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Please do...in my limited interactions...with Victor/VC3 he was very gentlemanly
 

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Discussion Starter · #624 ·
Just been out and had a front tyre fitted to the white 500C. My local shop has hardly any stock at the moment meaning no new tyres to fit the CX in stock.

I've had a slightly used Michelin pilot fitted to the front and ordered a Shinko 712 for the rear.

Carbs still need on bike balancing when I get to it. Maybe today, maybe not.

The temp gauge comes and goes so I'll need to take another look at that.

The cleanup of wheels continues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #625 ·
White 500C heads retorqued - and still moving. I'll do them again in about 100 kms. Camchain and valve clearances readjusted at the same time.

Erratic temp gauge traced to a crappy connection at the sender. Seems good now.

Speedo working, though this one has a damaged trip meter and missing reset. I'll probably just install a grommet to fill the reset hole. Tacho working.
 

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White 500C heads retorqued - and still moving. I'll do them again in about 100 kms. Camchain and valve clearances readjusted at the same time.

Erratic temp gauge traced to a crappy connection at the sender. Seems good now.

Speedo working, though this one has a damaged trip meter and missing reset. I'll probably just install a grommet to fill the reset hole. Tacho working.
3/32 hole drilled in a bit of soft rod/stick will give you a workable reset until something better comes around
 

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Discussion Starter · #627 · (Edited)
Thanks This one would need opening up though as the numeral tumblers are crooked. I think the square piece that holds one end has moved out of place.

I have a number of these gauges but all have faults so at some point I'll open them all up and make as many good units out of those I have here that I can.

I'm not interested in doing that at the moment.

I'm cleaning up wheels for future builds currently.

Seven down, three in the works, several more to follow. Tedious.

On another note, I've run all of the number plates that I can currently find here through our motor registration system to see which are viable.

I've run three so far {I think I must have more}

Two are still in the system but I don't seem to have the matching frame or engine numbers. Though I've got two 500 euro frames I didn't take numbers from and those are still possibilities.

Another I have both frame and engine here.

I have a black 78 down the back still wearing a plate that should be good. Due to its location I haven't accessed the numbers yet, And I think I forgot to get the frame number from the partial bike sitting next to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #628 ·
Not a lot of action here at the moment.

Currently waiting for the 130/90/16 shinko 712 I have ordered for the white 500C to come in.

Have had a failure of a GY6 ignition igniter on my blue standard. Tracked down fairly quickly and replaced with one of the spares kept on hand. Ray gave me a link to the correct replacements on ebay and have ordered a couple more. These are the DC CDI, not AC just for reference. I had to get Ray to clarify that for me.

Still cleaning up wheels. Am on the last reversed comstar - an 18" rear - at the moment. Have painted the spokes and will mask it off again to repaint the rim tonight.

While I still have a few more wheels to be checked in the back shed I am coming close to the end of these.

Am cleaning up another pair of standard comstars for a 78. These too will need painting I have so far painted the spokes of one set silver and another satin black. Still deciding on a colour for this set. Maybe gunmetal grey.

Once I've finished with the wheels I'll be rebuilding all of the viable forks that I have here ready for use. Must order several sets of fork seals.

As soon as the weather warms up a little I'll be getting my blue 500C down to the back of the shed for a quick refurbishment and look at the engine internals with particular attention to the shell bearings as I removed this bike from service after seeing a few gold flecks at its last oil change. Better to check on it than destroy the crank by continuing to use the bike. If it was a false alarm so be it but I'll take the opportunity to replace the rings and anything else needed. Things like the camchain should still be good as they won't have a huge number of miles since their replacement.

I'll also take the opportunity to replace the exhaust valve guides, port the heads and do a 3/4 angle valve job. 3 angle for the exhaust {30/45/60} and 4 for the intake {30/45/60/70}
 

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Discussion Starter · #629 · (Edited)
Just had a Shinko 230 tourmaster fitted to the back of the white 500C. I ordered a Shinko 712 {I have these on my blue standard and like them} but the supplier sent a 230.

Not worth worrying about so I just had the 230 fitted.

Reading a few tyre threads here over recent months tells me that a number of members have fitted 230s to these bikes and are happy with them.

