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From what I understand your problem is with the CDI box. If so, I would use the Ignitec. It’s just plug and play. Installing the Rae-san w/o removing the engine rear cover still leaves you relying on a less-than-new stator. And it’s no picnic to install even with the bottle out. Doable, but cumbersome. I’d go Ignitec then consider Rae-San if and when the stator or a pick-up coil goes bad. The RS will eliminate the need for the pickup coils, but it seems that yours are now working. Old, but that does not necessarily mean that they will fail any time soon. My guess is that there are many factors besides age that cause them to fail. Ignitec has had lots of satisfied users over the years who are using the old pickups. Plus the Rae-San technology hasn’t been around long enough to establish long-term reliability and the units have been known to fail.
 

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RVP3: Read the first page of the thread again (particularly post #6) where he says that a couple of the windings are no good.

MrFarenheit:
Welcome to the forum. Please add your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered) to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike has had 4 decades of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

The best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.

BTW: The man who invented the first accurate thermometer (and the temperature scale named after him) was named Fahrenheit...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Bob,

Thank you for all of the great advice and I will make sure to edit my settings.

Firstly, The very first thing I did when buying this was to download the repair manual, I printed out the wiring diagram and color coded everything with colored pencils and it is hanging up in my garage. This isn't my first rodeo into repairing a vehicle. Just my first motorcycle attempt. So things like stators and coils and carborators are very foreign to me.

Both tires have been replaced, I had not thought about the brake line. I will take your advice on that. The shocks will be replaced as soon as I can get it running.

Most of the customization is in the paint on the vehicle, so I'm not worried about the performance being altered much.

P.S. I have used this user name over multiple platforms over many years and you are the first person to point out the spelling. It wasn't inspired by the inventor of the thermometer it was the song "Don't stop me now" - R.I.P. Freddie
 

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When you downloaded the manual did you get the Honda Common Service Manual? It contains stuff that isn't model specific but is still important.

The colour wiring drawings from the Clymer manuals are available on the Wiki too. While you're there get the Honda Wiring Color Codes chart too.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have the official shop manual for models 78 - 82 all with the addendum for other models in the back.

Besides possibly needing to add the ignitech or rae san ignition, or just a new stator, I am pretty much done with wiring. everything else works like a charm. I just have to make a box for relocating the "electrics" to go where the H pipe was. I have to make a license plate/brake light holder.

I guess I lied a bit when I said I didn't change anything. I didn't think about the air pods and exhaust.

I added pics on my profile but the one I set for the profile pic doesn't seem to want to come up. I did the whole 200x200 thing and it doesn't show up for me.
 

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The OP has verified a bad stator. Changing the timing won’t fix it.
Yep! Just checking the timing thing. There could be multiple things wrong. It should never spit fuel out the carbs while cranking unless cam timing is off or a valve got bent. I was wondering if the cam jumped due to a slack chain and he put it back in the timing it was removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I've looked into the carbs spitting fuel on here and I saw multiple people saying that carb problems they had affected it as well. It doesn't make sense to me but I have seen stranger things. Since I know I have a bad stator I'm gonna start there, I don't know much about them but it sounds like they affect the timing and could possibly cause spitting fuel as well.
 

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It should never spit fuel out the carbs while cranking
Perhaps NEVER is strong language. lol
Maybe if the stator is causing the cylinder to fire off time, it could blow back. I agree, I have seen funny things that didn't make sense in the past.
 
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