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Discussion Starter #221 (Edited)
I took the bike for a ride today now that the temperature has returned to sanity levels.

The bike ran absolutely normally.

I did a static timing check on the hall effects before going out in case the plate had moved, but that was fine.

I think the hot fuel from the low jet was vapourising, rather than atomising in the hot carbs. Larger flow from the high jet may have prevented the issue effecting the high end as much.

I can't give this a lot of throttle or revs yet but it really pulls at half throttle or so up to 6000 RPM. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #222
100,000

Things have slowed here a bit lately - mostly weather related.

Am currently rebuilding 2 sets of heads. One for the Ozdeluxe motor, one for Erics motor.

Erics motor is nearly finished with {aside from the heads} just the clutch cover, coolant pump and a few other bits to go. I've timed the TI ignition and set the air gaps. The advancer was assembled backwards when it came to me. Not a problem as it's obvious when initially setting the engine up to time the left cylinder. At this point the 'pip' should face straight down - not straight up.

I also had to helicoil the locating hole for the auto tensioner. I think this had had too short a bolt used at some point.

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Last Sunday I was out in the shed and could smell smoke. Considering our fires not that unusual at the moment. But this got stronger and stronger until I could actually see smoke drifting around in the shed so I went out to take a look. The back yard of the house behind the one two doors down was on fire. I went and knocked the feller 2 doors down up as it seemed to be coming from in, or behind, his shed full of bikes. Instead it was the yard behind his which apparently was overgrown and bone dry. Don't know what started it but between a few of us it was mostly extinguished with little harm done by the time the firies arrived. Don't know what started it.

I made the first oil change on the thingummy motor and found this. The new aftermarket filter bolt I'd fitted was jammed . On closer inspection there is something wrong with it. There appears to be a sleeve inserted into the ends of these bolts to keep the plunger going right to the end. So the oil pressure can get behind it to allow it to do its thing I guess.

Pick the odd one out.

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The bike I'm currently riding clocked yesterday while I was out. Unusually for me I remembered to take a camera ...

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Been playing with timing settings, fuel mixtures and octanes.........

That would be about it for now ....
 

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Mark, have you posted a pic of the whole bike? Thingummy that is. Sent you a PM a while back too!
 

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Discussion Starter #225 (Edited)
Not getting so much shed time just lately - heat is one reason.

But, I've nearly finished with the Ozdeluxe motor and will likely buy the engine paint today as a local shop has a good deal on two cans.

I have also nearly finished with Erics euro engine too but need to pull the clutch again as there is an anomally with the thrust plate being about 5.5 mm too far back for the mushroom to engage. The clutch itself is installed with the correct washers and spacers behind the basket but I think I've missed one in front of it.

I've not actually worked on the last version spring damped clutches before as I generally see early stuff but a look at the GL500 fische shows a washer in front of the basket. I think that's my issue as I don't think I fitted it. The 82 CX500C fische I used doesn't show this washer and the motor was pulled apart years before I ever saw it and was missing a few bits.

I'll sort the mongrel one way or another. :)

Both of these engines have had their seats ground and in Erics case a minor recut to remove shrouding material from the valve area. A true narrow face cut not being possible on the exhaust side as the guides weren't replaced. The Ozdeluxe motor scored new exhaust guides but the intake guides were left alone as they were fine. Seats recut and ground. All heads pressure tested. Also all fitted now.

I've been eyeing my 500C for a bit of a refresh as the frame could do with repainting and I want to go through its engine for a look see and the bike could do with a general light refreshment. Mostly he's actually pretty good. I want to check the engine bearings as I saw a few small coppery flecks in the oil at the last oil change - so the bike was taken out of service. I think I'll build a few more HP into the motor too. The one currently in the test bike hoots so it seems worthwhile. ;)

I fitted a Raesan V4 to the bike I'm riding yesterday. I've been fiddling with Raesan stuff since before the ignitions were ever released. Rays first offering was the 'Raymodule' power supply unit to CDI, which took over the duties of dead stator coils, then his various ignitions followed, improving with each model.

The new unit is the ducks guts and is now a very professional product and highly recommended.

This is a conversion using 12 volt coils which in this instance Ray supplied. I'm impressed. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #226
This post is just to add a few pics of the Raesan V4 installation.

This is at this point temporary as I still need to make permanent coil mounts and extend the wiring to more comfortably reach between the ignition unit and coils. This is due to my location of the ignition unit, not a fault with what Ray supplies. I need to buy a roll of 10 amp blue wire first which I'll likely pick up tomorrow.

This ignition goes with this motor most likely - unless I fit the recipient bike with the V3.

ericlutchraesan 007.JPG ericlutchraesan 006.JPG ericlutchraesan 005.JPG ericlutchraesan 004.JPG

I've picked up 2 cans of aluminium duplicolour engine enamel for the Ozdeluxe motor and will likely paint that next weekend after a final clean.

Nearly finished with Erics EC (euro} engine and that should leave the phreak shed this week.

There WAS a minor debacle with the clutch but that's sorted now.

https://cx500forum.com/forum/technical-help-forum/111333-82-gl-500-cx500c-cx500-ec-euro-clutch-washer-thickness.html

I have the bike I'm riding set up ready to do a head retorque/camchain adjustment/valve clearances tomorrow morning before I go out. The motor has done about 100 miles now.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
This is a test post for the most part and I'm going to insert a picture just to test.

I put the front of Erics motor back together tonight and the clutch is functioning as intended.

I retorqued the heads on the thingummy motor this morning and adjusted the camchain and valve clearances.

While there I checked that the baseline timing for the hall hadn't moved {it hadn't} and changed jumper settings from the A default to curve C

On a plug check while doing this I leaned the right carb about 1/1000th of a turn as it was a little darker than the left and the left was left as was {so many lefts}

After running my errands the plugs were now white.

