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Discussion Starter #281
Thanks Dfresh.

I glue pulled this dent last night. {photos to come}

This tank had had both sides smashed in presumably so the badge bars could be bogged over. Obviously done with the peining end of a ball pein hammer.

Really pleased with it. Am going to attack the other side tonight. {the other side is the tank a few posts back with the arrow pointing to the pulled spot weld for the badge bar.}

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Discussion Starter #282
I've nearly finished the tank I have been working on. All dents glue pulled and the pulled spot weld where one of the badge bars used to sit has been mig welded.

I have also glue pulled all of the dents in two of the other tanks here which I'll be getting into once I've finished this one and have bought a few more supplies.

One final tank will need weld pulling. It has two dents. One I attempted to glue pull and got 80% of the dent but will need weld pulling for the final 20% and the other that is nasty and well beyond anything that can be pulled with glue.

I did the filler on this one last night and will be priming it today for rubbing down tonight.

A note on welding on fuel tanks - it's not particularly safe even if precautions are taken.

Before doing the weld on this one the residue inside was cleaned out withcaustic salts based truck was. The tank was filled with hot water, laid on its side with the hole to be welded uppermost and the tank filled to a few mm below the hole using a syringe. I still had ignition of fumes in the tank. About 4 times. No explosions but a sustained squirting of water through the hole in the tank as the ignited fumes tried to escape. Even with precautions this can be dangerous. Though if not actually filling a hole you can weld below the water line which should be safer. In this case the hole had to be kept above the water line - hence ignitable - though minimal - fumes.

Don't believe the person who says you can throw a lit match into a tank to flash it off making for safe welding after {if the match didn't blow you up}. Obviously fumes can ignite more than once. Thus ends the lesson in Darwinist theory. :)

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Mark, I've mentioned this in several posts over the years, but it must not be taking hold. Before you do any welding on a tank, pour a couple cups of acetone in the tank, slosh it around a few minutes, drain it, put and air blower in to dry out the left over acetone till it's fully dry! When it is dry, you can throw a lite match in it or start welding with NOW FEAR of explosions. The acetone dissolves all the gas residue including the fumes. Try it on the next tank. I promise you, you won't have the same problem you had with using water and caustic solutions.
 
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Discussion Starter #284
Thanks Larry, sounds like a plan.

I had likely read that info but forgot it as it had no relevance to me at the time.

I did however final rinse the tank with acetone afterwards to prevent flash rusting .

A thought I did have is that the hot water I had in the tank while welding was actually a solution of caustic salt cleaner. This was likely pulling the old fuel residue from the tank as I worked, releasing it as vapour to rise to the surface.

I note it also seems to strip mild rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Photos to come but I picked up an 81 500C yesterday in exchange for rebuilding a set of GL1200 carbs and a set for a CX500.

Fairly tidy bike built by member Dragonstaff which unfortunately had the motor begin to make a clattering noise. If it needs a crank, I have one here for it.

6 standard fuel tanks completed ready to paint. The number I have here having blown out to 10 having found 2 more in the back shed - and then dropping back to 9 after one started to come apart while having a large dent pulled out. Metal thinned by rust that had got in around the dent on both sides leading to a number of pin holes where the welds pulled from the metal while pulling the dent. Tried lead puddling the area. Damn I'm bad at that - no dice. This tank may end up a thingy style tail section - only for a bike with a standard tank. I also have an old headlight from an older, smaller Suzuki that matches the shape of the standard tank to go on the same bike.

I used Larrys method of preparing the tank above for welding. No explosions. :)
 

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No brain cells were harmed in the process of "leading" the tank... :ROFLMAO:

I've watched old videos on youtube where those guys were leading and painting all day long without any PPE, those were real men!
 

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Unless you put the lead in your mouth or put your fingers in your mouth after handling the lead it shouldn't do you any harm. Yes, lead can do you harm but it isn't as dangerous as popular media would lead you to think. When I was studying electronics in school we often held the part with one hand, the soldering iron with the other and the piece of solder in our mouths (not to mention eating while working on projects that involved soldering) and when, after most of a decade of that, I took a job at a place that did lead casting and had to have my blood tested for lead my levels were very low.

BTW: I've been watching this YouTube channel recently (he's doing a series on restoring a derelict Ford Model A) and he always uses lead instead of plastic filler. Thinking about it, the fumes from plastic filler are probably just as harmful as the lead....
 

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Discussion Starter #288
The leD didn do meanny ham.

A new addition to the shed. Needs to be gone through completely but is all there.

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I'll not mess with it much but will stripe it. The plain white is a little stark.

The handlebars are bent {I hate pullbacks anyway} and I have a better seat for it and some original rear indicators and better grab bar.

In exchange for rebuilding these for a GL1200 and another CX set.

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They're pretty foul. They stank my shed out, nothing moved properly and everything was jammed up with varnish.

This was still in them even after an overnight soak in the dip and about an hour in the ultrasonic. Things usually come out clean after that.

