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Discussion Starter #301
I have new gaskets for patterns. I trace these.

Usually I only cut the inside of a case gasket and cut the outer with a razor after assembly.

The front cover is assembled to the motor and awaiting trimming now.

I'll make everything but head and valve cover gaskets.

And yes, it saves a s###load. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #305
Another quick update.

I got sidetracked with the disgraceful wiring and some of the electrics that didn't work.

The start button was non functioning and found to have a broken tab that is meant to hold it together. The switch was replaced with a momentary switch which almost fits right in. Bike was being started by a key switch below the seat. Now Jack has 2 choices and can restart safely if he stalls in the path of danger.

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The killswitch was non functioning - traced to a broken wire at the switch - fixed.

All other switches dismantled and cleaned.

The wiring in general is deplorable. I've tidied it up some and gotten everything to work but a full repair would pretty much mean a rewire. The one exception is the 'pass' light. This switch wasn't working and I couldn't get this one apart or it would likely have broken so was just sprayed with contact cleaner and manipulated until it started working. Now fitted, there is still no pass light. Either the switch stopped working again or there is another fault in this circuit. This is unlikely though as the switch shares the wiring with high beam - which works. I expect insect silk in the switch. There was a lot in the general area.I still have a bit to do on this bike so am ignoring this as a minor issue.

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Not perfect, but tidied up some.

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I've left the connectors accessable. Before everything was taped over which is unhelpful with troubleshooting, especially with non standard wiring with odd wire colours that change over their lengths. Good fun.

New oil filter in, final engine stuff buttoned up and motor ready to refit tonight. Was going to fit the motor yesterday but the electricals took longer than expected. I should have known.

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I have put some weld on the steering stops as the clip ons were contacting the fuel tank.

The front end needs rubbing out and drawing again. Head stock bearings are extremely loose. While I haven't adjusted them yet {I'll do this once the engine is back in and I can jack the front off of the ground}. I think they're shagged and appear to be OEM balls.

The fork seals are leaking and have contaminated the brake pads. The brake lines appear to be 40 year old originals.

Will shorten the clutch cable as it is much too long for the clip ons.

The bike is overcarbed having 38 mm mikunis. This may need to be addressed - or not. Anyway, I've cleaned and rebuilt these and hopefully fixed the left carb overflow situation. The right had a vacuum leak at the intake boot. These have been made to match with O rings. One had broken and was only partially in the joint and likely explains the disparity in adjustments side to side.

Update again in a day or two.

The bike is also to be serviced with regards to final drive oil change, lubing of all pivot points {stands etc.} and the drive splines to be cleaned checked and relubed.

Coils have been checked as OK and the resister caps serviced. One had no continuity but was just dirty. Even the resisters were still good.

I have a fix for the haphazardly working rear brake light switch which involves making a more secure mount for the cancelling plunger so that it accurately hits the switch. The front switch wiring was twisted together so I'm guessing the rest of its wiring is MIA. That's OK for now as there is no switch and would be easy enough to lay in some wires once there is a switch.
 

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I look forward to your shop stories, informative AND enjoyable to read. Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter #307
Thanks Rich.

The headlight high beam flash button now functions.

It may use the same wires from switch to light as the high beam but doesn't share its power supply. I noticed there was no power connected at the left control switch block. Hooked that up to the headlight fuse and now that works. Whoever wired the bike must have considered it unimportant. On the other hand the switch itself wasn't working before cleaning. so ......

All handlebar controls now function.

The engine is installed into the bike but .....

It continues to fight. Most of the connections necessary to detach to remove the engine have had to be redone as the connectors have been dropping off of the very small gauge instrument wires. My fix for this is to strip about an inch of the wire and fold it up enough to get a good crimp with an OEM type terminal and also build the insulative sheath on the wire up with a few layers of heatshrink so that the crimps can also get a hold of the sheath. And solder.

It also had dropsy on many of the poxy lucar connectors. Several actually just fell off of the thermo fan system and a couple of other items.

I made up a new starter motor cable to better suit the under motor location of the solenoid

Due to the new locations of RR and ignition I will shorten the stator wiring tomorrow instead of 'stuffing'.

'Designing' the part for the rear brake light switch now.
 

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I understand that the "flash" button is for passing but here that isn't required and those of us who choose to do so just use the high/low switch anyway so it really isn't something I'd consider important. That's why when I changed to UK spec Enfield switches I set up the flash buttons to operate the garage door remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
I just take the view that if equipment is fitted it should work.

