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no issue with amperage - they flow milliamps - the main issue is robustness against vibration - 7.5 would do - wouldnt go to 5.
assuming older epoxy encapsulated hall ?

Actually repackaging the pulser adaptor to a plug into the 8 pin plug- so then it becomes - choose stock pickups or hall and cdi or TAI output advancer - all will mix and match -

Rayman
 
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Discussion Starter · #602 · (Edited)
Thanks Ray. Yes, it's one of the encapsulated hall units and I'm installing the non encapsulated unit you dropped off last time you were here.

I was planning to go through an 8 pin plug ...... unless I can think of an easier method to be able to swap back and forth.

Weirdly, the thingy has done over 1500 km and its motor and ignition unit had done at least another thousand or so in the blue shadow. Probably more. I've lost track but has never missed a beat.

I went with 7.5 amp wire with a 180 C temp rating. Wired the pulsers last night and will install and reassemble when I get the chance.
 

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Good to see another CX on the road....so you went full reg or club reg?

Sometimes the Rego office you deal with has a bearing on the difficulty/pain experienced.
I once had a roadworthy for the family car rejected (and stamped "Invalid"!) by the main office as the date wasn't written in words (as in fifteenth march two thousand and twenty) despite a date stamp etc....was told I need a new RWC....(I wont tell you the work-around but commonsense prevailed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #605 · (Edited)
I don't do club reg and it would create issues at sale here.

Having rego'd it I got an email of the rego certificate. It's just like my blue 500C. Year of manufacture stated as 1900 and the frame number not recorded. Both rego'd on the engine number alone. I asked some years back to have the blue ones frame number added to its certification but no one wanted to check the number.

Put fuel in it - fuel tap leaked like a pig. Drain fuel, change petcock. All good. Took for maiden flight to get more fuel {forgot to fit mirrors}. Runs well. Issues - speedo reads slow and temp gauge not working. Things to look into.

Will need tyres. These appear to be a brand new matched pair from a year in the last millenium endin with 7. I'd guess 97. Bike was last regod in 2017 but can't have been used much. It was a bit taily.

Have rewired and fitted the pickups to the blue shadows rear cover. Ditto the new hall unit. Now need to change mech seal and reassemble that one.

Still working on wheels ....
 

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Both my keepers are "full rego".
Yeah..know what you saying bout the mistype.....my CX500B had the VIN (frame #) recorded incorrectly in Tas (too many digits) even contacted Honda Australia to try to get a supportive letter prior to Vic transfer. Honda said they had no records!
Went to the local country reg office...they accepted it with a verbal comment "looks like they (Tas) just kept there finger on the button".....
Common-sence prevailed (rare these days!)

Sorry...mini thread hijack....
 

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Discussion Starter · #607 ·
Not a hijack, more a segue.

In Oz there appears to have been 2 importers of CXs. One in Queensland, the other in either Vic or NSW.

One apparently recorded details correctly and fitted compliance plates, the other, not. My 71 CB450 has a compliance plate, they were mandated in the ADRs in 74. Yet none on late 70s, early 80s CXs. Weird.
 

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Will need tyres. These appear to be a brand new matched pair from a year in the last millenium endin with 7. I'd guess 97. Bike was last regod in 2017 but can't have been used much. It was a bit taily.
2017 sounds about right.

I never put tyres on it, because I only managed to ride it about 70 ks, 50 of them on dirt. Then that bearing made it's presence known...
 

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Discussion Starter · #609 ·
It's running pretty well.

The tacho comes and goes.

I pulled the speedo to drill test and it barely moved. Fitted one that works and ..... it didn't work. I think the stiff one may have broken the cable. I pulled it from the instrument and grabbed the protruding inner cable on the roll and was able to stop it .... so, cactus

I've assembled the blue shadows motor and put it back in the frame with the rad installed, hooked up and filled. Still have to hook up the rest, fill the oil etc. as well as reinstall the raesan ignition as I removed it from the bike so that the motor could be timed on the bench. This is one of Rays new unpotted halls and one thing I notice is that there was no timing stagger between left and right.
 

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So you're a fan of the latest gen RaeSan over the previous ones?
 

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Discussion Starter · #611 · (Edited)
Dunno. After installing in the bike the hall didn't seem to work. The first V3 I fitted was the one from the bike and suspect. One red LED lit up solid and that's it. Fitted another V3 and all LEDs lit up but didn't flash.

I fitted a V2 and it is running through the stock pulsers. Not ridden it yet.

I'll recheck my work. It may be something I've done but I'm at a loss to see how.
 

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you have several "specials" there - so Im not sure which combination you tried - not everything will work with everything in your case - not seen a V4 not work - unless its reverse polarised - which wont hurt it - will just not operate -

rayman
 
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Discussion Starter · #613 ·
The one currently fitted is one of the bare {uncased units} I sourced from you running through the stock pulsers I just put back in. Back on pit bike coils for now.Mainly so the timing advance can be checked if need be.

I couldn't get any sense out of either V3. One has a non functioning LED so I don't know if the LED has failed or if there is an underlying cause. The other lit all 4 LEDs solidly and they don't flash. Your sites flowchart for the V3 suggests no power to advancer but I double checked all connections.

Didn't try a V4. I was going to but would have needed to make adapter wires and was running out of time.
 

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from memory there is an adaptor from one type to the other with that one - with the hall pickup you need the small capacitor adaptor in between to make it look like pulser coils -

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #615 · (Edited)
Yeah, I thought of that. They both had the same side of the connector.

What are the items that came with the board ignitions that are encased in heat shrink with 2 wires running through them? And where do they belong?
 

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they are the adaptors - go between the halls and the special boards you havbe to make them work like the pulser coils .. - same as I do for the ignitech ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #617 · (Edited)
Thanks Ray.

I had the LEDs flashing on a test fit of a V3 today so not sure what the issue there was. Bad connection I guess.

With the hall would I be right that red is power, green ground and yellow and brown left and right signals respectively?

Just took it for a shakedown with the bare board ignition fitted. Runs great. In fact, it hauls @r$e Must be the advance curve. I haven't played with that - yet.
 

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It's running pretty well.
Good to hear

The tacho comes and goes.

I pulled the speedo to drill test and it barely moved. Fitted one that works and ..... it didn't work. I think the stiff one may have broken the cable. I pulled it from the instrument and grabbed the protruding inner cable on the roll and was able to stop it .... so, cactus
Those are the instruments that Victor sent me from the US, so they should be good. That is unless you swapped them out with the rest of the front end bling. They have been sitting for a while though...
 

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(divergence) Is Victor doin' OK haven't seen him even on the Aussie site for a while either
 
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