[CARTER]

I noticed oil spot and saw the front of my motor is leaking oil from somewhere. Looking for the leak I noticed the tachometer cable was not hooked up at all (the tach has never worked) and was halfway in the hole it belongs sitting loosely. I can barely see up in there. I'm assuming that if the cable is not mounted properly it will leak oil correct. I pulled softly and it just pulled right out. I unloosened a phillips screw, shoved the tach cable end back in the hole it belongs on the engine, tightened the screw back and nothing would hold the tach cable in. Question is: Firstly, is there suppused to be an o ring on the cable end, mine doesn't have any o ring. Secondly, how does the tach cable attach correctly to the engine? I don't care as much about my tach working or not I just want to properly mount the cable so there will be no leakage (if that is causing the oil spots). Thirdly, while I'm asking, Is it a big job (on a cx650c)to move the radiator out of the way in case I need to mess with the front of the block to find the leak if that is not it? Thanks guys, -carter

 

[NateDawg]

There is a ridge or gap around the part of the cable that goes into the engine. there is a bolt or screw that isn't the easiest to get to that goes into that gap and holds that piece in there. I have heard of people having oil leak from there.

 

[Blindstitch]

The seals for the tach area are nla but every once in a while they pop up. But it's not worth the trouble to fix them. Instead clean the area as well as you can and get a q-tip and smear black rtv silicone on it and use that to seal the area between the rubber and the wall.



It is possible or has been noted that the worm gear area on a few bikes can get eaten out and make a mess of that.



If for some reason the tach cable wont hold in place and becomes useless it would be best to cap off the area and remove the cable. You could probably fit a rubber cork in there and seal it up. One guy even build a special blocking off cap.



Taking the radiator off will be no problem. Just a few hoses and bolts.

 

[Blindstitch]

 

[CARTER]

Thanks, I thought the screw pinched the outside rim and squeezed the cable to keep in in. I need to take the screw completely out before the cable end will even completely enter the hole. Even when it does it probably needs to match the grove of the slot on the spinning cable to the part on the engine right? Thanks

 

[Blindstitch]

Just back the screw out. Stock was a philips screw where as many people but a hex bolt there. Just unscrew it all the way or until you can push the cable in and then tighten things up.

 

[thackney]

Just rotate the cable to get the end mated to the drive.

 

[crashoverride]

I have a 84 tv500c and it is leaking oil from the tach drive. I bought the oil seal but it does not appear to be located under the tach cable, it must be under the valve cover. Are there any options to seal off the tach on the engine so it will not leak and just not have a tacho?





Crash

 

[oiftanker]

i took a metal valve stem cap and jb weld...

 

[Sniperdoc]

Good grief, I am trying to change the tach cable right now. I got the radiator off. Three bolts, and three hoses and it was off. The screw holding the tach cable in is behind the fan! I have no fan puller and can't get a good purchase on the screw. Uggh!

 

[ramprat06]

I have a 84 tv500c and it is leaking oil from the tach drive. I bought the oil seal but it does not appear to be located under the tach cable, it must be under the valve cover. Are there any options to seal off the tach on the engine so it will not leak and just not have a tacho?





Crash

What is a 84 tv500c???

 

[Sniperdoc]

Here is what I came up with to get the tachometer screw out without removing the fan. I went in from behind the shroud and rotated the fan enough for me to see what I was doing. It was tough putting sealant around the top of the installed cable with my finger, though.

 

[jacesmith22]

Does anybody know what size and length of screw holds the tach cable in?

 

[Steve1]

JIS screw (5X20). Go with an Allen head bolt from the other side of the holder and you can get to it by removing just the fuel tank and seat.#16 in link.https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2264f870023420a2f8fa/camshaft

 

[Sidecar Bob]

^ He means JIS (the superior crosspoint screw & driver standard that the Japanese use that is NOT compatible with Philips screwdrivers but works marvellously when you have the correct JIS drivers).

BTW: The information Steve linked to can be found on the website of any North American Honda bike dealer.

And welcome to the forum. Please add your bike's model and model year to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike has had about 4 decades of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

 

[Steve1]

^ He means JIS (the superior crosspoint screw & driver standard that the Japanese use that is NOT compatible with Philips screwdrivers but works marvellously when you have the correct JIS drivers).

BTW: The information Steve linked to can be found on the website of any North American Honda bike dealer.

And welcome to the forum. Please add your bike's model and model year to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike has had about 4 decades of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

I fixed it Bob,thanks.