[Willamj79cx500c]

Hey everyone new to the forum here. I recently got my 79 cx500 deluxe back up and running after a mikuni carb swap and ignition coil replacement. Very shortly afterward my starter clutch took a crap. My question is that with 35k miles on the bike and having a starter clutch malfunction. Should I do a quadruple bypass or just fix my starter clutch?

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Hey everyone new to the forum here. I recently got my 79 cx500 deluxe back up and running after a mikuni carb swap and ignition coil replacement. Very shortly afterward my starter clutch took a crap. My question is that with 35k miles on the bike and having a starter clutch malfunction. Should I do a quadruple bypass or just fix my starter clutch?

If it is worth it to do the bypass can someone help me with links to parts.

 

[reclinedrelic]

Have you checked how close the cam chain is to the end of its useful life? Old Cam Chain Inspection - Honda CX and GL Wiki

Have there been any problems with the stator?

You will be able to better determine these things once the engine is opened.

By the way, when removing the rear cover, keep pushing in on the shift shaft. If you don't the shift shaft spring will be stretched.

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Thank you for that link it will definitely be helpful tomorrow when I get to work (I leave my bike at the auto mechanic shop where I work) never had an issue with my stator that I can tell. My battery charges perfectly and had no problems with ignition other than a bad right side ignition coil. I would prefer to have all the parts necessary for the repair and any maintenance needed while I’m in there before I drop my engine. So that information about checking the chain will be nice.
If you have any more tips please feel free to share them with me.

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Have you checked how close the cam chain is to the end of its useful life? Old Cam Chain Inspection - Honda CX and GL Wiki

Have there been any problems with the stator?

You will be able to better determine these things once the engine is opened.

By the way, when removing the rear cover, keep pushing in on the shift shaft. If you don't the shift shaft spring will be stretched.

One quick question though. When you say push in on the shift shaft. Do you mean inward towards the case?

 

[nippongreen]

Yes,push inwards towards the case.
Otherwise the spring will stretch beyond repair and they are basically unobtainable :-(

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

One quick question though. When you say push in on the shift shaft. Do you mean inward towards the case?

Opposite the direction the cover is moving. You want the shaft to stay with the engine.
Somewhere around here is a series of resistance tests to be made on the stator. It won't tell you it's good, but can give a heads up if it's starting to fail.

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Yes,push inwards towards the case.
Otherwise the spring will stretch beyond repair and they are basically unobtainable :-(

Good to know!! This was my very first vehicle and it has handled some pretty wild rides. No matter what happens in my life I will do anything to keep her.

 

[nolimitz]

stator test

 

[johnste1960]

Hi, Here is my two cents:

If I were you, If my plan was to keep the bike for awhile, I would take care of 1) starter clutch, 2) replace stator, 3) measure cam chain and replace if out of spec or close to spec limit, 4) replace cam chain tensioners, 5) adjust the tension on the oil pump chain 6) replace the water pump seal 7) replace any O-rings that are part of the repair process as they will be flat as a pancake and stiff. The biggest part cost will be Stator and timing chain.
While I have more experience with CXturbos, i make this recommendation for the main reason is the fact that your bike milage appears to be approaching the threshold level for these parts. I bought two turbos from a guy (father / son turbo) with around 19000 miles. Within 100 miles of me riding one bike, The stator popped on one bike. Within 150 miles of riding the second bike, that stator popped also. These things fail like clockwork between 13000-20000 miles for the turbos, and from what I am told, about twice that (30000 - 40000 miles) on non turbo CX bikes.

The main reason these services were combined (both back in the day and today) is due to the amount of labor involved to take the engine out and break it down to the area of the repair. This is pretty much a true philosophy on any motor vehicle past and present being maintained.
Note that these are very reliable bikes with a few known issues (stator, water pump seal and maybe a few others) The other parts were typically relaced while in there as their cost was very inexpensive (although in some cases this has changed due to part availability). So, If you take care of these issues now, you should be good to go in this area for the duration you own your bike. Your bike milage is very close to the suspected failure point of these items, so unless you know that these items have been addressed previously, It would be a good idea to address them now. When you get the bike open and inspect these areas, The question of doing or not doing could be answered for you.
If you do not know the history, An inspection as you dive into it may reveal that these have been replaced already.

1) If you don't do your own repairs and hire this kind of stuff out, then I would do these items while you have teh engine apart. You will be money ahead in the long run. If you do your own work on your bike and don't mind pulling motors out then just fix the starter clutch and use the if its not broke don't fix it approach.
2) What are your plans for the bike? If you plan to keep it for awhile, I would take care of these now. If you are using it for a short term before moving on to a different bike, then you might want to chance it. Keep in mind that doing these repairs would likely increase the sales cost if you plan on selling t after a while, keep all receipts and proof that the work was done.

