[Rayman]

Guys - had a need to make a bike wiring simplifier / controller for a harley custom chopper that frequents my shed - the vibration on this thing just shakes most things apart-
Had a look at the motogadget m-unit - fell off my chair at the price and unnecessary blue tooth functionality, had a look att he NWT units - and the axel joost - but nothing quite fit the price point and the desire not to use custom controls -

I wanted a general unit that would accept programmable input polarities from standard controls, and provide the control outputs with a few whistles -
breake flashing, indicator programmable time out , headlight low bean modulator, the abiltyi to use the harley button psuh left and right indicator controls - so the ability to latch inputs. Dont need any bluetooth crapbut did decide to add a built in heated grip control - using the existing controls.
Had a look at the resettable fuse option - but it adds more complexity than its worth - so instead - used 30A mostets with two main circuits of master fuse ( eg 2x10A) or you can fuse the indicidual outputs if desired.

so doing a batch of 10 units - target price isthe $US 150 mark - its not as small or pretty as a motogadget - but it hits the spot for practicailty -
initial model - havent got the boards back yet. blue is the screw terminal blocks

Oh unit has a power input so no main relay switching needed - draws zero at standby until power applied to the On terminal.
Serial terminal setup shown --set once and forget - but shows the options.
As it uses and arduino Nano as the core - planning to just make the code available for those who want to add features of there own.

Do we have any interest ?
Rayman

 

[Rayman]

addinjg the quick and unclean feature comparison

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Not in the market at the moment, but it looks like a good product.

 

[krugerjq]

How much would something like this cost?

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[richnct]

His first post says target price is $150 US

 

[Rayman]

was drawing an example minimal wiring diagram. Not ready to pop the web page up yet until testing complete, but will pop it here for info. dash and heated grips ( just come off the spare output) not shown for simplicity.

 

[Rayman]

prototype cases from mouser arrived yesterday. have ordered some switches / lights etc so I can do a breadboard mock up of a bike for illustration / test purposes.
Pcbs left the china factory last night.
Tuned headlight modulation to the legal requirement of 200 - 280 flash/min ( 4hz nominal) and added on off control via high beam switch - ( low - high- low) within 1s toggles modulation on / off if enabled in the settings.

Rayman

 

[Rayman]

changed the rate of modulation adjustment to be the depth of modulation - as the rate has to be a nominal 4Hz to be leagal - varying the rate didnt make sense - so instead the depth ofthe dimming can be altered from 20 - 100% - - always goes up to 100% bightness - but how far down -
for a normal filament lamp- 50-60% should be more than enough. With LED headlights - a lot of them will attempt to comensate - so the upper range of 100% is in there for now to cover them.

Rayman

 

[Rayman]

adding a mode that can use two buttons only on each side - for those custom builds that don't want to use the stock controls - something like

	Short press < 1s	Long Press 1s - 3s	Extra long 4s+
Left upper	High / low beam toggle	Toggle modulation on / off
Left lower	Left indicator	Horn
Right upper	Heater up	Heater on / off	Lights on / off
Right lower	Right indicator	Start	Kill / OFF

will add a wiring diagram for it tonight - really just a couple less wires to the handlebars.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

How do you turn the heater down?

 

[Rayman]

depends on the number of steps - if you had 5 steps set - and were in the middle - one - if you wanted to go to the 1st step - a number of short presses 3 -> 4 ->5 -> 1 ( ie 3 short press). It generally takes minutes for the heat change to be noticeable.
A button could be mapped to down - could do up short / down long if you like - depends on preference -
could go zero and up a couple -
its only software -...