201835


One side, the plenum etc are all done and reassembled with the carbs for the other side slithering through the process.

Finally did the thingys seat today.

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Something that is often overlooked with 4 cylinder 'Wing carbs but can come back to bite you is the carb to plenum seals. They are D-rings, not O-rings (deeper and with a flat side) and if they start to leak fuel will puddle in the bottom of the plenum.
 

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Discussion Starter #292
Thanks for that Bob.

Crossed wires.

But you did make me re examine the D rings. Though the compression factor still seemed OK I pulled the first two back out, silicon wiped them and once cured reassembled. Nothing's going to leak there. Ditto the second pair.

I've also done the same to the float bowls and will do the plenum top cover tonight.

These will be finished tonight as my O ring order arrived this morning
 

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FWIW, I chased what I thought was a starter motor problem on my 'Wing for several years, including kit rebuilding the starter, buying an aftermarket replacement and having another one rebuilt professionally and it still was very hard to re-start the engine when it was hot most of the time. I ended up noticing fuel in the plenum while looking for something else and after some testing I figured out that fuel was pooling there while the engine was running and depending on where the engine stopped (there's almost always an intake valve open on a 4) a cylinder could part fill with fuel, making it hard for the starter to turn it when hot but if it sat for half an hour enough of the fuel evaporated for it to start normally.
The D rings were had reacted with the fuel and swelled and cracked (the carb kit seller had a supplier problem and replaced them for me) and when I replaced them the problem went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
GL carbs finished and back with Dave.

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Jacks bike here for a triple and a variety of other stuff.

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A mirror inspection showed that the chain had run out of adjustments. I thought it had been caught before any damage had been done. The exhaust is pretty loud and must have masked the noise. The tensioner blade was broken at the top eye and the guide rail was in three pieces.

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Discussion Starter #295
Jack said it was running hot. this would be the reason - no splines in the impeller. Fortunately the cam spline is OK

202108


The chain is that knackered it won't even hang straight. Don't think I've seen that before.

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New chain going in. Note witness mark on back of sprocket that shows which side faces the cam. If fitted backwards noise and rapid wear will result.

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Align crank and fit sprocket. Don't worry if the valve springs have moved the cam. For now just align and fit the chain and sprocket.

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Now rotate the cam into position and fit the bolts with blue loctite.

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I hold the cam this way to torque the bolts. It basically emulates the factory holding tool.

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Bolts were torqued to 165 in/lb - 3 in/lb short of the 14 ft/lb max torque figure {12 - 14}
 

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Discussion Starter #296
New chain fitted. Also some good used OEM parts that pass the thumbnail and flex test.

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And the cover plate added.

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The chain had even nibbled the centre cover bolt. I've seen them chew through the cover, but never touch the bolt.

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Expected fried stator. Bike runs an ignitech.

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The horror perpetrated at the front of the cam to facillitate the fitting of a {kawasaki?} thermo fan.

I've never seen one hacked off inside the seal area. This one had a piece of steel rod siliconed into the seal.

I'm going to try capping it with a welsh plug.

202119


The mechanical seal was in three pieces. I saw no leaks before disassembly and while the oil was vile there was no sign of cross contamination either.

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Discussion Starter #297
Surprisingly the oil pump came through all of the bolt chewing. The hardened bolt pieces often get through the pickup screen and score the pump internals badly. This one has minimal marks considering so was reassembled and fitted along with a new chain.

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That's the engine internal work done.

Tomorrow night I'll do the stator swap and test the pickups. They were untested as I couldn't find where the builder of this particular bike had mounted the ignition and plugs. Also change the mech seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #298
A couple more hours on this tonight out in the shed.

Brass welsh plug installed and the cam support reinstalled with new OEM gasket and O ring.

This engine had multiple oil leaks and I think the O ring here must have been one of the culprits as it wasn't only flat, but chewed. I think someone had put it back rather than replace it at some point. It'd be a fair bet that the front bodge was also leaking.

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I took off a suspiciously shiny high spot that I think must have been nibbling the tach worm. Precision angle grinder job. 😁

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New O ring and gasket wiped with stag.

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Finished.

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The ultrasonic made a remarkably effective paint stripper.

I also cut gaskets for the front and rear cover. I've got the rear cover inside for the stator change tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
A bit more done. New mechanical seal and rear cam oilseal fitted.

Front cover fitted with new O rings throughout.


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Don't forget the dowels, gearbox oil jet and O rings.

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New Orings for the oil pipe. These are likely 40 years old in most CX motors. Failure gives poor oil pressure.

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When assessing a motor the stator can be glimpsed through the advancer cover without removal of the main cover.

202185
 

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when you make your own gaskets i understand you can just lay a cover on a sheet of gasket material and trace around it but how do you get the outline for the inside of the cover?

I assume it's a huge $$$ savings to cut your own gaskets?

Are there any gaskets you prefer to buy as opposed to make?
 
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