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Discussion Starter · #662 ·
Thanks Bob. I haven't had to do it too many times but the method of solder removal used here with the piece of ground braid is the one I learned from Matt on the youtube show the workshop. Sometimes I make a brush out of a piece of regular insulated multi strand wire. I've seen those solder suckers but never used one.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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They actually sell that braid as solder wick. I use it occasionally but I use a solder sucker more often.

BTW: Have a look at some of Clive's other videos. Besides taking electronic stuff apart and the odd repair he also has some odd things about electrocuting food and re-distilling liquor.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #664 ·
Thanks Bob.

Having finally finished cleaning up multiple wheels for future use I thought I'd take some photos before bagging them up and storing them.

This set are for the 78 that I got from Ralph.

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Apologies for the size of the uploaded pictures. This is the first time I've run pictures through my PC with windows 10. It is nothing like 7 and will take me a while to figure out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #668 ·
A pair of reversed fronts. Unfortunately I have two more of these but they were buckled when checked.

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And a pair of 16" and 1 18" rear reversed comstars.

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I have at least a couple of more sets {as well as some oddments} but those have bikes sitting on them.

Other fun and games include the thermostat for our freezer starting to buzz and smoke. Water had gotten in it as it is for some reason positioned where it contacts the floor. This has been an issue a few times in the past after defrosts but this time I hadn't defrosted.

Thermostat bypassed for now. I should be able to pick up its replacement the middle of the coming week. Until then I'm just turning it on and off occasionally.

I am going to move the thermostat to the top at the back along with the warning lights and put them in a project box.
 

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Wow! what do you do in your "spare time"? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #671 ·
I picked up the freezer thermostat on Thursday and have it installed. Mounted in a project box on the side of the freezer now.

Working properly now. No crackle, buzz, pop, bang or thrown circuit breaker.

The old one has a hole blown in it from the arcing.

Partway through cleaning up all of the CX forks I have here and have bought another pair of twin disc forks from ebay since most of those that I have here are for single disc. Most of the bits I have here are from 78 models.

Discovered a vacuum leak on the right intake runner on the white 500C The rubber has separated from the aluminium. It must have been leaking a little when installed and when the carb balance was done.as after wrapping the runner in silicon self amalgamating tape the carb balance is now obviously a little off. I'll sort that when I get the chance. It will be due another head retorque anyway having now run a couple of tanks of fuel through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #672 ·
Just finished rebuilding and polishing 5 sets of CX forks for future use.

Most of what I had here in the way of 33 mm forks have come up usable.

Ready to use I have -

1 set of bushed twin disc forks.

1 set of unbushed twin disc forks.

3 sets of unbushed single disc forks.

All have been rebuilt with new seals though 4 sets have used dust seals as I have a heap of them. The unbushed twin disc set {perhaps for the thingummy} have a new set of push in type dust seals from a 250 virago as a fork brace is planned for this build.

I'll get some photos before I store them.

One set has air caps. I put them back but did add the missing short springs. Must have been somebodies lowering effort.

As I had multiple sets to refill they all got transmission fluid {I use 150CC} except for the first set that got the last of a bottle of 15W castrol fork oil I already had here.

I found that early unbushed forks use a shorter long spring and a longer short spring. 1 set of these forks got the longer springs from both sets - the longer long spring from the later forks and the longer short springs from the early forks. Bouncing these against the floor feel promising. The thingummy set got an added 30 mm spacer.

Freezer reliably operating at - 20 celcius. {CSIRO recommended temperature}

I have the white custom on the work floor at the moment. Fixed an annoying minor exhaust leak yesterday and now it sits waiting for hopefully the final head retorque, camchain and valve clearance adjustment and I still need to rebalance the carbs after finding and fixing a leaking right intake runner.

Going back to using the blue 80 standard feels like a rocket after the bog stock engined white 500C.
 

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1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition - 1995 Honda Goldwing GL1500 SE - 2012 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
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Great looking work. Did a lot of work on my '85 Limited Edition GW over the past year, engine rebuild and complete paint job. Had the engine cases and the associated parts vapour blasted, and quite a few other items hand polished such as wheel rims, valve covers, timing belt covers, front forks and such. Painted quite a few of the frame parts as well. To protect the finishes and for ease of cleaning, did some research. The issue with vapour blasting is the finish is smooth such that it cannot be painted. Found a CERAKOTE product (no affiliation) MC5100 for all manner of aluminum finishes, and is good for vapour blasted parts. Used this on painted surfaces as well such as the wheel rims, swing arms, calipers, and whatever else I needed a protectant on. Have been riding the bike for some 6 months and everything cleans up nicely with a damp rag.

The fellow who did the vapour blasting recommended using ACF50 as a protectant, but this is a fluid film so it would attract dirt/crud/grime, and with the majority of the 1200 engine being hidden behind plastic, be difficult to keep clean.

The only issue with using this CERAKOTE product is that once applied, spray gun/brush, nothing will stick to it, no tape out there that will adhere to it unless you take some sand paper to it.

If you applied this to the wheel rims and other parts, never need to revisit and do any cleaning except with a damp rag.

Thinking this may be of interest.

Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #674 · (Edited)
I've heard good things about cerakote. Not sure if it is available locally, but then, I haven't really looked.

I used a number of different blacks on the wheels. Some have different black on the rim as opposed to the spokes.

I've got some frames to paint soon and used the wheels as test beds for the paints.

From that I've chosen an epoxy enamel from dymark. I didn't know they made real paint. I used to use their line marking paint for layout when I did irrigation. Those were the only products from this company I've ever seen. Their paint isn't as finicky to work with as most epoxy enamels, some of which are real mongrels. Gives a good finish. Also dries quickly which is unusual for epoxies the worst of which can remain tacky for days and are reactive to themselves if recoated.

I got out to the shed for a while today and did the retorque on the heads of the white 500C. I was hoping it would be the last one but checking valve clearances before and after the retorque shows that the gaskets are still compressing.

Reset the valve clearances, adjusted the camchain and redid the carb balance.

I left it out there still attached to everything as I timed out.

I'll get the fuel supply and gauges off tomorrow and the fuel tank etc. back on. I won't be riding tomorrow. I've got to buy timber, brackets etc for some shelving so will be walking down with the delivery trolley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #675 ·
That's all of the 33 mm forks cleaned up and ready for use.

Left to right. Bushed twin disc. Unbushed twin disc with insert style dust seals for the thingummy. And 3 sets of unbushed single disc. Fourth set from the left with air caps.

Wood Gas Engineering Metal Machine



Product Tableware Cylinder Automotive tire Bicycle fork



Automotive tire Material property Audio equipment Carbon Gas


The right 37 mm fork leg I have here is finished and am working on the left antidive leg.

The right leg that couldn't be compressed turned out to have internal rust, mostly on the damper rod. This must have locked it to the lower fork tube.

Rust all cleaned up, reassembled with new seal and upper bush and it works as intended. No leaks either. I put two strokes from my foot pump into the air cap giving 18 PSI and it held this pressure overnight. I'll call that good.
 

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Very nice!
 
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