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I like the lower profile of that CoP setup. The taller setup has always put me off as not being aesthetically pleasing.
 

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its definately less visually imposing -
Im just revising the 3d printed rubber plugs to be a bit larger so they sit at the top of the plug hole -

Im thinking of maybe offering up the pre-wired connector plugs with the spacer plug as an addon / kit -
While I could offer the coils it probably is easier for people to just order those direct from a local source / ebay / amazxon and save the postage.

Rayman
 
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thats due to firmaware differences between CDI and TAI -
the CDI can trigger immediately -
whereas the TAI setup wont fire until 2 or 3 revolutions have occured as it needs to ensure the engine is spinning at sufficient speed and it needs to ensure that it can dwell for charging the coil correctly -

Some systems just turn the coil on and hope for the best - and then fire when they think its time -
this works for long dwell coils --but does mean the ignition is drawing upwards of 5A when you are cranking the engine - further dropping the voltage on the battery -
This also it likely to cause short dwell coils and COPs in particular to exceed their ratings ( and possibly fail) during this time.

Instead - v4 ensures that the engine is spinning and the rpm is > 180 RPM so it can accurately set the dwell to the coil to ensure it is not going to overstress it - before charging the coil - this also means the full battery power is available to get the engine spinning.

This does mean you see a few cranks before it fires on a v4.
and hence your observed difference :)

Lesson over
Rayman
 

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Discussion Starter #366
I knew they had spark delay on startup Ray.This behaves more like OEM CDI. They start instantly when the system is in good order.

I like the V3.

I'd post a smiley. But .... they're so .... wretched....
 

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came in late...so these COP bits and compatibility with the Seadoo will/have already appeared on the Rae-San site? or in development? Also are they an option for people running the aged CDI and wanting to bypass the ebay pitbike gamble that has been clearly documented in running/performance issues with ebay specials....
 

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Discussion Starter #368
I'll let Ray comment on his wares.

But the ebay ignition coils on this 500C look identical to the ones I bought some years back that work very well.

Identical .... except they are only 2/3 the size.

These must work as they were on the bike.

My point is that there are huge variables in apparently identical coils on ebay.

In this case its size. In others it will be resistance or quality.
 

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yes - they are on the site - cop testing
yes - they will work with all CDI and you can bypass the pitbike gamble - you also bypass the need to get plug caps and wires ..... the only hassle is the connectors -
I can pop the stl up for the grommet on the manuals page -

Rayman
 
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thanks to both...cheers.
As an aside WITHOUT hijacking this tread....has anyone thought bout updatin' the Wiki?
 

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Discussion Starter #371
I gave up on the wiki. It is dysfunctional.

i don't mind writing or editing articles. But I have a do it once mentality. Nothing seems to work long without needing be redone.

And my login no longer works anyway.
 

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all is cool ....but while much of the data is still relevant some is outdated or at least theres alternatives....like the COP and ignition alternatives
 

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Some systems just turn the coil on and hope for the best - and then fire when they think its time -
this works for long dwell coils --but does mean the ignition is drawing upwards of 5A when you are cranking the engine - further dropping the voltage on the battery
I suspect the Dyna S system I have on the GoldWing ('82 GL1100 engine with '77 cams & '79 carbs) is like that. I haven't measured the current it draws but I see a notable difference in the system voltage when I flip the kill switch.
This one had a GL1000 engine & carbs for the first couple of decades, for over half of that with the original points it always needed to crank a bit before it caught. When I installed the Dyna it seemed to start a bit quicker and since I replaced the original GL1100 coils with GL1500 coils and in the process did away with the ballast resistor it fires after about one revolution if it has been driven regularly.
 

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yep dyna S is really just a points replacment with an electonic switch - no smarts - if the engine stops with it triggered that coil will be left powered. without ballast resistors it can burn out the coil if left with the ignition power switched on.

I do a version which uses the dyna as pickups - and still provides the coil protections and electronic advance - it needs the mechanical advance mechanism locked but other than that drops in between the pickups and coils - fyi

Back to your scheduled programming....

Rayman
 

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Discussion Starter #375
I've finished the front wheel for the 500C. It came up reasonably well. Forks are refitted and I've made a start on the switch gear. This will be rebuilt and refurbished .... once I get a couple of recalcitrant screws out.

The Raesan 3.5/seadoo coils combination continues to work well in my standard. After the hybrid prototypes this is my favourite raesan ignition. For some reason I like the CDI based offerings best and my bikes seem to agree.

Going out in a couple of hours to pick up a pair of draggin jeans through a gumtree sale. Think I'll take the thingy as it's not moved for a while and it hates that. :)
 

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thanks for the update on the Raesan/seadoo setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #377
No worries Dfresh.

Picked up a new pair of draggin jeans with knee inserts for $40. Score. 75 metre slide rated.

The knee inserts cost more than that.
 

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sounds like you got quite the deal on those.
 

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Discussion Starter #379
I did.

I think the feller may have been moving and wanted his stuff gone. I only bought the jeans but he had a fair bit of stuff advertised. I asked if any of the gloves were left as I need another set {I wear them out} but he'd sold the lot.

He'd just sold his M109 due to new baby syndrome.
 

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I rode a 109 once, not a fan at all.
 
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