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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a Rae-San hall effect kit and trying to figure out on how to keep cdi replacement unit safe on the bike. It comes in a pretty raw state and I've been looking for a casing online for cdi replacement unit but its not easy to find one that is just the right size. Too big and it takes up a lot of space.

Has anyone come up with a nice way to keep it out of weather and other elements?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is definitely an option murray : )
I'm sure there has to be a bit more elegant solution to that. Maybe I'll have to figure out on how to build something custom.
 

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Andris - please let us know if/when you figure something out. I'm working on the same thing. We have the wrong tupperware collection. :p

Also wondering where to get a second 8-wire connector to plug into the one already there. Ray-san says they're standard, but maybe only in Oz? I can't find them in my auto parts store. Of course it's straightforward to hook up wires to wires, but I'd like it to be clean.
 

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I chopped the CDI tray out of one of mine last weekend. I'll be making a larger one to fit my Raesan ignition {or any other I might use} and installing it into a foam liner so it can't vibrate or move around.
 

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I chopped the CDI tray out of one of mine last weekend. I'll be making a larger one to fit my Raesan ignition {or any other I might use} and installing it into a foam liner so it can't vibrate or move around.
Make sure that you don't foam in the PC board. The unit will certainly generate heat, and not much is going to get through that thick epoxy.

If/when you make it, please post a picture.
 

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I just found an ABS plastic project box at Radio Shack (their number 270-1806) that looks just about right for the job. Its clear inside dimensions are 5-5/8 X 3-5/8 X 2". It comes with both an aluminum lid and a plastic lid, either one to be attached by four screws into threaded corner posts. Nominal outside dimensions are 6X4X2. I've got the full Rae-San setup that will pretty well fill that volume. Costs $6.88 with tax in Virginia. After I've done some engineering on it, I'll file another report, maybe with pix.

Edit: Disregard. Rats - the 6" dimension is about 1/2-3/4" too long. Box won't fit down into the space available. Close but no seegar. And I can't figure out a way to gracefully shrink a plastic box and its lid. Could probably just cut it straight across, chop out an inch and butt-glue the pieces back together (and I'll try this) but it would be lots cleaner to find something that's the right size to start with. I spent 45 minutes wandering the aisles at Harbor Freight with a tape measure, checking out the dimensions of every plastic parts box in the store, no success.

2nd edit: Managed to cut the RatShack box across, chop out an inch, and it's gluing up in a clamp now using Gorilla glue. Will see how it holds up in the morning. I used a bandsaw with a metal-cutting blade, made pretty clean cuts. I also bought an 8X10" sheet of Lexan at Lowe's and cut it into 4X5 and 2" hunks to possibly fabricate a box from scratch if the RatShack box disintegrates. More to come.
 

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I just found an ABS plastic project box at Radio Shack (their number 270-1806) that looks just about right for the job. Its clear inside dimensions are 5-5/8 X 3-5/8 X 2". It comes with both an aluminum lid and a plastic lid, either one to be attached by four screws into threaded corner posts. Nominal outside dimensions are 6X4X2. I've got the full Rae-San setup that will pretty well fill that volume. Costs $6.88 with tax in Virginia. After I've done some engineering on it, I'll file another report, maybe with pix.

Edit: Disregard. Rats - the 6" dimension is about 1/2-3/4" too long. Box won't fit down into the space available. Close but no seegar. And I can't figure out a way to gracefully shrink a plastic box and its lid. Could probably just cut it straight across, chop out an inch and butt-glue the pieces back together (and I'll try this) but it would be lots cleaner to find something that's the right size to start with. I spent 45 minutes wandering the aisles at Harbor Freight with a tape measure, checking out the dimensions of every plastic parts box in the store, no success.

2nd edit: Managed to cut the RatShack box across, chop out an inch, and it's gluing up in a clamp now using Gorilla glue. Will see how it holds up in the morning. I used a bandsaw with a metal-cutting blade, made pretty clean cuts. I also bought an 8X10" sheet of Lexan at Lowe's and cut it into 4X5 and 2" hunks to possibly fabricate a box from scratch if the RatShack box disintegrates. More to come.
Any progress on the cut-and-glued project box? Also, did you find a modern replica of the 8-pin connector, or are you hooking things up separately, or...?

Thanks much. I'd rather not resort to lexan.

Peter
 

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Cut-and-glue project revisited

I was able to cut an inch out of the Radio Shack box and lid and glue them back together with Gorilla Glue, and things were looking pretty favorable until I placed them in the space occupied by the Rae-San module. When I put my seat back on the bike, I saw that the metal seat pan came into contact with the front edge of the plastic box, and with my weight on it, it would have potentially crushed the leading edge of the box. My seat is non-standard, being an aftermarket solo seat meant for Harley hogs, so I don't know if the original seat would have this problem. I might try cutting the box again to reduce the 2" vertical dimension, but that would have to be a very accurate cut in order for the lid to fit snugly. I was using a small bandsaw with a metal cutting blade, and it doesn't have any kind of rip fence for a guide, although I could probably kludge one up with C-clamps and a board.

At the moment, I'm leaning toward waiting for Rayman to come up with his "factory" solution to this issue.

For the Rae-San, I used individual bullet connectors for the wiring rather than looking for an 8-pin Molex or equivalent.
 

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I'm sure Motomicah could print cases if he had a Raesan to play with!
Already have one modeled, just need the unit to come in to make sure the dimensions are correct and find where the wires come out ;)
 

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I am getting lousier response above 5krpm, and while I don't know whether it's ignition or carburetion, since I have the rae-san sitting here, I'm going to collect connectors and figure out a way to get it in for at least some testing.

Please keep in mind that power electronics wants a bit of cooling. The Rae-san doesn't dissipate a lot of watts (roughly 40W minus however much power goes to the coils), but we'll want to have something that lets some air waft over it while also keeping it dry.

I'm looking forward to seeing Motomicah's printed box!
 

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******* milling machine

This probably belongs better in the "humor" section, but it might give someone some ideas. I was looking for a way to trim 0.4 inch off the top edge of my Radio Shack box, and came up with this poor man's ******* milling machine. The picture is pretty self-explanatory. Unfortunately, that's not a very secure mount for the Dremel, and it slipped a tiny bit on the fourth side. I might be able to true it up with a file or sandpaper.:p

Electrical wiring Auto part Toolroom Machine
 
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