Another couple of weeks and I'll buy a new AGM battery for the thingy and this bike can inherit the thingys AGM battery which must be 6 years old by now but just keeps on working even after extended periods of non use. It has never even needed charging.

AGMs are obviously much better than standard batteries. I don't think I've ever had one of those last more than three years in any bike.

Ran the plate for my CB450 through the rego system just out of interest. It is no longer in the system so will also require a numbers check for rego.

I last had it registered in 1982.

Just finished the 18" reversed rear comstar. On a 78 front at the moment. Will select a rear to pair with it and these two will likely be the last wheels before I move onto forks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #630 ·
I fitted a Finnbox g47 CDI to the white 500C yesterday .... only to find it doesn't work.

As it's not potted I can likely do some research on how to identify and test the components and replace whatever the offending item{s} is {are}.

I refitted the original CDI unit. The bike is running well on the stock system at least.

Still on the last set of wheels I'll be cleaning up for a while. Masking for painting now.

I have 5 sets of fork seals here ready to go through and rebuild the viable sets of forks that I have here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #631 ·
I've just been identifying and testing the components used here.

So far all of the diodes test OK. There are multiple resisters I will test once the banded codes are deciphered and values obtained.

Will find a test procedure for the capacitors.

209287


Can any of the electronics enthusiasts here identify the round components in the red circles? They are marked 470 ohm which suggests to me that they are resister but I can't find anything that looks like these. They may be dud also as one gives a resistance of 174 and the other 156. Is the square item it sits on a semiconductor?
 

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I'm no electronics enthusiast....(But) Were the Finnbox's new? (your shelf items?) or "recycled" from other projects? (I missed the continuity...no electronics pun intended)
 

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Discussion Starter · #633 ·
Found it I think.

Lurking under the wiring is a blown diode.

209288


Just need to find a value, purchase and solder in same and see if I have a working Finnbox. If not, keep testing. I think all of the resistors are OK as those with particular stripe patterns concur with others of the same pattern. If the diode doesn't pay out when replaced I'll get those values but at this point I'm hoping they won't be needed.

Bahn ... I forget who I bought this from. I've had it a few years. It was meant to be and appears to be new. But it was sold to me as an ignitech. I assumed it was an early ignitech and put it with my spare ignition parts. It even came with the ignitech disc and sheet. I smelled a rat when the hookup looked a little too much like a CDI unit. As I said, I thought it was an early ignitech without serial port .... but why was there a disc?
 

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Sounds like your almost there..IMHO .the internals do look Finnbox (c/w Andy62's profile pic...)BTW said member last active just a day ago... but Ive not seen the very early ignitechs
 

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Discussion Starter · #635 ·
Andy was last active a year ago yesterday. I sent him a message that he must have logged in to read.

The other problem is a missing section of ground track on the back of the circuit board. I'll lay a track of solder across the gap. I'm hoping that it will then work.

These are Andys pictures from google that I'm using.

Just trying to get the value of this diode. There is no body left. I identified it as a diode from Andys photos. The diodes used here APPEAR the same throughout the unit and those I can read say N40 M10. Doesn't correspond with anything at jaycar but they seem to be rated by voltage, wattage and whether the zener type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #636 ·
OK, I'm going to try a 1N4004 1 amp 400 volt diode based on the 400 volt capacitors.

The reason I'm not editing is that some of my forum keys are missing. I don't know if it's the forum or I need to update my computer programs.
 

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CX500 Z 1978 , Rickman Polaris fairing, currently GL500 front, Ignitech etc. subject to change
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identify the round components in the red circles?
they're condensators, ceramic type. The 470 stands for the value. Sturdy thingies, failure unikely.
 
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Discussion Starter · #638 ·
Thankyou.

I'm hoping once the groundtrack is repaired and the diode replaced the bugger will work and further suspicions will be unnecessary.

But it may yet be handy info ....
 

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Here's a link to a site containing description and circuit details (early version?) here (click) may be handy. And it looks like the round thingies are NTC, likely thermal protection or compensation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #640 ·
Thankyou yet again. The 4007 is rated at 1000 volts so the 4004 likely wouldn't have cut it at 400.

4 for $1.20 at our local {and only} electronics shop. Fortunately they're a good one.
 
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