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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd start a thread so that I can show you this motor I'm about to resurrect .... and some of the general CX stuff that doesn't go into build threads.

This motor

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came as spare when I bought my 500C about 11 years ago. It's been sitting on a shelf ever since. It is a 78 block, which has the same 2045 first four digits of the engine number like every other 78 block or frame have here regardless of source. {I have parts from several different job lots}

Anyhow .... though the crank turns smoothly and there is no evidence of bearing failure I'm hoping that the crank and bearings are good as this is to be a cheapskate build, replacing only those things that really need it - and replacing all of the missing parts from the parts stash.

It will get new rings and chains, but likely good used OEM tensioner parts.Unfortunately, it came with my 500C. I say unfortunately because this individual was a ....... mechanical ...... butcher .... This motor shows evidence of his attempts to something something or something else this motor. My 500C had many horrors when purchased and I couldn't believe he'd actually been riding it.

Anyhow, the first thing I noticed when cleanup started was this.

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Why would anyone do this much damage? Presumably just to remove a collar .... with a cold chisel. And mangled the O ring face. I can fix that, with a dremel, JB weld and maybe a thicker O ring.

Moving on, I then found this

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How does that happen? Subhuman intervention? I'll look at it when I pull it off tomorrow and make a judgement call whether it's usable. If not, I have another and I've a 50/50 chance it has the same sized bearing hole so I can transfer the bearing. I do have bearings, but I'm as tight as the fishes proverbial with them.

Pulled the gearbox and am dismantling, cleaning and checking it now.

And .... back to that. I note it's not cleaning itself.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh, further evidence of top shelf maintenance.

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It had also chewed through not one, but two crank cap bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
That's actually nothing compared to what he'd done to my 500C to avoid replacing the mech seal.

Flex drive cable welded to the back of the camshaft, no coolant pump or impeller on the motor. Hoses from hammered in copper spigots and flex drive running a drill powered pump sitting unsecured in place of the airbox. It failed, the cable broke off of the cam.

And that's just one aspect.

I don't know about his inebriation habits but he's the sort f feller that when you speak with him you seem to hear the guitars from deliverance.

Here's a few pics. I lost most of the pics of this bike, but I had these on the Oz CX forum.

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And now.



And as of early 2021...

207864
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've always had a thing about resurrecting dung.

It's how many of us could afford our vehicles.

Did you see what the thingy and the Ozdeluxe started out as?

And I have yet more dung to resurrect. More dungy, more incomplete. Frames to start on. Random parts to assemble. Bliss.

I'm set for years. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Looking for Mr. Goodbore. A novellette by Judith Phreak.

I put the ball hone through this block today, the surface corrosion has bitten a little deep so I won't be using this one. I even resorted to stone honing it - no dice.

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Took a punt on one I pretty much knew was no good. I wasn't disappointed. Ditto on the stone hone.

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Third time's the charm. I think this is a block I bought from Ray some time back. After ball honing a little surface rust off the bores prove to be beautiful.

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So, having a block with really good bores that will require new main bearings {or at least the front one} to assemble I think I'll upgrade this build to better parts than I'd have used in the other block.

New rod bearings are needed. The old ones haven't failed but show hints of copper on the surface.

I'll be clearcoating the thingys bits tomorrow so I don't know when I'll get back to this motor, but likely Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Nah Bob, this feller was a butcher. The crack in the rear main bearing carrier? Screwdriver marks under it. I'll be binning that carrier. It appears looking at where it is that it may cause an oil gallery to leak and drop oil pressure. I have others and need to fit new bearings anyway.

I came to an impasse earlier tonight with the three viable cranks I have here being BB BB And a few sets of #2 rods. This combo wants a green bearing. Though Silvers sells these I currently have none.

But if I use the set of lightened NOS rods I have these are #1s and I can then use yellow bearings which I have a full set of.

So that, with good bores, good crank and lightened rods means I think I'll build for a little performance, maybe with an eye to another set of Murrays miks for the thingummy - son of thingy. :)

I'm polishing the milling marks out of the rods now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
This feller continued to ride with a bung master cylinder. He just didn't care if the brake didn't work.. When his pump failed he rode without coolant.

Both fork seals were totally blown. The engine leaked oil from every orifice. He'd blind holed some bolts, stripped others. The rear cover was cracked around the inspection housing. Probably because the cover gasket was corrugated cardboard. Check out the silicon 'repair'.

My memory presently fails me, but there were numerous other issues. .... He was riding it with an unsecured standard tank.

This bloke took it to the next level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I spent much of today preparing these rods for use. Aside from cleaning up the rough state they were left in I have corrected a 4.5 gram weight difference and got the balance factor to within .2 of a gram. I will now polish them and then reweigh and make any necessary revisions after.

I sold a hillman hunter engine today to a feller that has been buying odd Hillman bits from me for a while. He happens to own an engineering shop. He has taken three CX blocks and will swao some of the bore liners around so 2 good bores appear in one of the blocks at least. Though he thinks he has a source for the bore material Have to wait and see what he comes up with.

He has an early volkswagen with a 2 cylinder radial engine of his own design and manufacture. Not only does it go, it is on the road and registered. Interesting thing. It might have less cylinders, but it still sounds like a WW1 fighter.



In the meanwhile I dragged out another block which the hone showed to have good bores. So that's 2 I currently have ready to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
About one poofteenth {technical term} of a horsepower due to reduced drag through oil mist

And I've removed the stress risers and generally smoothed them out.

Final polishing is as much about entertainment value from there on, but most of the work is already done anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
cx mellings has a diesel repair sleeve that can be cut in half to do 2 cylinders for the cx if you need i can give you the number or send you a few

i also have boring plate cnc program for the 500 and 650 if you or he wants a set of boring plates
Thanks Murray, I don't know exactly what resources Chris shop has, when he contacts me I'll let him know, but the number would certainly be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Have now found two blocks with good bores and cleaned them up ready for rebuilding and sent another two blocks to a machine shop for some work which I'll outline later. {in case it goes pear shaped}.

I have prepared the crank to be used {you are witnessing the genesis of the thingummy} , conrods etc to go to the crank balancer next week and I'll include the photos I've emailed to the crank machinist here.

I was going to use new IMD piston pins - but went with a good used OEM set as the IBD pins weigh 25 grams more than the OEM. That would negate half of the weight lost on the rods. To me, this is an unacceptable weight disparity from OEM.

All assemblies have been weight matched.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks Murray. I'll discuss this with the balancer. Was thinking a middle of the road approach - 250 grams?
 
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