	Short press < 1s	Long Press 1s - 3s	Extra long 4s+
Left upper	High / low beam toggle	Toggle modulation on / off
Left lower	Left indicator	Horn
Right upper	Heater up	Heater down or go to zero	Lights on / off
Right lower	Right indicator	Start	Kill / OFF

 

[TecnoMal]

Guys - had a need to make a bike wiring simplifier / controller for a harley custom chopper that frequents my shed - the vibration on this thing just shakes most things apart-
Had a look at the motogadget m-unit - fell off my chair at the price and unnecessary blue tooth functionality, had a look att he NWT units - and the axel joost - but nothing quite fit the price point and the desire not to use custom controls -

I wanted a general unit that would accept programmable input polarities from standard controls, and provide the control outputs with a few whistles -
breake flashing, indicator programmable time out , headlight low bean modulator, the abiltyi to use the harley button psuh left and right indicator controls - so the ability to latch inputs. Dont need any bluetooth crapbut did decide to add a built in heated grip control - using the existing controls.
Had a look at the resettable fuse option - but it adds more complexity than its worth - so instead - used 30A mostets with two main circuits of master fuse ( eg 2x10A) or you can fuse the indicidual outputs if desired.

so doing a batch of 10 units - target price isthe $US 150 mark - its not as small or pretty as a motogadget - but it hits the spot for practicailty -
initial model - havent got the boards back yet. blue is the screw terminal blocks

Oh unit has a power input so no main relay switching needed - draws zero at standby until power applied to the On terminal.
Serial terminal setup shown --set once and forget - but shows the options.
As it uses and arduino Nano as the core - planning to just make the code available for those who want to add features of there own.

View attachment 215065 View attachment 215066
Do we have any interest ?
Rayman

Hi Ray,

I'd be interested in fitting one of these to my bike over the winter, would you ship to the UK.
Also would it be possible to configure it to use the heated grip output as a soft start for the cooling fan instead?

Cheers, Mal.

 

[Rayman]

showing setup using upper / lower buttons instead of standard controls.

 

[Rayman]

and for techno mal -
no problem doing what you ask - just a case of do you lose the interlock or the light switch wire - in most cases it would be easiest to lose the light switch wire and just select the lights on with powe on - as thats generally the requirment these days anyway - so thats what Ive shown.
So did you want manual speed control of the fan link the grips? I assume that you want thermo switch to trigger and turn fan on to the set level. ?

 

[TecnoMal]

and for techno mal -
no problem doing what you ask - just a case of do you lose the interlock or the light switch wire - in most cases it would be easiest to lose the light switch wire and just select the lights on with powe on - as thats generally the requirment these days anyway - so thats what Ive shown.
So did you want manual speed control of the fan link the grips? I assume that you want thermo switch to trigger and turn fan on to the set level. ?



View attachment 215201

Yeah, I think I'd do it that way and have the lights on with power.
And yes thermo switch to activate the fan output at preset speed, or maybe a short ramp up to full speed to act as a soft start if possible.

Looks good, let me know when they're available and a price for shipping to England please Ray

 

[reclinedrelic]

A long press of 4 seconds or more for kill/off would not be much use if throttle stuck open while riding. Yes, one could reach for the key but the kill switch on the hand controls is the easiest.

 

[Rayman]

agreed but whats more annoying - accidentally activating the kill switch if you do a press longer than a second ?
safest approach is the stock controls for a reason - you could also put the clutch in -while you hold in the kill switch ....

all a compromise if using just minimal buttons -

 

[reclinedrelic]

You could switch the kill to a short press, indicator to a long press and start to an extra long press. Also shift horn to a short press and left indicator to a long press to be consistent from side to side.

 

[Rayman]

I'm going to put a mapping table in the code that maps short, long and extra long presses to the various functions and stick in in the global header file - while I could make the functions fully mappable in the configuration screen - it will just make the software more obscure for the casual modifier - so its simpler to pop it into an easily modified table, and just make it a press the compiler and download button operation.

I'm restructuring the quick and dirty software into something cleaner and easy for modifiaction / maintenance for the casual software modder.
separating input functions, logic between triggers and states and output operations.

Im sure that it will end up with probably only 2 or 3 real configurations that the 4 button version will need and they can then be ordered pre-loaded.

 

[Rayman]

first lot of boards arrived yesterday-
should have first unit assembled tonight -
have restructured most of the software elements into input -> logic -> output modules, so any features get implented in the logic part -
have done the construction of the test bed / benchtop bike that will be used for testing / demonstration videos, bit of wiring to finish on this.

progressing - expect to have something to show by the end of the weekend
Rayman