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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

I bought my 1980 deluxe CX500 in the fall hoping to make a cafe racer.

I tried to start it initially and it started with full choke on and as soon as I knew it would run. I decided to start removing parts and get air pods on it. after putting pods on it, it would back fire very loud and not even try to run. I changed the jets out for 90"s and 120's. This didn't seem to change anything. I checked the tappets at this point and they needed light adjustment. still nothing.

I knew I would eventually be pulling the motor off the frame to paint it so I decided to just pull the motor off and check the timing chain and do a double or triple bypass. I found that the chain was rubbing the case because of no proper adjustment, I replaced the chain (I adjusted the tensioner at this time) just to be sure as well as the cam seals. I set the tappets, put the engine back in the frame. Changed the exhaust to one that is less restrictive.

Besides a brief moment of hope when the engine seemed to want to start (about 5 to 10 seconds of putting). I seem to be getting about the same issues. it did seem to be firing a little at first but now just backfiring on one cylinder, the right cylinder doesn't seem to be firing. I wasn't sure how to set the carbs at default so I have been changing the idle setting, and pilot screw a little just to see if any change in that would affect the backfiring. I havn't touched the carb sync setting at all yet. Every now and then I seem to see gas spraying out of the carbs. I have looked into similar problems people are having with that but what I have seen was that people suggest the tappets for timing and carb issues. I have double, triple, 10-ple checked the tappets so I am pretty confident that isn't the issue. The seals around the intake manifolds are brand new. When putting the jets in the carbs I cleaned them out and replaced various parts. (Air shut off valve on one side) Besides messing with carb settings while turning the engine over I don't know what else to do. I know this is not the right way to go about it but I know nearly nothing when it comes to diagnosing carburetors.

I tried to be as detailed as I could.
 

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I have not done this! Thank you kind sir. I'll check that off tonight.
I’m surprised you haven’t done this yet since you already pulled the motor to do the triple bypass. The stator is a major part of the triple bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I feel like an idiot but the engine seemed to want to start before tearing it apart so i assumed it was fine. Now my worst nightmare has come true and I found out a couple of coils are bad on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did learn that I could just replace the cdi unit with an ignitech to remedy the problem since 9/5 and 9/8 are the problem coils. Does anyone have any suggestions here. it would save me pulling the motor apart at aproximatly the same cost of a stator... what are the chances of the other parts of the stator failing soon?
 

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With the Rae-san I also wouldn't have to remove the engine? Seems like they have a lot of different kits for various purposes.
The inventor/Rae-San is forum member Rayman. It’s regarded as a high quality system and his customer service is second to none. Hopefully others of more knowledge chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just read the manual. Seems like I can change it out with the engine in. just a little work involved with it in the bike if I go for the full kit. I'll contact him and his team if he has one to see just what I should go with. Thank you.
 

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I've installed a couple of raesans without removing the motor now {one yesterday}The coolant bottle makes it a pain but if you unbolt it it can be moved around a bit behind the motor to give access. {I couldn't actually get it out}. Not fun, but still easier than removing the engine.

And Rays new Version 4 ignition is the dogs danglies.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm relocating my coolant bottle anyways so I had left that out. Sounds like it is very possible. I just need to pick the unit now. I do have a brand new gasket on the rear cover there. Will I need to replace that after having it torqued down?
 

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