peak said silicate free, any reason to change it? I've read multiple threads on here where someone will state they use this or that. Guess mostly just what they personally believe in.
 

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The peak said silicate free, any reason to change it? I've read multiple threads on here where someone will state they use this or that. Guess mostly just what they personally believe in.
No reason to change it. Your fine with what you are using.
 
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