The change in timing may have been it and/or the fact that I refuelled while out with 91 {87 in USA} where before I was running 95, which darkened the plugs when first put in, leading to adjustments at this time.

I've richened them 1/3 turn each and will recheck tomorrow.

Now a gratuitous test pic.

Here's something I prepared earlier. :)

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Discussion Starter #228
Have made better mounts for the coils that came with the Raesan ignition.

On advice from Ray I turned the right coil through 90 degrees and moved it slightly rearward of the left coil.

This was done to prevent RFI causing missfires and extra sparks.

On riding it after the mods I'm pretty sure the bike had this happening.

It idled well but occasionally hiccupped like it had missed a spark or received an extra one at the wrong time.

At a constant 60 kmh there was a strange sensation like hitting a bird every ten to twenty metres.

I noticed none of these things after modding the coil mounts.

Eric picked up his euro engine this morning so I'll be getting into painting and detailing the Ozdeluxe motor.

Some pics.

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if you are still finding crosstalk between these coils - then a mild steel plate between them should help redirect the magnetic field along the axisi of the bike rather than between the coils - in terms of magnetic field the aluminium is invisible ..
on the bracket of example - you'll also note as wells abeing at 180degrees axially - they were at 90 degrees in the other direction - thats tricky to acheive here - but if needed a steel plate between should do the trick -
see how it goes in the current arrangement.

rayman
 

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Discussion Starter #231
There seems to be no problem now Ray. I've just come back from a failed quest for DR7EA plugs. Had to order them. i think I need to move to a hotter plug.

Reading the ground electrode shows baseline and advance to be correct.

I think I still have an issue with exhaust flow through the mufflers/baffles. It's effecting fuelling on the upper end and the plugs are giving mixed signals.

Aluminium is invisible to RFI? You're the expert here so I'll take your word for it as gospel but some reading I've done suggested either aluminium or copper as shielding.

If the aluminium brackets aren't contributing anything your suggested movement of one of the coils has done the job on its own.
 

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RFI and aluminium work for electrical fields - not for magnetic -
the mode here is : during the dwell you store all the energy into a magnetic field that is around and though the coil,
when turned off the field collapses back into the coil (sort of) to drive the secondary to deliver high voltage hence spark -
the coil next door also sees some of the collapsing magnetic field from its neighbour- and if it sees enough - it too will spark .

in very loose terms ...
of course it can also be influenced by the state of charge of the other coil - so it can appear at certain revs and not others as well - its not unique to these coils by any measure - all TAI coils can do it -
it becomes a function of finding suitable mounting arrangements and orientations / shielding in any multicoil TAI system.

Hence Im keen that when you find a good solution - that should be come a recommended fitment for these coils -
over time we should also get standard fitment on the dynas - but they are designed to mount to a steel system to complete the magnetic loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
My reading supports what you have just written.

I may have got hold of the wrong end of the stick - it seems that aluminium is a good shield against RFI - which is the problem I thought I was experiencing.

You are right - non ferrous is of no use for EMI.

But all the same, I think we've arrived at a solution.

I don't understand how changing the orientation of a coil can alleviate the crossfire.

But I have an experts brain to pick. :)

I have also been wondering about a tin shield between stator and hall to prevent EMI induced stagger.

Feasible?
 

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the problem with where the hall is - is the rotating magnetic fildes from the magnets in the rotor - which are open toward the rear of the engine due to the stator mounting on the rear covers -
as soon as you have a changing magnetic filed and a conductor in it - you get induced voltages and heat - as well as induced currents and hence secondary magnetic fields from those ...

In short - putting a conductive elelment where you propose will short out some of the output from the magnet rotor and get HOT - to not any great benefit -
the best appraoch i could come up with was the bias magnets to minimise the influence of the rotor magnets - but in the CX you sit on top of them-.
most other bikes have timing on one side and rotor / stator on the other side of the engine - or at least the rotor is shaped to put the magnets away from the timing pickups and shield them...
 

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Ray, how heavy a "steel plate" would be needed to prevent crosstalk? Could it be sheet metal?

BTW: The interaction between the secondaries of the 2 coils sounds like a very loosely coupled transformer to my electronics/audio background....
 

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you are correct Bob - it is a loosely coupled transformer in the case. normally the leakage flus would be quite low - but as ignition coils are storing a lot of energy and the core is usually justa rod type core - not a closes loop - then the leakage flux is quite high.

sheet metal would do - you are really trying to contain the leakage flux. -

Rayan
 

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Discussion Starter #238
Having concluded that the mufflers fitted to this bike were never going to let me get this motor dialled in I spent today cleaning up a couple of sportster mufflers I had here and fitting them well enough that the bike could be test ridden.

These are 'export only' mufflers and have two large drill holes put through the centre.

They are probably as loud as the mufflers I took off when you get into the throttle but the bike idles quietly and is quiet at a steady speed.

But .... the best bit is they've unlocked some of the performance in this motor that was missing with the other mufflers. Before it would rev through to the redline but become progressively richer on larger throttle openings at it couldn't flow the gas required.

I'll read my plugs after my test ride later when the bike cools down. Though I richened the mix screws I'm hoping to see slightly lean here now .... so I can slip in larger jets. I'm also going to add the K+N from my 500C.
This ran well before but it is actually obscenely quick for a CX .... and great fun. Should be all the more fun once properly dialled in. :)

I painted the Ozdeluxe motor last night and was going to final assemble and detail today but didn't ... because mufflers.
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I didn't change to HD mufflers for more power but when Eccles was a 650 I had to lean over the bars a bit when accelerating hard to keep the front wheel on the ground, and that with stock carbs & airbox and the weight of the sidecar...
 
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