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1979 CX500C
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Automotive tire Finger Bumper Nail Bicycle part

Just got done mounting the engine and it went as silky smooth as everything else I've tried to fix in this project. 2 things:

I found that I didn't line up the driveshaft and its stuck right on the outside. I thought there was a way to push it back but I can't seem to move it, I can sort of spin the tire. Any suggestions besides take the engine back off?

Looking through the forums it seems like it's usually the opposite issue for people, so I apologize if this has already been covered.

My other casualty was the cap for my left spark plug came off. The wire was flush with the sleeve when it pulled out, that means I gotta replace the wire, right? I tried sticking it back on for now, gonna see if it sparks after I get a battery on it, but any guides for getting them connected would be much appreciated.
 

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shaft should push back far enough to pull it forward again to engage with the engines output shaft.

Why yours won't move back I can't say.

When I remove a motor I disconnect the shaft and push it back.

When refitting I pull it forward with a long allen key held in a pair of vice grips slipped into the retention bolt hole.

It is possible to push the shaft too far back to the point it disengages with the final drive . At this point it will normally rotate so that you can find the mesh and pull the shaft forward.

It's just being stubborn.
 
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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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If the plug cap separated from the wire, just inspect/trim the end of the wire and screw it back on.
 
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Pull off the rear wheel and final drive. Then the drive shaft is much easier to properly mount to the engine. Then reinstall the rear wheel and final drive.

This is far easier than pulling the engine off again.
 

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There is no reason to pull either engine or final drive. the shaft should push back.

Rotate the shaft and/or rear wheel until the splines align. It will push back.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Maybe the CX500 is different but on my GL500 and on Eccles (GL500 shaft & swingarm, CX500 final drive) I've never been able to get the shaft to push in far enough for that. I've always had to get the engine's final shaft started into the u-joint before I move the engine fully into place.
 

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All 500 final drives are the same.

Maybe the GL shaft is different.

I've done many this way.

Install engine THEN pull shaft forward and engage to output shaft.

He shouldn't have to do anything other than manipulate it back and then forward.
 

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1979 CX500C
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I managed to connect the drive shaft bolt so I think I'm all set with my primary concern! Thank you everyone for the support in confidence in my wiggling to get that done.

Unfortunately however:
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire

2 step forwards and one step back. Just snapped one of these studs. I would like to formally disclose now that I'm really not that smart, I make bad decisions, this is the third righty loosy I'll have to have fixed in this build and I have a machine shop. Might still try to start it first though.

3 new concerns:
1) Clutch seems to be sticking (checked forum, will try steps after carbs)

2) Can't shift to neutral

3) Mounting rear break pedal seems to be trickt

(will separate into separate posts if I can't find info after carb install, just posting related operation details)

Other than that, gonna forget about her till next weekend.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Automotive parking light Vehicle
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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We all break bolts and strip threads at some time or other. Don't sweat it.
 

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A 6 mm stud roller will take that stud out easily and quickly.

What issues are you having fitting the brake pedal ...... hooking up the spring?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A 6 mm stud roller will take that stud out easily and quickly.

What issues are you having fitting the brake pedal ...... hooking up the spring?
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance -Performance Tool Stud Extractor (Store page)

Something like this? can I use a breaker bar instead of an impact to loosen?

When Installing the brake, the shaft it slides onto retracts back, I got around this by using a small screwdriver to hold the shaft from the back, then wiggled it through the bolt hole to line it up. After doing this however I noticed the brake pedal compresses too far.

It looks as though I'll need to keep the shaft turned down while keeping it from sliding back while I slide the brake pedal back on.
 

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That extractor should work.

I use this type. I don't use a rattle gun - I don't own one. I just use a ratchet.

Cylinder Gas Font Gadget Rectangle


Do you mean that the pedal shaft slides across when you try to fit the pedal?

If you install the pinch bolt from the wrong side and place a thin piece of steel in the pinch gap the bolt will open the spline area when tightened. This will help the pedal go on easier.
 
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