Good luck with your decision. I know it sucks, I had the same question when I had to address this on my bikes. \

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Hi, Here is my two cents:

If I were you, If my plan was to keep the bike for awhile, I would take care of 1) starter clutch, 2) replace stator, 3) measure cam chain and replace if out of spec or close to spec limit, 4) replace cam chain tensioners, 5) adjust the tension on the oil pump chain 6) replace the water pump seal 7) replace any O-rings that are part of the repair process as they will be flat as a pancake and stiff. The biggest part cost will be Stator and timing chain.
While I have more experience with CXturbos, i make this recommendation for the main reason is the fact that your bike milage appears to be approaching the threshold level for these parts. I bought two turbos from a guy (father / son turbo) with around 19000 miles. Within 100 miles of me riding one bike, The stator popped on one bike. Within 150 miles of riding the second bike, that stator popped also. These things fail like clockwork between 13000-20000 miles for the turbos, and from what I am told, about twice that (30000 - 40000 miles) on non turbo CX bikes.

The main reason these services were combined (both back in the day and today) is due to the amount of labor involved to take the engine out and break it down to the area of the repair. This is pretty much a true philosophy on any motor vehicle past and present being maintained.
Note that these are very reliable bikes with a few known issues (stator, water pump seal and maybe a few others) The other parts were typically relaced while in there as their cost was very inexpensive (although in some cases this has changed due to part availability). So, If you take care of these issues now, you should be good to go in this area for the duration you own your bike. Your bike milage is very close to the suspected failure point of these items, so unless you know that these items have been addressed previously, It would be a good idea to address them now. When you get the bike open and inspect these areas, The question of doing or not doing could be answered for you.
If you do not know the history, An inspection as you dive into it may reveal that these have been replaced already.

1) If you don't do your own repairs and hire this kind of stuff out, then I would do these items while you have teh engine apart. You will be money ahead in the long run. If you do your own work on your bike and don't mind pulling motors out then just fix the starter clutch and use the if its not broke don't fix it approach.
2) What are your plans for the bike? If you plan to keep it for awhile, I would take care of these now. If you are using it for a short term before moving on to a different bike, then you might want to chance it. Keep in mind that doing these repairs would likely increase the sales cost if you plan on selling t after a while, keep all receipts and proof that the work was done.

Good luck with your decision. I know it sucks, I had the same question when I had to address this on my bikes. \

This being said. I suppose I should just treat it like another Honda v6 timing belt job. If I’m changing the belt just do the water pump and everything as well. Water pump and idler pulleys being stator, mech seal, and anything else that could potentially be going out.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

What they said ^^^^^ (especially Johnste)

The first thing to do is download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and read through the sections on the work you are planning to do.
Note that while aftermarket shop manuals are pretty much necessary for people without factory training to work on a lot of makes & models of bike the FSMs for the CX/GL500/650 family of bikes are so well written & laid out that the FSM is really the only book you need and and even the best aftermarket books are secondary references at best.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to go through all of the service procedures in the FSM, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because (as I'm sure you already know) rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel. You might get away with older tires on a car but old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip when you lean the bike into a corner on a cool or wet road. Manufacturers of rubber brake lines recommend replacing them every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so if your bike still has the original rubber brake line I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Does anyone know a good source for timing chain, glides, and tensioner?

 

[Willamj79cx500c]

Have you checked how close the cam chain is to the end of its useful life? Old Cam Chain Inspection - Honda CX and GL Wiki

Have there been any problems with the stator?

You will be able to better determine these things once the engine is opened.

By the way, when removing the rear cover, keep pushing in on the shift shaft. If you don't the shift shaft spring will be stretched.

I finally found a good dental mirror in my shop. I checked my chain life and according to the manual you sent the link for I would say it’s in rather good shape possibly only half the life used up. I even followed procedure to adjust the tension before hand. Just to make sure I was getting an accurate measurement. I will check the condition of my stator next with a voltmeter. But I’m rather confident in the cam chain condition.(I will still try and source a new chain and glide set just in case I’m wrong).

 

[johnste1960]

Does anyone know a good source for timing chain, glides, and tensioner?

I would check with David Silver Spares. At one time, there was a 10% discount to forum members and I thought there was a code floating around here for that, Maybe someone could confirm if this was still the case and point to the code.

 

[nolimitz]

I would check with David Silver Spares. At one time, there was a 10% discount to forum members and I thought there was a code floating around here for that, Maybe someone could confirm if this was still the case and point to the code.

That would be news to me?

 

[Sidecar Bob]

I've never heard of it either.

 

[PDC-500B]

David Silver Spares doesn't give any discounts on their listed prices, and never has done, and I've been buying spares from DSS for well over 30 years...

 

[richnct]

Discounthondaparts
See thread above. 10%