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And I've actually missed the whole Vrod thing because the forum no longer takes you to the first unread post.
That’s one of the things I like most about the new forum. I hated scrolling to the last page every time and then sometimes I had to back up one page to get to where I left off. Now it always takes me to where I left off.
 

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and you know that how??

it says

Does anyone know the peak revs of these harley motors

not peak rev of these harley sporster motors

AND WHY DOES IT MATTER TO YOU?????

and when did you become lord and protector of content ?

do i have to send you a memo first ?
 

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No, you don't need my permission to post anything. And it was interesting to learn how high a V-Rod revs.
BUT there have been a number of references to these being Sportster mufflers, including right before he asked about the peak revs of "these Harley motors"
The bike is much better with the sportster mufflers fitted and I've just added the K+N filter from my 500C to the airbox.
These are {presumably} sportster mufflers but unknown whether from an 883 or 1200 {if the mufflers are in fact different}

Does anyone know the peak revs of these harley motors? If the pumping flow from the harley motor is high enough that should be OK for a CX, which while it has smaller cylinders to exhaust presumably spins {and therefor pumps} a lot faster. With a known peak rev, comparitive flow should be calculable.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
I've learned a couple of things here.

Hitting the icon on the left of the page takes you to the last unread post. On the last version of the forum it took you to the first post in the thread.

I've been clicking on the right which just takes you to the last post made.

While I actually was talking harley sportster mufflers the info on V rod mufflers is interesting to me as these mufflers just HAVE to flow enough for a CX and since I need to be somewhat opportunistic in sourcing such things here the Vrod mufflers may be what I have the chance to buy.

I've checked the local harley dealerships for take off mufflers to no avail.

Here, they give the take off parts back to the customer.

I do have a lead on a couple of sportster sets through a 'want' ad on gumtree.

I would still like to know if unmolested sportster mufflers will have enough flow for the CX at peak RPM.

I like quiet..
 

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try coast yamaha - they had some last time i asked ....
 

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Discussion Starter #274
I've just rebuilt another set of these carbs that have been in my parts for years.

The mixture screws were seized in and even after chemical soaking and a few rounds in the ultrasonic and attempted hot removals these things were stuck and required winkling out with vice grips, leaving the heads in a pretty unusable and mangled shape.

As these were genuine Keihin mix screws and otherwise in good order I decided to see if they could be salvaged.

Squaring off the mangled remains to fit the tappet adjuster tool seemed an idea so I gave each a minute or so quality time on the fine wheel of the bench grinder.

This worked fine. In fact, I may do all of my mix screws this way in future. The engagement is much more positive than a screw headwhich helps a lot when making adjustments on a running motor as this doesn't keep slipping off.
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And a couple of magnified pics of the results of pulling idle jets with an easy out.

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And here a 4/40 tap and pulll'

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Discussion Starter #275
I started prepping this tank for the Ozdeluxe as I thought it was the best tank I have here. After beginning this one I realised I had one in original paint with no dents on a bike down the back, so that is what the Ozdeluxe will get.

Having started on this tank I'll finish it to paint ready standard and store it.

I have 5 standard tanks here, all with dents. I may prep them all paint ready. I'll see ...

But, back to this one. One side has one large dent which looks like somebody attacked it with a ball pein hammer and something with a rectangular end. It doesn't look accidental to me having so many separate impact marks. There are also a number of smaller dents of varying size a couple of which I pulled but the rest will just get filler.

I sanded the area clean before doing anything else.

This tank had been stripped with paint stripper at some point before I got it. This is 'as received'.

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I made an adaptor for my home made slide hammer to take M6 threaded rod. I made 7 pulling rods from the threaded rod, grinding a taper in the working tip where they would be welded to the tank. I identified 4 positions for the initial pull.

In the photo above the edges of the dent have been dressed down on the creases with a small ball pein hammer. This helps to relax the metal allowing the dent to be pulled. Plus you need to get rid of the ridge anyway or it will become a high point.

I knew this dent wouldn't come out cleanly as it is a complex dent that would need dollying from behind to entirely remove so would settle for not slathering so much bog {bondo} into it.

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These were pulled with the slide hammer.

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And another added and pulled after cleanup on the first 4 with cutting, grinding and flap wheels, each in turn.


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As well as two of the largest small dents.

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\
Now to finish stripping the paint and rust. Unfortunately, whoever did the paint stripper hit it underneath too.

By the way, the outlet was blanked and the tank filled to the top with hot water. Then treated with dilute fertan internally when the water was drained.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Fertan was originally a tannic acid solution.

These days I believe it is phosphoric acid solution.

It is a great metal stabiliser and pre prime wipe for steel before starting fill/prime processes.

I usually treat a tank with a dilute solution inside and out several times.

Ialso need a new bottle. It lasts a while. I probably last bought a litre bottle over 10 years ago.

It's been my go to for decades. It leaves behind no polymer film which can interfere with paint unless coating with enamels and performs very well.

I've tried a variety of others and they may be good in industrial or agricultural applications. But they're messy and have build.
 

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this works well and is easy to get here

 

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Discussion Starter #279
I've so far completed three tanks from the stuff I have here. One really nice one with no filler at all for the Ozdeluxe and two for future projects.

One is the tank above with the weld pulls and the other had less severe dents that were glue pulled.

So ... three down {four actually, I'd already prepared a tank a few years back for the Ozdeluxe .... but this one is better.

Still a few out in the shed to be gone through, but I'll get to them soonish. I like to know my parts are parts and fit to use rather than find out that stuff is unusable [email protected] when I do want it.
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This one for the OzD - which amazingly was undented. I've never had this luxury before. :)

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These not so lucky.

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This one also needs a weld {texta arrow} where I dremelled too much to remove the badge bar. Though this was likely already pulled high as someone had tried to remove it before bogging over it at some point in the distant past. Both sides are dented like this and disturbingly it seems to have been done to lower the area so the badge bars can be filled. Having done this a few times now I can say that there is no reason to lower the area at all - just remove the badge bar, do the cleanup and fill.

Another two waiting for attention.

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And a couple more besides.

Am cleaning up a pile of caps, cap covers and their fixings at the moment.

Gratuitous thingy shot and I'm done.

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You got a gold mine with all those standard tanks Mark!!!

You can post Gratuitous pics anytime you want.
 
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