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Discussion Starter #321 (Edited)
Because when you pull off a driven flange there is usually a white sealant already in the area.

Presumably it was factory sealed. The area has 2 O rings so presumably it was to prevent leakage of hot grease.

I've finished this bike now. It runs fairly sweetly but won't accept full throttle. 38 mm miks are usually used on cylinders of around 650 cc.

The front end really needs the forks and brakes looking at. The brakes aren't good and there's no point changing brake pads until the leaking forks are fixed. The lines are also beyond their use by date.

I can improve the suspension and brakes 100% just going on my 500 standard. I rode both today, first mine to test a coilover ignition coil, then Jacks bike, then mine again to run errands. The bikes have identical setups {twin discs, 38 mm calipers}. The difference is chalk and cheese.

The Mikes XS ignition coils used with the V4 raesan on my bike were still talking to each other {RFI, EMI.... whichever} even though I'd made shielded mounts so I stuck a coilover on the right today.

This has solved the issue I think so I'll swap the left side tomorrow. I was without power tools today due to a scheduled maintenance on our local power grid so just did the one. I am using irrigation fittings to install ford falcon coils.
 

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Gotcha, thanks for the info.

Is the coil "talk" only with the version 4 of the RaeSan or other versions too?
 

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Discussion Starter #323
Only the V4 as it uses 12 volt coils.

It will be the raesan/coil pack combo and not simply the raesan.

I thought I had this licked so I'll just go coilovers.

This is the thingummy motor. It will run coilovers anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #324
Have just done an inspection on the motor of the 500C I acquired from Dragonstaff.

Was hoping the knocking noise Dave described was a broken camchain tensioner component.

But it's the left side rod bearing.

This is no indictment on Dave. He was upfront about the mechanical racket and the bike was cheap enough costing me a rebuild on a set of GL1200 carbs and a CX500 set to come.

I am now considering whether to take the crank from another motor I was preparing to rebuild for this one or not.

Going back to the shed to tidy up and ponder on this - and check if I have a second viable crank to make the decision easier .....
 

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the coils CXPREAK were using are a QC-0026 / MikesXS 4 ohm coil - early on these looked like a vaible option - but as noted they seem to talk to each other with the high enegies employed in the V4 setup - they can be made to behave but require abot 12" separation it seems - i dont think any were ever sent to anyone as I only ever got them in for evaluation-
they are not o nthe recommended list for the V4 coils -

Rayman
 

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Discussion Starter #326
Hi Ray, I've fitted a pair of the falcon coilovers and think this has cured the problem. I'll find out for sure when I go down to Lonsdale to pick up some paint tomorrow or Tuesday.

The long slow climb up ocean boulevard is where it was at its worst but I've not noticed it at all since the coil change.

Coils fitted with irrigation fittings. I'll upload some pics later.

Have decided to pull down Dragonstaffs and my 500C side by side. Neither should be an enormous job as neither bike is truly a basketcase.

Have found a second crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #327
I've been going over the 81 500C I got from Dragonstaff. General cleanup for the bike and a rebuild for the motor.

I have picked it out a crankshaft. Not a great one, but a viable one. It measures up OK but has a few marks on the journals. Nothing significant. This cranks main issue was that the motor had ingested water at the back which rusted out the starter clutch needle roller bearing which in turn rusted grooves into the bearing area of the crank.

I filled these with JB weld and block sanded back to the original level. Bodgy yes, but should hold up to the needle rollers OK.

I have selected two used main bearings that give clearances of around 2 - 2.5 thou.

New green rod shells to be fitted giving a clearance of .6 mm.

I know the two clearances are given in different figures. Mains checked by internal measuring placed into external micrometer and clearance measured by feeler. Rods plastigauged...

Bores look OK and will be honed before the final clean out of the block. It'll get new rings of course.

I tested the CDI components as a matter of course and while everything was found to be in spec, there was one anomaly that can't have helped with running - 1 and 2 were transposed in the stator plug. These are the right side high and low speed pulsers. I doubt it ran too well.

Aside from the engine the ugliest aspect of this bike is the wheels. Nothing actually wrong with them - just manky. I've had the rear inside the last couple of nights and will finish its cleanup and polishing tonight.

The front will be done once the motor goes back i and I can jack up the front.

Swingarm bearings were checked last night and found to be good
 

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I'd like to live within an hour of your shop. (y) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #329
You'd be welcome too.

I have this ready to begin assembly.

But here's some pics taken over the last several days or so.

This is the crank that was removed. There's your clatter.

202782
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These are the good {relatively speaking} bearings. Not sure where the spun ones ended up. I may have binned them. .... Bin has been emptied...

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They're showing a little copper at one end.

