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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Looking for Mr. Goodbore. A novellette by Judith Phreak.

I put the ball hone through this block today, the surface corrosion has bitten a little deep so I won't be using this one. I even resorted to stone honing it - no dice.

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Took a punt on one I pretty much knew was no good. I wasn't disappointed. Ditto on the stone hone.

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Third time's the charm. I think this is a block I bought from Ray some time back. After ball honing a little surface rust off the bores prove to be beautiful.

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So, having a block with really good bores that will require new main bearings {or at least the front one} to assemble I think I'll upgrade this build to better parts than I'd have used in the other block.

New rod bearings are needed. The old ones haven't failed but show hints of copper on the surface.

I'll be clearcoating the thingys bits tomorrow so I don't know when I'll get back to this motor, but likely Sunday.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I have always tried to keep my summer machines in decent condition and to do things right on them but I learned early that it is a loosing battle to keep everything up on the winter ones so I have done some stuff that is probably as bad as what your C's PO did, especially in pre-internet times when I had to figure out how to keep them running on my own with almost zero budget. I drove my first GoldWing for 5 winters and about 2 years in the rims of 2 of the carb slides broke away from the slides. I didn't know new ones were available (even if I could afford them) and I needed to drive it to get to work so I drilled a few tiny holes and tied them together with steel wire - not ideal but it kept it running.

As for your PO's water pump, I have contemplated doing something similar to Eccles a few times over the years :rolleyes:

BTW RE Check Engine Light: Those things are a very poor indicator of whether a vehicle is safe or about to have a problem because they light up for stuff that has absolutely nothing to do with the engine or chassis lot of the time. A few years ago I installed an HID headlight kit in Kay's CR-V and shortly after the CEL came on. The mechanic said the code he read meant a headlight was out (which made sense because the kit plugged into just one of the car's headlight sockets) so he re-set it and all was fine until the light came on again a few weeks later. After a while black tape over the light started to sound like a good idea.
One wonders, if reading an open circuit where the computer expected to see a lamp filament is important enough to tell you to take the car for repairs, why would it take up to a couple of months to notice it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Nah Bob, this feller was a butcher. The crack in the rear main bearing carrier? Screwdriver marks under it. I'll be binning that carrier. It appears looking at where it is that it may cause an oil gallery to leak and drop oil pressure. I have others and need to fit new bearings anyway.

I came to an impasse earlier tonight with the three viable cranks I have here being BB BB And a few sets of #2 rods. This combo wants a green bearing. Though Silvers sells these I currently have none.

But if I use the set of lightened NOS rods I have these are #1s and I can then use yellow bearings which I have a full set of.

So that, with good bores, good crank and lightened rods means I think I'll build for a little performance, maybe with an eye to another set of Murrays miks for the thingummy - son of thingy. :)

I'm polishing the milling marks out of the rods now.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Before I learned about the arrow in the caps that hold the axle to the forks I broke one of that 'Wing's caps. I really needed to go somewhere the next day so I cut a piece of aluminum the size of the bottom of the cap, drilled 4 holes for the studs and bolted it together.
And then there was the rear master cylinder that I had apart to clean & make work again so many times that the groove would no longer hold the circlip so once again I drilled little holes and used steel wire to hold it together. I did eventually replace it with a good used one (that is still in use on Mr.H a couple of proper rebuilds later).
And I still have little drawers in the shop with old rubber brake parts to use in emergencies, although it has been a long time since I used any of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
This feller continued to ride with a bung master cylinder. He just didn't care if the brake didn't work.. When his pump failed he rode without coolant.

Both fork seals were totally blown. The engine leaked oil from every orifice. He'd blind holed some bolts, stripped others. The rear cover was cracked around the inspection housing. Probably because the cover gasket was corrugated cardboard. Check out the silicon 'repair'.

My memory presently fails me, but there were numerous other issues. .... He was riding it with an unsecured standard tank.

This bloke took it to the next level.
 

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Glad I found this thread. Some wonderful money saving ideas. No telling how much money I could have saved
had I found this sooner. Ha, Ha, Ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I spent much of today preparing these rods for use. Aside from cleaning up the rough state they were left in I have corrected a 4.5 gram weight difference and got the balance factor to within .2 of a gram. I will now polish them and then reweigh and make any necessary revisions after.

I sold a hillman hunter engine today to a feller that has been buying odd Hillman bits from me for a while. He happens to own an engineering shop. He has taken three CX blocks and will swao some of the bore liners around so 2 good bores appear in one of the blocks at least. Though he thinks he has a source for the bore material Have to wait and see what he comes up with.

He has an early volkswagen with a 2 cylinder radial engine of his own design and manufacture. Not only does it go, it is on the road and registered. Interesting thing. It might have less cylinders, but it still sounds like a WW1 fighter.



In the meanwhile I dragged out another block which the hone showed to have good bores. So that's 2 I currently have ready to use.
 

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cx mellings has a diesel repair sleeve that can be cut in half to do 2 cylinders for the cx if you need i can give you the number or send you a few

i also have boring plate cnc program for the 500 and 650 if you or he wants a set of boring plates
 

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I understand the balancing part, but what is the benefit of polishing the rods?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
About one poofteenth {technical term} of a horsepower due to reduced drag through oil mist

And I've removed the stress risers and generally smoothed them out.

Final polishing is as much about entertainment value from there on, but most of the work is already done anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
cx mellings has a diesel repair sleeve that can be cut in half to do 2 cylinders for the cx if you need i can give you the number or send you a few

i also have boring plate cnc program for the 500 and 650 if you or he wants a set of boring plates
Thanks Murray, I don't know exactly what resources Chris shop has, when he contacts me I'll let him know, but the number would certainly be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Have now found two blocks with good bores and cleaned them up ready for rebuilding and sent another two blocks to a machine shop for some work which I'll outline later. {in case it goes pear shaped}.

I have prepared the crank to be used {you are witnessing the genesis of the thingummy} , conrods etc to go to the crank balancer next week and I'll include the photos I've emailed to the crank machinist here.

I was going to use new IMD piston pins - but went with a good used OEM set as the IBD pins weigh 25 grams more than the OEM. That would negate half of the weight lost on the rods. To me, this is an unacceptable weight disparity from OEM.

All assemblies have been weight matched.

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Ahhhh......Twins!
 
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