And the bean switch only works if you have the lights on. But point taken.
 

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We are required to have the headlight on all the time on bikes manufactured after a certain date (in the early '70s IIRC) so anything made after that doesn't come with a headlight switch (that's why the Start button kills the headlight). I have always added a headlight switch of some sort so that I can turn it off when I am working on something and don't want to run the battery down.
FWIW, the Enfield switches have the standard 3 position headlight switch and I was able to wire them so the positions are off, bike headlight only (daytime) and bike + sidecar headlights (night).
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Our laws say fitted equipment must work. Though I don't think they'd actually be concerned with the pass switch.

Have fitted the horn. Forgot it. You don't normally need to remove the horn to remove an engine. Also rewired.

Have made some alterations to the fan thermo switch wiring. I don't think it can have been working with the riring it had through the thermo switch and was being run through an over ride.. Now if I bridge the switch terminals the fan comes on, so it's up to whether the switch itself works. The switch itself is screwed into the back of the thermo housing where the temp switch normally lives. It looks to me like the OEM switch from a 650. Only problem with that is here it's measuring the hot side. On the 650 it is mounted into the bottom tank of the radiator so it's the cold side.

Have made the exhausts into assemblies that don't fall apart using aluminium flashing gaskets and they are ready to fit tomorrow.

And fixed the bloody brake light switch. Twice this bike has arrived here with the brakelight just on. As bad as no brake light. It goes on AND off reliably now.


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I've adjusted the steering bearings. They have a mild notch in the straight ahead position but aren't as shagged as I was expecting given how loose they were. Should still be facored for future replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
Quick update.

Engine installed and running. Thermo fan working from thermo switch but coming on early as I'd expected. The right heat range switch and it will be fine.

I pulled the rear wheel and final drive to relube the drive splines and check on the swingarm bearings.

With the shocks and the weight of the final drive removed the state of the swingarm bearings can be felt.

These actually felt good so i removed the swingarm to clean and lube these. If they were knackered I'd have just left them and informed Jack that they need replacement. These were degreased and chucked in the ultrasonic for 15 minutes, dried and repacked with general purpose grease.

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Drive splines were in good order. Cleaned and regreased with 30% moly.

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A little sealant on the back. While not called out in the FSM Honda used a white sealant here.

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The usual issue with the lower left shock mount with aftermarket shocks - the wrong bush.




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I put together some sleeves to take up the slack, but after coming in realised I likely have suitable bushes put away. Will check tomorrow.

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And I need to come up with something better for this, which I consider criminal. This is the factory bolt to connect torque arm to brake hub.

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The alloy torque arm is much thicker than the pressed tube original. The bolt can't be fully tightened as there is no shoulder to tighten the bolt against. It is tightening against rubber. The split pin cannot be installed with a normal nut. It is just luck that this didn't come undone.

I will nut out something better.

Nearly finished.

Last thing is the rear tail light mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #315
It's a bit loud ..... and half a baffle fell out of one ....

Unfortunately, as beautiful as the paintjob is it has a problem. Whoever painted it painted it right up onto the sealing area and it has fuel damage in the form of a couple of large bubbles. Large enough to be coming out from under the cap cover.

I think I can fix it. It needs to be rubbed back 3/4 of an inch from the filler neck, superglue injected under the still flexible paint and the paint pressed flat. Then a couple of coats of por 15 to cover the now bare area around the filler neck and the new paint edge.

Regarding the torque arm bolt, that is one of several ideas I'm pondering.
 

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Could you counterbore the torque arm so that the nut was recessed into it? Or how about just changing to a regular bolt that is long enough with a spacer for the nut to tighten against?

Now you've got me thinking about Eccles' torque arm. I just scraped off the flaking paint & loose rust a couple of days ago and brushed on some rust paint while doing general touch up. Because of splash from the tire it always seems to be in worse shape than anything else and I expect to eventually find holes in it. Now I'm wondering if I wouldn't be better off with a flat piece of steel like the KZ440 had - at least it couldn't rust out from the inside....
 

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A little sealant on the back. While not called out in the FSM Honda used a white sealant here.
What do you mean by sealant? What do you use?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Sorted the torque arm issue. Once I'd removed the torque arm the answer became obvious.

If the metal can be this thin at the front....

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It can be this thin at the back.

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Done.

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Dfresh - stag. Made forever because it's one of the best
Is that like pipe dope (thread sealing compound)? What for you do that?
 
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