I've been waiting for the next time I was using my crank puller to finish and paint it. Between pulling the crank from this and then pulling the new crank after test fitting this was accomplished.

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About .6 mm clearance I reckon - both rods with new green bearings.

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One bore is great.

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The other not so much. This has had water sitting. The one saving grace is that it is right at the top so not too much compression should be lost and it shouldn't be an oil burner as the oil ring barely touches it. I have blended it with the flex hone so it shouldn't damage the rings but I may have to get creative with the ring end gap placement. I've seen worse run just fine.

202788
 

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Not sure where the spun ones ended up.
For those of us that are still learning, the term "spun bearing" means: due to wear of the bearing the clearance between the con rod and crank become large enough that the bearing actually comes out of its "perch" and spins around, aka "re clocks" its orientation in the con rod?
 
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Definitely like the low profile mounting of the coil overs better than a bar across the valve cover, nice!

Will the plastic hold up to the heat of the engine?

What secures the plastic into the valve cover?
 

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BTW: The term spun can apply to roller and ball bearings too but in that case it usually refers to the wear in the bore the bearing is pressed into that lets the bearing move around in the bore (often as a result of the bearing seizing).
 

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For those of us that are still learning, the term "spun bearing" means: due to wear of the bearing the clearance between the con rod and crank become large enough that the bearing actually comes out of its "perch" and spins around, aka "re clocks" its orientation in the con rod?
If you look at Mark's picture of the bearing shells, you will see at the bottom of the right-hand one (out of focus and a little blurry) a spot where the shell has been 'notched' so that a small piece is sticking out. This 'notch' sits in a corresponding notch in the bearing cap or the rod, and stops the bearing from rotating. When they spin, this notch has got thin enough to bend back so that it no longer holds the shell from rotating inside the rod and cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Dfresh - a spun bearing is a bearing that due to wear and excessive clearance manages to rotate in its rod eye until both bearing shells are in the same side of the assembly rather than one per side. Much as Dragonstaff said.

Bob, yep, seen roller bearing shells scored on the outside too. Things will always take the path of less friction.

On that subject, I replaced the two gtearbox bearings in the back of the block on the dragonstaff bike last night as the metal going through everything had damaged them. All other gearbox bearings were reused as they seemed to spin OK after cleaning. The crank throws rubbish straight into the gearbox when it starts making metal.

The gearbox itself was dismantled, cleaned, checked and reassembled ready to be fitted today. I'll go out shortly and install the crank, sort some rings, throw in the rods and pistons and install the gearbox. If I get any further today it'll be the strip and clean of the clutch as this too will be full of metal.

As for the bike itself I finished cleaning up a rear guard and tail light assembly last night so am ready to put the rear end back together with the exception of a few bits still to be cleaned and inspected.
 

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Discussion Starter #336
Definitely like the low profile mounting of the coil overs better than a bar across the valve cover, nice!

Will the plastic hold up to the heat of the engine?

What secures the plastic into the valve cover?
99% sure they will stand up to the heat Doug. They shouldn't see more than 90 c in that location. Probably less.

They are retained by friction being tapped into the valve cover. The coil is also a friction fit to the irrigation fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Slow movement on this at the moment. not been getting out to the shed as much as usual.

But the crank and rod and piston assemblies have been installed along with the transmission and shift linkages.

Shifting tested, all gears selecting.

Have gotten sidetracked into going through all of the 500C tail lights I have here {where did I get so many?}.

Have refurbished 4 tail lights and 2 mounts, one of each to go on this bike of course. All the dreck that's been circling the drain for an extended period can now go into the recycling or bin as appropriate.

Now going through all of the indicators to select a pair for the rear of this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #338
I got a bit further with this today - and found the failed bearings - and the reason they failed.

While the 'good' {relatively speaking} rod bearings were of Honda origin the failed rod bearings aren't and the adaptation isn't good.

This appears to have been a bearing set for a larger journal that has been somehow forced to match the required curvature and the ends ground down to suit.

This may have worked except for two things. Unless this motor ran for extended milage with these bearings {which I sincerely doubt} they were shagged when installed. There is no babbit on them.

But the other thing is that there are no anti spin/locator tabs. but this is the clue to what has been done as the very beginning of the tabs can be seen giving a clue to how much bearing has been ground away.

I fitted the cam today, cleaned and checked the clutch and installed that and went through the oil pump and also installed that.

Before disassembly the oil pump was notchy and difficult to turn so I expected it to be completely ruined. Wear is actually fairly minimal though there is some scoring. cleaned and reassembled it rotates smoothly so was used along with the original chain, though I did file the adjustment a tad.

I'll get some photos of the bearings tomorrow. The camera batteries karked it.

Going through all of the 500C indicators tonight to select a set for the rear of this one.
 

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Bloody hell!

Sorry Mark.
 
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