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shaft should push back far enough to pull it forward again to engage with the engines output shaft.

Why yours won't move back I can't say.

When I remove a motor I disconnect the shaft and push it back.

When refitting I pull it forward with a long allen key held in a pair of vice grips slipped into the retention bolt hole.

It is possible to push the shaft too far back to the point it disengages with the final drive . At this point it will normally rotate so that you can find the mesh and pull the shaft forward.

It's just being stubborn.
 
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There is no reason to pull either engine or final drive. the shaft should push back.

Rotate the shaft and/or rear wheel until the splines align. It will push back.
 

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All 500 final drives are the same.

Maybe the GL shaft is different.

I've done many this way.

Install engine THEN pull shaft forward and engage to output shaft.

He shouldn't have to do anything other than manipulate it back and then forward.
 

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A 6 mm stud roller will take that stud out easily and quickly.

What issues are you having fitting the brake pedal ...... hooking up the spring?
 
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That extractor should work.

I use this type. I don't use a rattle gun - I don't own one. I just use a ratchet.

Cylinder Gas Font Gadget Rectangle


Do you mean that the pedal shaft slides across when you try to fit the pedal?

If you install the pinch bolt from the wrong side and place a thin piece of steel in the pinch gap the bolt will open the spline area when tightened. This will help the pedal go on easier.
 
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